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2 X 6" Floor Plate for 2 x 4" Wall?
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Any reason you can't just build a 2 X 6 wall?
But since this is a non load bearing wall you can make any design choice you want
But since this is a non load bearing wall you can make any design choice you want
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Too tight for a 2 x 6" wall. Washer box needs to be in this wall, near front, for hose access. I think I can just secure the drain stack and p-trap to one of the 2 x 4" studs and route the drainpipe down through the uncovered backside of the wall and through the subfloor without drilling any holes. It will be hidden by the tub skirt. Then I just drywall "closet" or use 1/2" plywood to cover interior of laundry area.
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I am sure this thread is associated with another, as it doesn't make any sense. Why use a 2x6 bottom plate for a 2x4 wall? What is the advantage?
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I was trying to find a way to install a 2" PVC drain pipe for stackable washer in 2 x 4" wall, not allowed by code. Since the wall will snug up to the rear of new cast iron tub, I'll just route the drainpipe 90 degrees to exit the subfloor beneath the tub, where it cannot be seen. Drainpipe will then follow between joists down and out.
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Why is it not allowed by code? Although a plumbing wall (2x6) is preferred, it is done all the time with proper precautions. I believe we mentioned putting mending plates across wood where the pipe is too close to the surface in another thread.
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Not doubting you, Chandler. It's just against code. If it can be done with mending plates, I'll try that. It is not a load-bearing wall.
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https://up.codes/s/drilling-and-notching-of-studs
I'm just saying that rule says no more than 60 percent of width for hole. Outside diameter of 2" drain pipe is 2.3" Width of 2 x 4 is 3.5", so 3.5" X .60 = 2.10 maximum diameter.
I'm sure this is done. My house definitely had a lot of work done to it that wasn't permitted and I know wouldn't have passed inspection; especially the electrical department.
I'm just saying that rule says no more than 60 percent of width for hole. Outside diameter of 2" drain pipe is 2.3" Width of 2 x 4 is 3.5", so 3.5" X .60 = 2.10 maximum diameter.
I'm sure this is done. My house definitely had a lot of work done to it that wasn't permitted and I know wouldn't have passed inspection; especially the electrical department.
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That refers to studs....not plates.
Unless you are going horizontally through studs it doesn't apply to what you are doing. Chandler has already mentioned the mending plates.
Read R602.6.1
Unless you are going horizontally through studs it doesn't apply to what you are doing. Chandler has already mentioned the mending plates.
Read R602.6.1
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I am not trying to act like I know more than you do; if I seem to have, I apologize. I can do home renovation, but I am a master auto tech by trade. I ask you guys because you know more about it than I do, and I respect that. I ask because I want to do it right the first time.
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I'm not sure why you made that comment. You didn't come across as a know-it-all. You asked for advice and we are giving it....nothing to read into there.
My comment was to give you my take on the code reference you posted.
There is a difference between studs and plates by location, not by material.
You can't weaken a wall stud with a hole required for a piece of 2" pipe. You take away all of it's rigidity. You and I agree on that. But think about how a plate is fastened. A continuous board fastened securely to a floor or ceiling. Unless it is a bearing wall it's only purpose is to hold the studs in place. But look again at the reference you posted and remember the difference between the stud and the plate even though they may be the exact same material.
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I made that comment because I thought I was coming across as a know it all. Which I didn't want to do. 
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Not at all. Clarification of the code with regards to studs versus plates made it another ball game, so you are good.
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Chandler: Just curious as you probably see this in a lot of homes under construction. I've been told I need a 3" drainpipe for frontloading stackable washer on second floor. I had a (another) plumber come out and look at the pipe layout and he said I could attach it to the pipe shown in the photo, which is 2" (another plumber did the work in photo and someone pointed out that vent was too low. So I cut entire pipe out just about 4" from cast iron stack). Just so you know, stackable washer will be on second floor just to right of vent pipe in photo.
I'm just wondering if you see 3" pipes in wetwalls and what's attached, example: does 2" stack and trap go into 3" drainpipe, with 1 1/2" vent pipe on top? I can't find any diagrams of this setup on the internet.
Attachments
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.....and who told you that?
Per code....it is 2".
You need to get your advice elsewhere.
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It was DIY, and he was quoting IPC 2012 406.2m, which does stipulate using a 3" pipe.
Plumber I had look at it said it was okay to run a 2" stack, trap, and drain pipe to tie in to the line shown in photo. He said I could run the bathtub drain into the same line with washer if I used a Y pipe. As for myself, I think that would be a little much, although I'm not sure. I'm thinking the drain pipe for washer should be used only for washer.
There will be a tub at other end of room, behind wall I will build, but there is a 2" drainpipe directly below tub in lower room, where the washer was at one time. I want to put a sink and vanity where the washer was, but whoever plumbed it didn't vent it. And I don't think I could run a vent horizontally through floor joists and down to it. I have plenty of room to run (2) 1.5" vents from roof vent to washer stack, and from roof vent to tub drain.
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