Reuse Existing Mud Bed For New Porcelain Tile? - Kitchen & Bath Remodeling - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron6519 View Post
Refinishing the current tub will be a mistake you will hate yourself for.

So true.
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Old 07-04-2011, 09:13 AM   #17
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Alright, now you guys have me thinking about a new tub. The main reason we wanted to keep our current one is that it is a little narrower (28 3/4" wide in the middle and even less on the sides), which gives us a more space in the bathroom. The drain is also at 13 1/4" from the wall. Will this even fit up with a new 30" x 60" bathtub? How much work would it be to move all of the plumbing a couple inches?

Our current tub is actually in pretty good shape, except for the base is rough from being cleaned with abrasive cleaners and it really attracts dirt. If we could take care of this issue, we would probably just keep the tub and skip the refinishing.

Last edited by bnmn; 07-04-2011 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 07-04-2011, 11:27 AM   #18
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The only reason we are poking you a bit is that the refinishing doesn't hold up well---so fragile in fact that I will not work in a bathroom with a refinished tub.

With a good helper I can have an old tub out in about an hour and the new one in in about two hours more.--depending on what condition the old plumbing is in.

It's your house---I like to do a completely new bathroom----but that's me.

Tub replacement is quite the mystery the first time---after that it's rather routine.---Mike----

I build bathrooms a lot--17 last year---only 4 so far this year.(although one was 360 sf)----Mike----
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:11 PM   #19
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Well I made the decision to keep the existing bathtub and have been moving along...slowly. Progress was nearly zero for two weeks due to evening classes and a 3 day family reunion. My cousin was able to help me with the new shower valve and moving the sink, so I'm finally to the point where I can start rebuilding. On to the questions...

What would be the best way to finish this corner where the drywall and tile meet? I plan to tile all the way to the edge with bullnose tile, but I'm not sure how exactly that corner will work out yet (first time tiling - anything). As you can see I cut out about four feet of the metal corner strip because it was all corroded and I have a new piece ready to put in. What is the best way to handle an outside corner where drywall and tile meet?



On other thing....will it be a big deal if I don't have my "Backer-On" screws absolutely flush? I'm having a helluva time getting them all the way in there. btw, I plan to use Redgard for waterproofing.

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Old 07-20-2011, 08:56 PM   #20
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Let's start with the tile and the outside corner.

The bull nose goes right to the edge--then the tile starts--Let's hope the outside corner is plumb or you will have to do some 'fudgeing' to correct that .

Get the backer screws flush,even if you must bang them in with a hammer.

You need a flat wall.

When you have your tile and caps on site you will do a layout to give you the best looking wall possible.

Let us know if you are going all the way to the ceiling or stopping below with a row of caps.
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:52 AM   #21
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Thanks Mike. So I can just put a new corner piece on the lower portion of the wall, screw down and mud the drywall side and leave the tile side alone until I install the tile? Should I screw the corner strip to the backer board? I'm worried they will be too close to the edge of the board.

I don't plan to tile all the way to the ceiling. There will be a row of bullnose tiles running just about the shower head.
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:57 AM   #22
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After a couple of weekends out of town, I'm ready to make some real progress. I have the tub surround waterproofed with Redgard and I've started laying the floor tile.





I have a question before I start on the wall tile. After making sure every nook and cranny on the walls was waterproofed with Redgard, it occurred to me that there are gaps around the shower valve and tub spout rough-ins. Should I caulk the edge between the plastic surrounding the shower valve and the backer board? What about the tub faucet? Will I seal around that when I install the faucet?



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Old 08-19-2011, 08:14 AM   #23
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Don't worry about the valve opening---and don't caulk in the plastic cover---

The decorative metal cover has a rubber gasket --that will seal the hole just fine.
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Old 08-20-2011, 07:30 AM   #24
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Got it. I started tiling the walls and am now to a point that I knew was going to be an issue - about 1/8" difference in thickness between the porcelain tile and glass accent tile. Mike, I read in an older thread that you sometimes use strips of FRP board to make up the difference. Do you just apply thinset on either side of the board before setting the tile?

The glass tile I am using is brown and slightly translucent. Will gray versabond thinset be ok or should I go out and find some different thinset for the glass tiles?

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Old 08-20-2011, 08:14 AM   #25
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Always use white behind glass tile---

Here is a method that works well for the thinner accent tiles--and will give you a nice even opening.

Put a temporary filler into the accent space--and get all the field tiles set first.

I cut strips of scrap plywood the width of the accent tile and grout lines----then finish installing the field tile above the temporary filler.

After the tile is set-remove the filler--trowel in some white thinset and smooth with a flat putty knife---this will raise the backing for the thinner tiles---when set--remove any rough or high spots with sand paper--then set the tiles.

The FRP has worked for me,however it is not an approved method so you might want to skip that one and try the method above.---

Bud and Jaz (and the new tile guy)should have a suggestion or two----Let's see what they have to say---
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