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Old 01-29-2016, 09:22 AM   #16
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are you going to use flexible pvc shower liner?
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Old 01-29-2016, 10:04 AM   #17
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My plan is to build the curb, pour a pre-slope, lay the liner, then pour the pan. All this using the "goof-proof" system Home Depot sells.

I will have to call a plumber pretty soon to replace the valve and run the pipes up to the shower head. I'm just trying to do as much of the work myself as possible to keep the cost down.
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Old 01-29-2016, 10:06 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chakotay View Post
My plan is to build the curb, pour a pre-slope, lay the liner, then pour the pan. All this using the "goof-proof" system Home Depot sells.

I will have to call a plumber pretty soon to replace the valve and run the pipes up to the shower head. I'm just trying to do as much of the work myself as possible to keep the cost down.
what do you mean by " pour a pan?" what are you using for a drain strainer?
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Old 01-29-2016, 10:53 AM   #19
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"Pour" may not be correct technical term ... it's just what I've read and heard guys on the 'net call the process. I mean to sculpt the pan out of mud/mortar.
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Old 01-29-2016, 11:32 AM   #20
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usually, I install the pvc liner over tar paper on the sub floor, and the concrete goes in the pan and slanted down to the drain....
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Old 01-29-2016, 01:11 PM   #21
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I take it you're in the "pre-slopes are unnecessary" camp? Apparently it's something of a debated issue, with some utilizing pre-slopes under the liner and some not.

I'd appreciate any feedback this forum has to offer.
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Old 01-29-2016, 02:04 PM   #22
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here is my thinking..the thicker the concrete in one mass the stronger..so now you pre slop, put liner down and add more concrete, that is separated by a slippery surface, that weakens the total mass and could crack...Ive only be putting down lead and pvc liners for about 35 plus years and havnt got a call back or report of leaks yet...

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Old 02-12-2016, 10:45 PM   #23
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Sooooo....
I didn't feel comfortable enough with the plumbing aspects to tackle it myself. Not having personal experience with any plumbers in the area, we searched the local neighborhood forums and got the recommendation of a local guy. Paid him to move the drain to the center, and install a new valve, pipes, ect... I was at work while he did this so I did't see the result until I got home. It all seems OK . . .








Until THIS . . .




He connected the 2" drain to the 2" P-trap with 1-1/2" pipe. WTF!!!!!!
When I called him up to ask about it, he tells me that technically only the P-Trap and after needs to be 2". Says that he can put me in touch with a master plumber to confirm.

Am I going crazy, or just missing something here?
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:18 PM   #24
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LOL..you got fked....2 inch all the way is needed for a shower...stop payment on that check...he didnt want to have to change the trap , so he tied in where the old trip lever was..
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Old 02-13-2016, 12:29 AM   #25
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(Sigh) Just goes to show if you want something done right you have to do it yourself. No more "professionals" for me. Thankfully I have forums like this.

So what do I need to do? Tear out the old p-trap, run 2" to the new drain location and create a new P-trap there? I guess I have to buy a new flange as the new one is all glued to 1-1/2" adapters.

Does the rest of the stuff he did look right?
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Old 02-13-2016, 06:30 AM   #26
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Yes, you need to cut out the old trap----then pipe 2" to the new P-trap location--

An Please use a pre-slope---I've demoed enough saturated pans that I will never think of building one without a pre-slope.

Have you considered a Hydroban shower? Latacrete has good videos on that type of waterproofing.
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Old 02-13-2016, 06:35 AM   #27
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That guy was not trained in plumbing----

Just a heads up----he left the test plug in the mixer valve---withou installing the actual valve cartridge--you will get 'crossover' and your hot and cold water will mix---

It's a shame you fell into the hands of someone with no knowledge of modern plumbing.
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Old 02-13-2016, 07:33 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chakotay View Post
(Sigh) Just goes to show if you want something done right you have to do it yourself. No more "professionals" for me. Thankfully I have forums like this.

So what do I need to do? Tear out the old p-trap, run 2" to the new drain location and create a new P-trap there? I guess I have to buy a new flange as the new one is all glued to 1-1/2" adapters.

Does the rest of the stuff he did look right?
you can salvage the strainer, just cut the reducer off..since you have to cut the trap off it is better to have it right under the strainer.....easy peasy....
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Old 02-13-2016, 09:10 AM   #29
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Quote:
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Just a heads up----he left the test plug in the mixer valve---withou installing the actual valve cartridge--you will get 'crossover' and your hot and cold water will mix---

Yes, We've already experienced that! Had to go up and buy a cartridge cause our showers were room temperature (after I texted the guy to ask what was wrong.)
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Old 02-13-2016, 10:05 AM   #30
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Ok, so the plan is just that: Run 2" to the trap. How deep does the P-trap need to be under the strainer? Just enough to make a slope?

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