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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to troubleshoot a non working switched hall light on my 45 year old house. Found non working switched outlet in adjacent bedroom. Was only showing about 30 volts in both.

Appears I have two switch outlets in different bedrooms, a ceiling fan, the switched hall light, AND the hall bathroom outlet and switched light fixtures AND a switched attic fan on this circuit.

A junction box in the attic contains the power feed for the lamp, bedroom outlet, and an outlet in the attic. Everything in junction box melted. Note CB did not trip. Wire from outlet box to lamp frayed with bare wire exposed where it ran through hole drilled in rafter but no signs of arcing there.

House was originally, and still is, alumnium wiring although cooper pigtails have been added over the years.

I can replace the wiring but is there too much on this circuit? Roofer replaced the attic fan a few years ago ( on thermostat) so wondering if that is the culprit.

Nick
 

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I suspect the loose connection was the issue. Splices in aluminum conductors need to use special materials.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looking again,the source into the junction box is copper (from another box) while two other original cables in the box are aluminum with the third cable copper . Likely the copper aluminum connection loosened up.

The two original aluminum cables run into the wall below and must run to the switched outlet in the bedroom ( single pole switch) and the hall lamp switch below.

It appears to me that the power source connected to one of the original cables running into the wall and down to the switches below and the other original cable from the wall connected to the cable running to the hall lamp. All 14-2 wire.

Four black to black and white to white with wire connectors - correct? Are there specific aluminum to copper connectors or the standard connector with anti-oxide cream okay?

I have whites used as hots in the outlet box but shouldn't have that in this junction box- correct?
 

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Regular wire nust are not for use with aluminum , even with no-a lox in them.

The Ideal 65's are only for copper to aluminum connections.they have a 3 conductor limit IIRC. There is some debate about their use. King Innovations make a nice set screw connector for aluminum. The instructions call for a torque screwdriver to be used.

Whites should not be used as hots.
 

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A white in a switch loop should be remarked as a hot. Latest codes call for a neutral at the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The whites used as hots in the outlet box are marked - I wasn't clear.

The wires in the junction box were badly burned and blackened so I was not sure if any whites were marked.

Everything redone and works fine. Now I have to find that switch plate that I laid down somewhere.....
 
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