[Dakotalight]

Whirlpool furnace
NUGK050AF02

Part
192-321040-10661
24v coil relay.
HQ611891EX

The relay needs replaced. The reset button in the center of it is up. If I press and hold down the reset button the furnace will fire up. I can’t find this part anywhere. Is there a new part that replaces this one?

Pole X & Y 60HZ
12FLA 60LRA 125V
6FLA 35LRA 250V
POLE Y
125VA 125/250V 60HZ

Could.it be replaced with a 2 pole general relay? If so how would it be wired?

Thank you for your time.

 

[roughneck]

What reset button? Post a photo of the existing relay.

 

[Dakotalight]

Photo of relay

 

[Dakotalight]

In this photo it’s still wired in the furnace. I don’t know if you can see it but the 3rd pole on the left is jumped to the first pole on the left. So could this be replaced with a 2 pole? Just put pole 1 and 7 together since it’s jumped anyhow? Respectively put 3 and 9 together.

Poles are
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
However 2, 5, 8 are not there/ not used.

Coils are in the middle left top and bottom.

 

[surferdude2]

You need to measure the voltage on the 24 volt coil. The relay may be good and some safety switch is keeping it from getting voltage. Holding the relay closed manually is risky.

 

[surferdude2]

If the relay turns out to be defective, you can replace it with the old standard Honeywell R8222D1014 which will have all the terminals, including those missing on your relay. You'll have to sort out the connections since the coil terminals are located differently... other than that, it's a good replacement.

 

[Dakotalight]

Yes I get 24 Volts on the left side of the relay.

Magnetic Relay, AC Switching, 24 Coil Volts, DPDT, 3/4 HP
Item # 2E682 Mfr. Model # R8222D1014 Catalog Page # 3035 UNSPSC # 39121515

Is a DPDT = 2 pole, double throw relay.
The old one is a 3 pole and I don't know if it's a single or double throw?

R8222D1014 Poles

1 2 3
4 5 6
Coil Coil

I don't use 2 and 5.

1, 3 and 4, 6 I could wire equal to the old relay.

I have wires to 7, 9 on the old relay. Where 7 is jumped to 1.

If 7 is jumped to 1 is it safe to say I can just connect the wire that went to 7 to 1 on the new relay. Also connecting old wire 9 to pole 3. Keeping in mind on the old relay pole 3 and 9 are not jumped.

Pole 9 connects to another relay that is a Double Pole. However pole 3 goes to maybe the inducer. Maybe I just need to buy a DP and SP and combine them? And jump the coils?

I don't understand why I can't find a 3P relay.


So:

1 &7 Connect = Black (both)
2 Not used
3 &9 Connect = Black (both)
4 Connect Same = Red
5 Not used
6 Connect Same = Red
Coil Left connect with old bottom = Black
Coil Right connect with old Top = White

3 & 9 are not jumped and go 2 different locations.
9 goes to another relay
3 goes to the inducer connector or some connector

I will post some pics of both relays but it's hard to make out the wiring.

 

[surferdude2]

I found the relay finally... it's a 3 pole... so the Honeywell number I gave you won't work.

I don't know about this source... check it out yourself to see if it's what you need... looks like it is. It's sold through e-bay.
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3 pole relay
*
*

 

[Dakotalight]

Pictures of both relays in furnace. The wiring is hard to make out.

The bottom right of bottom relay pole 9 black wire goes to top relay. The top right of bottom relay pole 3 goes to a connector maybe to the inducer or blower.

Could I use 2 relays and just jump the coils?

Why can’t I find 3 pole relays ?

Thank you.

 

[surferdude2]

That other one I linked already sold out. Here's a new e-bay seller link that is still active for that relay or what looks like it anyway.
*
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3 Pole Relay Steveco
*
*

 

[beenthere]

You need to measure for voltage across both 24 volt terminals at the same time.

 

[surferdude2]

You need to measure for voltage across both 24 volt terminals at the same time.

That was my thought initially but since he qualified his response by indicating it measured 24 vac on the left terminal, I figured he also measured the right terminal and got zero volts... the equivalent of measuring across the terminals.

It's hard to ever be sure when doing remote diagnosis... time will tell whether the relay is bad or there is another problem, or both.

Thanks for the input beenthere, Critical review on a forum like this is an important aspect in managing the risk to keep the OP's from doing something dangerous.

 

[Dakotalight]

I appreciate the help, thank you.

I will order that last part and see how it goes.

I was told irl by someone to disconnect the right side or output wires and then measure the right/ouput side again while it has 24V powering the left side. He said this would determine if the relay is bad or if it's being shorted by something on the output side since the left/input side has already been measured at 24V. He also said that the tripped button/reset is set by proper power being applied. However, this furnace is old and parts wearing out will happen. Here's hoping it's the relay (the cheaper part).

Thank you again. I will post how it goes.

 

[surferdude2]

As a reassuring test, measure the resistance of the operator coil by disconnecting the wires from one side and measuring across the two coil terminals. If it's defectively open, you'll get no reading (infinity). If it were shorted, it would have either blown the class 2 system fuse or smoked the 24 volt transformer by now.

I don't think that button is a reset but instead an extension of the switch armature so you can operate it manually.

 

[beenthere]

I appreciate the help, thank you.

I will order that last part and see how it goes.

I was told irl by someone to disconnect the right side or output wires and then measure the right/ouput side again while it has 24V powering the left side. He said this would determine if the relay is bad or if it's being shorted by something on the output side since the left/input side has already been measured at 24V. He also said that the tripped button/reset is set by proper power being applied. However, this furnace is old and parts wearing out will happen. Here's hoping it's the relay (the cheaper part).

Thank you again. I will post how it goes.

No, you measure for 24 volts with the wires connected to both sides of the coil.


Thats not a reset button. Its an indicator to tell you if the relay is pulled in.

 

[Dakotalight]

I bought that last part from the link that was provided and it worked perfect. Even though it was a DT I just ignored the extra connectors and it was fine.

Thank you for all your help.


Yes I see now that the button/switch on the new one is spongy/springy when you press it (the wires were not connected when I pressed it). The old button is loose most likely indicating it was damaged.

Again thanks for the help.