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Old 08-15-2018, 09:51 AM   #1
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Tub faucet change requires ?? on walls


Sorry guys - I wrote a long explanation of how I've gotten to where I'm at so you can help me make a decision. Please scroll down to the smile I'll embed if you're one of those guys that just wants to know the bottom line.

I'm getting my mother's 1964 mobile home ready for sale. We ran into some unexpected issues that is impacting my original decisions about the 1964 tub that's never been removed or repaired. That peach cast iron baby isn't going anywhere.

When my mother bought the home in 1990's, she couldn't stand the laminate covering the walls. Yes, laminate. 1/4" board topped by beautiful white with gold 'veined' laminate floor to ceiling throughout the room. We sanded the laminate, primed with original Kilz, and painted it a nice off-white shade in a laytex gloss. It is still painted, and you can't even tell my mother had been showering in that tub for years using a handheld mounted to the wall where the shower head would go. (She had a walk-in tub installed in the master, but she showered here nearly every day for 6 years).

When we first started getting the home ready for sale, we were going to leave the tub in place, with the same fixtures and painted walls. I just couldn't afford a massive remodel and I already had dry rot in that floor coming from the toilet. Sure enough, the deck under the tub was sound, and we only had a small area of dry rot to repair. Then, as we were doing some other work, we realized that the rusting galvanized pipe had to go. So, my plumber son-in-law is putting in a PEX-A home run system. I thought AHA! I'll go ahead and bring that tub/shower up to code and find a two-handle 8" on center pressure balanced or thermostatic cartridge system, slip it into the same holes, and that will do just fine. Nope. I mean, I did finally find one made by Kingston Brass that would fit the bill, but it went on backorder, and all the other options are way out of my price range. And I could cheat and say I'm replacing the same fixtures and just not bring them up to code, but I don't want to be responsible for some old woman getting scalded when her husband (REX!) runs in and flushes the toilet like he does at my house. So, I either have to leave it out of code, or put in into code by getting an affordable single-handle pressure balanced system and then covering up the old handle holes.



So, if I do go ahead and put a shower in that tub, I need some cheap (inexpensive, not cheap looking) way to cover up the old holes.

Option 1: Just don't do it. You're already over budget. If your mom could live with it, then so can they.
BUT - I need to get as much as I can for this remodel because my brother needs a lung transplant.

Option 2: Get a cheap paste-on tub surround. I've looked at these, and only a few are going to work because I have both a window and a through-the-wall vent to accommodate. I've already replaced the 1964 countertop with one of the newer laminates, I'm putting in a 5" mosaic backspash around the counter, new linoleum and new toilet. I just don't think the less that $200 paste-on surround I can afford will look as good as the painted surround does now. I would also need to remove the 1 1/4" chrome edging between the tub and the wall, and put the new surround behind that. I don't like the idea of tearing that out.

Option 3: Probably crazy. Tile over the old surround. I mean, it's already doing a good job keeping the water out. If I painted it with some red or blue stuff, then got the right kind of grout, why wouldn't the tile stick? I mean, when you put red stuff all over the top of whatever your tiling on, the tile is sticking to the red stuff, and not whatever's under it, right? I could pick up the tile for around the same or less cost as a paste-on unit. And would I have to remove the chrome edging, or just tile above it?

One pic is of the whole bath. It looks like it has a shower head, but that's just something to hang the hand-held shower on. The other pic is looking at the exposed edge of the window, showing the metal T holding the laminate down tight, and how nearly impossible it would be to remove the laminate.

I'd really like to go with Option 3 if I can tile directly onto the laminate with appropriate red guard or aqua blue, and a really sticky mastic that would hold the tile.

Please let me know what you'd do. And thanks!!!!
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Old 08-15-2018, 10:03 AM   #2
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Re: Tub faucet change requires ?? on walls


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BUT - I need to get as much as I can for this remodel because my brother needs a lung transplant.
How much more do you think you will get from the sale? My guess is not much.
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Old 08-15-2018, 12:12 PM   #3
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Re: Tub faucet change requires ?? on walls


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Originally Posted by Guap0_ View Post
How much more do you think you will get from the sale? My guess is not much.
I think this sums it up. From a buyer's perspective, the whole bathroom is in need of an update. Set your asking price a bit higher to start so that you can come down as an "allowance" for the buyer's remodel?
Any money that you put into that bath is going to be wasted/overlooked when it gets ripped out to replace the tub, etc. Otherwise, some big box store 69-cent-special tiles over the existing surround will be the most effective route if you're dead set on spending the time and money on it.
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