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Old 06-26-2014, 09:38 PM   #46
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Hi mnp13
i agree with you.
But does the plywood have to be exterior graded?
can i use SPE plywood?

Last edited by somuchtolearn; 06-26-2014 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:21 PM   #47
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i mean spruce plywood
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:22 AM   #48
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The correct thing to use is exterior grade. You can use anything you want, but I personally would not. Think of it this way - is it better to spend the extra bucks now, or later if you have to tear the whole thing out?

Exterior plywood is made with waterproof glue. Though you will hope that water never makes it down to your plywood, if it does, you want your plywood to not delaminate. Exterior grade plywood can withstand some water, interior grade can't. Then there is marine grade plywood, which I am using in my shower floor. Not only does it have waterproof glue, but it is manufactured to not have any voids in the layers either. Considering the money I'm sinking into my bathroom (especially the floor) I only want to have to do this one time.

Here is a link:
http://www.apextera.com/article/types-plywood
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:26 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetSwet View Post
86.5 years?!..... lol what r u a vampire lol
It's called sarcasm, and it related to all of the crap advice that is handed out based on someone's claim of 96 years of experience doing xyz completely against all code, trade practice and common sense, but since "they never had a problem" they pass it on as the correct way to do it.

Tiling directly onto plywood comes to mind.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:49 PM   #50
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If everything was done by the book the it would be no fun....

I have been around the block a time or two lol
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Old 06-27-2014, 05:13 PM   #51
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mnp13
thank you for that information.
Also, any advices on using the self-leveling compound?
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:06 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnp13 View Post
It's called sarcasm, and it related to all of the crap advice that is handed out based on someone's claim of 96 years of experience doing xyz completely against all code, trade practice and common sense, but since "they never had a problem" they pass it on as the correct way to do it.

Tiling directly onto plywood comes to mind.
You can tile on plywood. Check your TCNA F160-07 standard.
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:19 PM   #53
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DITRA over heat mat over SLC over plywood


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Again..... Not understanding why you need to SLC the entire floor?..... Did you check to see where you are dipping or crowning? Please answer.

Usually when installing a heat mat you self level over the mat then install ditra...... So yes it's possible so treat it as such.
So this is exactly what I was doing and apparently the SLC I chose (Levelquick RS) required a metal lath when pouring over plywood. You guys know any way I can salvage this (short of ripping it all out and starting over)? And any way you could possibly use the metal lath over a heat mat without risking damage to the heat mat or temp sensor?
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:33 PM   #54
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Quote:
So this is exactly what I was doing and apparently the SLC ...........
What do you mean apparently? It's in the directions, it's always been the case.

Maybe you should consider DitraHeat? http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/...r-Warming/c/FW

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Old 01-04-2016, 06:35 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
Quote:
So this is exactly what I was doing and apparently the SLC ...........
What do you mean apparently? It's in the directions, it's always been the case.

Maybe you should consider DitraHeat? http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/...r-Warming/c/FW

Jaz
Ok - now that you have that oh-so-unhelpful retort out of the way, let's take out the word "apparently" and see if someone could kindly answer the question without quite so much sarcasm (or an equal amount sarcasm and substance). Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:12 PM   #56
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This is from 2014 lol
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:27 PM   #57
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Well I'm pretty sure there are people other than me who are still reading it. Wonder how the original poster's job turned out. For anyone who wants to know, the manufacturer said you can add the metal lath and do a second pour. That may not work if you did a thicker pour than I did on my first pour, but there you have it.
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:03 PM   #58
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That's fine but your question also was about fastening lath over heat mat. Two pours may be in order. Can the mat be removed without damage?

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Old 01-06-2016, 04:49 AM   #59
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Still working on removing it so I'm not sure. As hard as it is to get this stuff up I think it might have lasted years without any lath. Searching for some plastic lath locally...
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