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Old 01-23-2012, 05:36 PM   #1
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Tile shower


I would like to know if I can put greenboard up in the shower walls, redgard them, and then put up shower friendly backer board and red guard them as well before I tile. Looking for added strength. I'm redoing my moms whole shower. She is 65 years old. If she was to slip, god forbid, I don't want tiles to pop or break and cause sharp pieces. Any input on the subject would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:33 PM   #2
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That would be a little overkill unless you need to pad the walls out + drywall would doing much as any kind of support factor.
Provided its not a steam shower- be sure to use 2x4 or 2x6 blocking where necessary for grab bars, if you need to pad out walls use a cdx or bc plywood, attach you cbu and apply your red guard to customs specs... You may also need cbu mesh tape applied and use thinset to close up your board seams before waterproofing
I don't follow Custom's products so check on your necessary board prep before you liquid...
Hope that helps

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Old 01-23-2012, 06:34 PM   #3
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Not a good idea----if you are looking for something stronger than cement board--use 1/2" Hardi backer

Your mom will break before a Hardibacker and tiled wall will---Be sure to add some blocking for safety grab rails----Better to keep her from falling in the first place/

Be nice to your mom---you only get one---Mike---
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:37 PM   #4
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Tech Dawg beat me to it---What he said---I like Hydroban by Latacrete--it's more expensive--

But the Red Guard does a good job for a shower wall---
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:41 PM   #5
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Waist of time and materials. You would have to hit the wall with a sledge hammer to break it with 1/2 tile board, and attached correctly the tiles are never going to come off or break.
It would also space the wall out to far.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:47 PM   #6
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B4y77, I also like to glue the studs with PL premium construction adhesive when attaching cbu to the walls... Makes me feel better..

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Old 01-23-2012, 06:56 PM   #7
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Ok that's what I was looking for. Thanks for the input from all!! And to mike I do have a plan for a grab bar. Safety first!! Especially for mom! Ok just one more question. In the corners of my shower stall, the studs have a gap. What's the best way to fill that to back my water proofing membrane? Thanks!
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:29 PM   #8
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Also once the backer board is in place and it's time to thinset the joints do I fill the corners joint like I would drywall? Thanks
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:58 AM   #9
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I'd need to see the gap in the studs----corners should be nailed together---no gap

Improper framing needs to be corrected before attaching the backer board.

Use tilers mesh (alkali resistant) and a thin coat of thinset--thin--you want a flat wall

Just covet the gaps--the Redguard only needs the gaps filled.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:57 AM   #10
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hope this pic works

I don't think it's improper framing. Just 30 something years old and had drywall and a 1/2 inch mortar layer. So they had no gap.

Now when I thin set the joints, do I use thin set to join backer board/ drywall transfer. I really appreciate your time. Thanks
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:53 PM   #11
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Yep--that is not right--unless there is blocking that is not shown--those single studs will move to much and your corners will open and close--ripping up your taped corner and the caulk on the tile,

Remove one of them---either add a double (2 nailed together side by side) --slip it into place with the new stud behind the one on the other wall--then toe nail top and bottom--then pin the left wall stud to your new double.

Same thing could be done by nailing 2 studs together in an L shape--
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:36 PM   #12
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There is a block behind the corner studs. It just doesn't run the whole length down. So the gap is just at the bottom. Do I still need a double stud?
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:16 PM   #13
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You are good--push on the studs--see if they bend--but that blocking is usually just fine--
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:26 PM   #14
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They don't bend. So now what would you recommend to fill the gap for water proofing? 5 minute mud or expansion foam? I don't want to half-a•• anything here. Or would the better bet be using vinyl instead of redgard?
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:12 PM   #15
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Install your backer board as tight as you can----then cover all gaps and seams with tilers mesh---then add a thin coat of thinset---

After that add your Redguard or Hydro ban.

If you like the surface membrains--Schluter makes the most popular--along with Knoble--

I use Hydroban and am not knowledgeable in the surface membranes---several other here are--if you want to know about them--just ask--someone else will answer those--
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