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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I plan on putting a light in a closet. I have a 20 amp line running through the area. I plan on putting the switch and light on the 20 amp line. Will any light I buy be able to be used or is there something on the fixtures I need to look at in order to find one that can go on a 20 amp line. Or does anyone have a suggestion on a particular light I can put in the closet for a 20 amp line. Thanks.
 

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You can put any normal 120V light fixture on a 120V line, regardless of the current capacity. Most light fixtures only pull about 1 amp or less, anyway. It doesn't matter whether the wiring has the capacity to carry, 15, 20, or 50 amps, it will deliver the current the light fixture requires. Having a 20 amp circuit, means can carry up to 20 amps, not that it always will. Think of it like your garden hose; a 3/4 hose has the capacity for a higher flow rate than a 1/2" hose, but with a small nozzle on either one, the flow (like the current in amps) will be the same, as long as the pressure (like voltage) remains constant.
 

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Closet lights need to be switch operated. Look at a fluorescent, which you will install at least 6" from anything flammable; clothes, etc. If you go with a surface mount fixture, you will need to stay 12" away from clothing, etc. Bare bulb fixtures are no longer allowed in closets; they must be enclosed in a globe, or other housing.

EDITED: TYPO: 6" in place of 6'
 

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It doesn't matter whether the wiring has the capacity to carry, 15, 20, or 50 amps, it will deliver the current the light fixture requires.
Until something goes wrong. Then, it'll pull any current it wants, and you're in a race condition between whether a) the wiring in the wall will overheat and start a fire, or b) the breaker will thermal-trip. If you use 12 AWG Cu, the breaker will trip first. If you use 14 AWG, anyone's guess.
 

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Until something goes wrong. Then, it'll pull any current it wants, and you're in a race condition between whether a) the wiring in the wall will overheat and start a fire, or b) the breaker will thermal-trip. If you use 12 AWG Cu, the breaker will trip first. If you use 14 AWG, anyone's guess.

Sorry, I should have said "circuit" rather than "wiring", i.e. "It doesn't matter whether the circuit has the capacity to carry, 15, 20, or 50 amps...", so that the breaker capacity is included. Anyway, the OP isn't changing the wire in the circuit, just adding a light fixture, so if the existing wiring was the right size (12 AWG) for the circuit before the light fixture was installed, it will still be adequate after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If the poster is in Canada (this is unknown), CEC does not allow lighting on a 20 amp circuit.
I'm in the US so it is legal which I knew I just never have done so which was why I was looking for clarification. That's interesting that you are not allowed up there. I figured the wiring on a 20 amp line on a light fixture would be different. I understand now why it's not. I also appreciate knowing about the light clearances I never thought about that one.
 

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...CEC does not allow lighting on a 20 amp circuit.

Interesting. I'd be curious to know why they did that.



I recently learned that apparently the Australian code requires GCFI breakers for everything, because a few drywall installers got electrocuted due to incorrect placement of wiring. Code writers gone wild!
 

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I have a 20 amp line running through the area.

What area does this circuit running thru service? It is important to know this. My interpretation of what you are saying is that you have a 20amp line running thru the attic above and you want to tap into the line. You need to know what that line is servicing because some locations such as bathrooms can not service more than just the bathroom. Or if that line is running to one of the SABC in the kitchen you can't tap into that one either by code.


What does that line service that you want to tap into?
 

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You need to know what that line is servicing because some locations such as bathrooms can not service more than just the bathroom. Or if that line is running to one of the SABC in the kitchen you can't tap into that one either by code.

That's a good point. I remember from a job I worked as a teen that supposedly incandescent bulbs on the same line as a motor or especially a compressor would shorten the the life of the bulbs due to out-of-phase feedback. It was more detrimental to electronics, at least those of that era (30 years ago).
 
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