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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am at a loss for how we should insulate our shed ceiling. We bought a 12x24 shed with two 6ft lofts on each end. We are going to use for a home office/guest house for when family comes into town. We are finishing out the insides ourselves. We have already insulated the walls with R-13 craft faced batts. I bought R30 for the ceilings because that was the type it said for Texas.

The R-30 is thick and I guess the ceiling rafters are 2x4 and I'm not sure insulation will fit. And now I'm reading everywhere that there should be a 1 inch air gap between roof deck and insulation and now I really don't know if the will be room for all of that.

Is the air gap really needed? If so, do I go to another size insulation to accommodate? Do I need to install baffles? I see that mentioned sometimes as well. Also, as far as venting, all I see are two gable vents that are on each side of shed in the lofts. There are no soffits or anything.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I am at a loss for how we should insulate our shed ceiling. We bought a 12x24 shed with two 6ft lofts on each end. We are going to use for a home office/guest house for when family comes into town. We are finishing out the insides ourselves. We have already insulated the walls with R-13 craft faced batts. I bought R30 for the ceilings because that was the type it said for Texas.

The R-30 is thick and I guess the ceiling rafters are 2x4 and I'm not sure insulation will fit. And now I'm reading everywhere that there should be a 1 inch air gap between roof deck and insulation and now I really don't know if the will be room for all of that.

Is the air gap really needed? If so, do I go to another size insulation to accommodate? Do I need to install baffles? I see that mentioned sometimes as well. Also, as far as venting, all I see are two gable vents that are on each side of shed in the lofts. There are no soffits or anything.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Unless you want to lose the lofts and make the ceilings flat by framing the rest of the ceiling out flat, spray foam is your only option. r-30 will not fit into a 4-inch cavity.
 

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You could continue those collar ties for the entire length of the building, thus creating a TINY attic space for the R-30but the vaulted part will need some sort of rigid foam sealed tight. The worst-case scenario would be to put r-13 in there with no ventilation and it might rot out in 10 years but it's just a small shed and would not be ridiculous to repair.
 

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At least you didn't bungle finishing out your actual home...like I have. I am at the point that if it rots, it rots. Tired of fooling with it. Just go for it and see what happens. Like I said, it's a shed.
 

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It is a shed and was not built to be used as living space. No idea what your local building department would say but I doubt they would approve your plans.

Bud
 

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It is a shed and was not built to be used as living space. No idea what your local building department would say but I doubt they would approve your plans.

Bud

Not every vicinity is code compliant. The guy wants his shed finished. Most codes are redundant and get in the way and keep bureaucrats in jobs. In my area, you pat $25 and nobody even comes out to check.
 

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The guidance we provide here is supposed to show people how to do things right, not encourage them to ignore building codes or best building practices. In this case he has told us people will be living there at times so best to investigate what building codes advise.

There is no mention of electrical and plumbing or any heat or cooling.

Bud
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It is a shed and was not built to be used as living space. No idea what your local building department would say but I doubt they would approve your plans.

Bud
Building codes don't apply where we are and no one will be out to check anything. It will mainly be used as a home office but we may have a family member stay a night or two around the holidays.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The guidance we provide here is supposed to show people how to do things right, not encourage them to ignore building codes or best building practices. In this case he has told us people will be living there at times so best to investigate what building codes advise.

There is no mention of electrical and plumbing or any heat or cooling.

Bud
We had the shed company wire for electrical and have a through the wall A/C unit. No heat or plumbing. Will have space heater or some sort of electrical heating unit. Not that concerned about heat as it doesn't stay cold too long in Texas and we aren't living it.
 

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At least you didn't bungle finishing out your actual home...like I have. I am at the point that if it rots, it rots. Tired of fooling with it. Just go for it and see what happens. Like I said, it's a shed.
I'm kind of with you on that. My husband and I are just ready to get this done. I've tried to be smart and research everything but I may just give it a shot with what we have.
 

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The guidance we provide here is supposed to show people how to do things right, not encourage them to ignore building codes or best building practices. In this case he has told us people will be living there at times so best to investigate what building codes advise.

There is no mention of electrical and plumbing or any heat or cooling.

Bud

Sometimes people have to live in the real world. I grew up in and have worked on mobile homes. I have seen what passes "code" and is considered habitable. The home I grew up in consisted of a 2x4 frame with aluminum on the outside and paneling on the inside with scant insulation between. This place is a palace compared to that, and that trailer home is still standing after 41 years...
 

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I wouldn't worry so much about the R30 requirement. Especially if you want to maximize the loft space for mattresses or whatever (which is where Neal is headed). I think I see a WRB on the walls but your windows are probably single pane and the door/floor is leaky, so bring the insulation level down a notch and accept the leaky.
 
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