1/2" OSB board for shed floor
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2,325 Posts
from personal experience - no, no, nooooooooo
bad, bad idea.
as mentioned: B or CDX or P/T plywood only.
that close to the ground, I would definitely seal the bottom side.
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bad, bad idea.
as mentioned: B or CDX or P/T plywood only.
that close to the ground, I would definitely seal the bottom side.
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503 Posts
I would go with pressure treated plywood.
On my shed I did double 1/2” standard plywood and painted it. Lasted about 5 years.
Removed and replaced with 1/2” pressure treated plywood and it’s going strong for 10 years now.
On my shed I did double 1/2” standard plywood and painted it. Lasted about 5 years.
Removed and replaced with 1/2” pressure treated plywood and it’s going strong for 10 years now.
I would just put 3/4” advantech on the floor and drive my garden tractor, z turn mower, log splitter, etc in the thing and call it a day. Given initial 500 day no sand warranty for direct exterior exposure, I’m figuring water dripping off my stuff won’t hurt it. Ron
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37,499 Posts
Pressure treated plywood is full of knots and voids in the plys.
Advantech is T & G and will give you a rock soild floor with no voids for bugs to get in.
Advantech is T & G and will give you a rock soild floor with no voids for bugs to get in.
Looks like ok for oil/solvent based coatings, no water based
http://www.huberwood.com/assets/user/library/AdvanTech_and_coatings_v2.pdf
Another option would be to staple a layer of poly over the joist tops just prior to laying the sheathing. It should do a good job keeping ground moisture vapor from passing into the sheathing. Cheap insurance and easier than painting.
And we are using treated joist?
And treated lumber rated fasteners.
http://www.huberwood.com/assets/user/library/AdvanTech_and_coatings_v2.pdf
Another option would be to staple a layer of poly over the joist tops just prior to laying the sheathing. It should do a good job keeping ground moisture vapor from passing into the sheathing. Cheap insurance and easier than painting.
And we are using treated joist?
And treated lumber rated fasteners.
Just to throw out another option,
I've built 2 sheds,
First I did on concrete blocks with PT 2x with CDX plywood. Was a pain to level the blocks, it raised up the floor so it sat taller, and needed a bigger ramp and when I added up the cost and the PITA effort to level the blocks in my yard, when I built my shed in my new house I did it differently.
I paid to have a concrete pad put down with anchor bolts. it cost more, but i didn't have the need to do any of it myself, deal with the leveling etc, and I'm happier with the finished product. I also had him pour a little ramp up to it.
Now the nice gentlemen who did this poured it out of square...which pissed me off on such a small pad of 10x12.. but I still am happier with the shed.
I also had all the lumber delivered along with vinyl siding, and roofing material etc, to save myself time and effort for all that crap.
I've built 2 sheds,
First I did on concrete blocks with PT 2x with CDX plywood. Was a pain to level the blocks, it raised up the floor so it sat taller, and needed a bigger ramp and when I added up the cost and the PITA effort to level the blocks in my yard, when I built my shed in my new house I did it differently.
I paid to have a concrete pad put down with anchor bolts. it cost more, but i didn't have the need to do any of it myself, deal with the leveling etc, and I'm happier with the finished product. I also had him pour a little ramp up to it.
Now the nice gentlemen who did this poured it out of square...which pissed me off on such a small pad of 10x12.. but I still am happier with the shed.
I also had all the lumber delivered along with vinyl siding, and roofing material etc, to save myself time and effort for all that crap.
Yes, and any nail or screw going into treated lumber needs to be coated and rated for treated lumber.
The current treated lumber will rot uncoated fasteners clean off in short order.
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