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Old 01-05-2011, 11:03 PM   #31
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Because it's the right way to do it.

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Old 01-06-2011, 04:10 PM   #32
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Quote:
i have just heard alot of bad stuff about the slc
not leveling properly and whatnot
I have heard this, I have have heard that, someone told me, GOOD LORD!

THAT is nonsense! If you don't stop listening to nonsense or start telling us where you are getting this anonymous crap I'm not going to spend any more time with your project.

If you think thinset is the way to go then use thinset. I am telling you however if you use thinset with your skill-level you will regret it totally.

Quote:
also when i put this 3/8 exterior grade plywood, should i put construction adhesive down and 3 inch screws into the joists and 2 1/2 in the field?
No construction adhesive, never in this case. Fasten the 3/8 plywood only to the existing subfloor material and avoid the floor joists as best you can.

Be sure to first stiffen-up the original subfloor by screwing it to the floor joists where needed.

Quote:
also the heated part of the roof is only going to be about 15 square feet
Please don't make me keep reading this thread over and over. Everything about your project is fresh in your mind but I work with several threads on a daily basis and I can't begin to keep up with you at this rate.

NOW! What roof? I'm lost.

Quote:
it is approximately 30 square feet, main bathroom
OK great! You can bury the heat totally with less than two stinkin' bags of Self Levelling Compound. This will take about twelve minutes.

Let's try to move forward instead of repeating everything. If you have some reason to distrust the information Jaz and I are supplying you with or our price is too high then say so and we'll opt-out of your thread.
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:07 PM   #33
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i am just wondering why that is all sorry if this is pissing you off
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:20 PM   #34
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i am just wondering why that is all sorry if this is pissing you off
Oh it's not pissing me off but to go into depth to thoroughly answer all the same questions over and over would take hours of typing and you may or may not even say thank you.

You are getting the straight skinny from two guys that represent more than a combined seventy-five years of experience in this trade. Just trying to keep things moving in a positive direction while holding the times to a minimum so that others can be served on other threads. Then there is the family time that we steal from to be here. The truth is this job doesn't pay all that well.

What's next?
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:04 PM   #35
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Yikes guys.....chill a bit! If you guys are going to be the big shots on a DIY forum, you must have thought that in order to answer rookies' questions, you MAY have to repeat yourself once in awhile.... Sheesh!

I've been reading this and other DIY forums for a while - and contribute on other forums where I'm one of the experts....and this is the only forum where it feels like people are pulling yer teeth to get some advice. LOL!

I'm sure many appreciate your time and efforts here, but if you don't have the time to be pleasant while helping, maybe helping isn't for you....

Last edited by E-TEK; 02-11-2011 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:08 PM   #36
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Welcome aboard Etek, sorry your first experience on the best DIY'r site on the web had to be this one.

I am sure it not always like this one,

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Old 02-11-2011, 10:15 PM   #37
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No worries - I just felt bad for the OP!
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:44 AM   #38
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hey guys bringing this back up again
but i have got more money to do this
i havent done anything yet
but in my case would it be benificial to use cement board as underlayment?
so my question is i will be going down to the original subfloor and going from there what should i use?
thanks!!
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:58 AM   #39
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The definition of insanity-----repeating the same act over and over expecting different results
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:10 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awdblazer
hey guys bringing this back up again
but i have got more money to do this
i havent done anything yet
but in my case would it be benificial to use cement board as underlayment?
so my question is i will be going down to the original subfloor and going from there what should i use?
thanks!!
You've got your answers already...

Use the method that Bud Cline gave you. (3/8" then heat then SLC then tile) It will work fine.

Sometimes as DIYers we over think things way too much!!! Get a plan and set it in motion. All the "I've heard this about that and that about this" it's all in the directions and application!! IMO 

So get your supplies, take photos along the way and post them when you're done so we can see the end results!!! TRUST YOURSELF!!!
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:35 AM   #41
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ok here is my plans, please critique
rip up old floor to existing subfloor
lay down thinset and place cement board underlayment (what thickness)
thinset all joints and place fibertape
then install my heated floor wire and cover in self levelling compound
then lay tile with thinset
grout
seal
???
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:45 PM   #42
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Quote:
ok here is (are) my plans, please critique
rip up old floor to existing subfloor
lay down thinset and place cement board underlayment (what thickness)
thinset all joints and place fibertape
then install my heated floor wire and cover in self levelling compound
then lay tile with thinset
grout
seal
???
OK, you have me pretty much wore out with all of this indecision. I'm not going to read this thread again. Where is the "cement board" thing coming from? I don't remember cement board being in the mix until now. I thought you were first adding some 3/8" plywood. Someone please correct me if I'm mistaken.

With the SLC you don't need cement board (unless you just really really want to use it). The SLC takes the place of the cement board.
IT'S THE SAME THING!!! Don't forget to use the primer!

Now go to work.
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:05 AM   #43
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oh ok i didnt know that about cement board
so 3/8 ply then my heated wire then slc then thinset then tile?
would using cement board be more ridgid as it is thinsetted down to the subfloor?
i really dont know what i am talking about thats why i am asking you gurus
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:11 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud Cline

With the SLC you don't need cement board (unless you just really really want to use it). The SLC takes the place of the cement board.
IT'S THE SAME THING!!! Don't forget to use the primer!

Now go to work.
^^^^^Read this part again^^^^^
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:49 PM   #45
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Quote:
would using cement board be more ridgid as it is thinsetted down to the subfloor?
Nope!
You get absolutely no structural benefit what-so-ever from cement board. Cement board is nothing more than a compatible "tooth" for the thinset mortar to bond with and it moves at approximately the same rate as tile when expanding and contracting.

Quote:
i really dont know what i am talking about thats why i am asking you gurus
Got that part. You'll do fine. You would be better off if your computer where to blow a fuse right about now so you could get started with your tile installation.

Remember the story about the "Little Engine That Could"?

I think I can I think I can I think I can

You can do this!
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