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I have a appliance that is 220v, in my experance to get 220v you need 2 110v legs but this device has L-pole N-pole and GND-pole if you put 2 110v legs on the L-pole you still only get 110v not 220v can anyone solve mo problem
220v single pole
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Post pictures of the name plate and termination connections.
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My first question for you is can your appliance handle 60Hz power?
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The item is from China and made for there grid
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input voltage: AC220V 50HZ
Are you asking in US Residential systems? You have split-phase power (V+ and V-) with a reference voltage (V0) in the middle. It is basically sine waves mirrored across the time axis (so in the instant when the voltage on one leg is 30 volts above "zero" (called neutral, ground or V0), the voltage on the other leg is 30 volts below zero.)
Connecting one leg directly to the other across a load means you aren't measuring from V+ to V0, or from V0 down to V-, but are measuring all the way from V+ to V-.
You don't add the voltages relative to V0 (which would sum to zero) because when V- is 70V below V0, V+ is 70V *above* V0, for example. So your new signal is from V- to V+ INSTEAD of being measured from V0--you removed V0 from the wiring. So you have a bigger voltage if you connect your load across two legs.
As Jump-start pointed out, power in the US is 60Hz. I believe some appliances can fail to function, can function oddly, can be less efficient, or can even be dangerous when operated at 50Hz; for others it does not matter. You need to figure out if your particular appliance can accept 60Hz power. The manufacturer may know, or there may be a circuit diagram you can use to figure it out.
If it will not, you may need to look into a 60Hz to 50Hz transformer capable of handling the load.
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L pole ?
N pole ?
E pole ?
That chinglish will confuse you every time
I think it is just
Live (hot)
Neutral
Earth
In the USA you will need to use two hots 220/240.
What is the appliance please ?
The voltage will be slightly higher 240 rather than 220
And 60hz instead of 50hz.
Some appliances may take it some may not
so we need to know what it is ?
N pole ?
E pole ?
That chinglish will confuse you every time
I think it is just
Live (hot)
Neutral
Earth
In the USA you will need to use two hots 220/240.
What is the appliance please ?
The voltage will be slightly higher 240 rather than 220
And 60hz instead of 50hz.
Some appliances may take it some may not
so we need to know what it is ?
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24,968 Posts
That explains it. L and N are the 240 volts.
You need a two pole breaker.
As others have asked "what is the appliance"?
If it is purely restive (as in a heater), the frequency of the supply has no bearing upon its working.
If it is motor driven, it may run faster on 60 Hz than on 50 Hz.
If it includes electronic timing, the timing may be 20% faster than that for which it was designed (on 50 Hz).
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the appliance is a heater pot for melting solder
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Frequency should not be an issue with a heater.
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Because China is 220v and not 240v as in USA,
Then it will run slightly hoter
but it should not be a problem.
Use a GFCI circuit
cause cheap Chinese are not big on electrical safety.
The frequency difference will not effect it.
Then it will run slightly hoter
but it should not be a problem.
Use a GFCI circuit
cause cheap Chinese are not big on electrical safety.
The frequency difference will not effect it.
Since this is a heating appliance designed to "Plug in" in a country that (officially) uses 230 V AC as their domestic supply, it is unlikely that the current drawn on 230 V will exceed 10 A. (The "name-plate" should indicate this and the small devices that I find listed on Ebay are rated at only 150 W - 652 mA)
(If it is one of these small devices, I note that 120 V versions [SJ-350A] are available for $19 - with free shipping !!!)
Does this device have a 240 V NEMA Plug already connected?
If not, to operate it you will need to cut off the existing plug and connect it to a 240 V supply (L1, L2 and Earth - the "Neutral" being unnecessary in this case) via a suitable NEMA Plug and Socket combination of at least the rating of the appliance and its "cord". (This should not be difficult to arrange, since the lowest rated NEMA types are 15 A!)
You could install a 2 pole switch in association with this socket, or just unplug it each time that you wish to turn it off.
The colour code of the device supply lead will probably be Brown (L1), Blue ("Neutral" in 230 V countries but L2 in your case) and Green or Green/Yellow (Earth)
If there is a switch on the appliance it will work as normal but, of course there will be two 120 V supplies up to this switch and the heating element as long as the device is "plugged in". In this it is in no way different to a 120 V device plugged in and using a switch to "operate" it, except that, in this case, there is no connection to the "Neutral" at the premises.
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