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Old 02-13-2016, 11:14 AM   #31
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that looks good, with a slight slope, but not enough to make the strainer crooked...
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:36 PM   #32
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That's the ticket----1/4" per foot drop is the standard---
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Old 02-14-2016, 10:32 AM   #33
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ok, i have a question, not to jack this thread.

why can't the trap be left where it is/was ?
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Old 02-14-2016, 10:43 AM   #34
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A trap in the line is called a 'running trap'--and has two very real problems--

1. they can be sucked dry (by siphoning) allowing sewer gas to enter the building--
2. they allow sludge and hair to drop and cause a blockage---this is a very likely failure --and rather hard to rod--due to the double bend.
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Old 02-14-2016, 10:52 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
A trap in the line is called a 'running trap'--and has two very real problems--

1. they can be sucked dry (by siphoning) allowing sewer gas to enter the building--
2. they allow sludge and hair to drop and cause a blockage---this is a very likely failure --and rather hard to rod--due to the double bend.
ok, makes sense.

oh, and thanx = for not saying, "because thats not the right way".
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:01 AM   #36
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if you had to leave the trap in its original location it would work and if properly vented and with a pvc trap I wouldnt be too worried about any siphonage effect, and again with pvc build up of debris and trouble rootering it is negligible...but if its doable to put the trap under the strainer, that would be better..
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:53 AM   #37
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Quote:
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if you had to leave the trap in its original location it would work and if properly vented and with a pvc trap I wouldnt be too worried about any siphonage effect, and again with pvc build up of debris and trouble rootering it is negligible...but if its doable to put the trap under the strainer, that would be better..
There are several 'IFs' in this post---

So--doing it correctly may cost $10 in parts and perhaps an hour---or even two--

'IF' the work fails----the new base ,tile work and slab will need to be removed and rebuilt----

As Clint Eastwood would say, "Are you feeling lucky?"
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Old 02-14-2016, 12:07 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
There are several 'IFs' in this post---

So--doing it correctly may cost $10 in parts and perhaps an hour---or even two--

'IF' the work fails----the new base ,tile work and slab will need to be removed and rebuilt----

As Clint Eastwood would say, "Are you feeling lucky?"
thats why I said IF..the trap could not be moved...
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:15 PM   #39
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Ok, before I actually apply glue, does everything look ok?

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Old 02-16-2016, 05:07 AM   #40
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That looks right to me----
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Old 02-16-2016, 05:13 AM   #41
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The flange should be set high enough to end up on top of you finished floor.
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Old 02-16-2016, 06:18 AM   #42
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Quote:
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The flange should be set high enough to end up on top of you finished floor.
That is a shower pan clamp drain--
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Old 02-16-2016, 06:29 AM   #43
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Quote:
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That is a shower pan clamp drain--
Oops, that's what I get for not reading😨 Or even looking very closely.
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Old 02-16-2016, 07:09 AM   #44
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Quote:
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Oops, that's what I get for not reading😨 Or even looking very closely.
coffee time...
looks good glue er up..
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Old 02-16-2016, 09:48 AM   #45
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Correct, It's a clamp drain. There's a couple of pieces that go on top. I presumed the bottom flange should sit as low as possible (in this case slightly below the floor surface. But should it be high enough to sit on top (or flush?) of my pre-slope? It seems like my pre-slope will be paper-thin by the time it reaches the drain otherwise. But maybe that's ok?

Also, can I fill the hole with sand, then top it off with concrete (to the thickness of the slab) when I'm done?
Do I need to leave space around the bottom flange? Or or do I literally concrete it in?
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