The Proper Way To Do Bathroom Walls? - Kitchen & Bath Remodeling - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

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Old 06-16-2013, 06:30 AM   #16
Bill Kearney
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Originally Posted by Mistifire View Post
The joists are 2 x 8, 16" apart and only one area of the basement is unfinished but it looks like about 13' we can see the top of the load bearing wall and it is where the joists are joined.

I checked out the calculator and I don't think it will give an accurate answer, the bathroom is located above a load bearing wall and it doesn't take that into consideration, we will be removing the old cast bathtub too, that has to be like 300lbs.

The message at the bottom says to post on the forum you posted above and they will do calculations if there are other walls or beams to consider, so I will do that too.
You think the calculator isn't accurate, I wouldn't go betting against it. Taking away a fixed weight is one thing, but deflection is also about how the structure handles the weight of people moving on it. It's not as big a factor but not one to ignore either.

You're right now stuck in a bad place, one where reality and money are headed for a conflict. You have to decide if you want to get it done right or get it done right now. Because doing it 'right now' will likely end up costing double when you get around to 'doing it right'.

There's an old saying "good, fast or cheap... pick two". It applies well here. Do it inexpensively and fast and it won't be any good. Do it good and on a tight budget and it'll take a while. The only way to get it done quickly is spend a lot for a decent job.

I ran into this problem with our old bath. I opted to take more time and do it properly as budgets allowed. Two years time. Lesson learned but satisfied with a job well done.
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:42 PM   #17
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The window is new as of last month, and the plumbing in the whole house has been changed to copper years ago with the exception of the pipes that go to that bathroom oddly enough. We were considering replacing them but have no experience with copper plumbing.

The mixer valve is one of the first things we did once there was a hole in the wall and we used a tap on the ends of the old pipes to redo the connection point.

We are planning on putting up insulation.

A complete gut job involves removing all the stuff on the walls and ceiling and replacing it, framing and filling in the window and re framing a new window of a different size and redoing the siding on the whole house and garage to match.....we have no experience with any of this and siding is outside of our budget especially since the siding that is on it now is fine.

I'm not familiar with mud set floor, or 'Jersey Mud Set' method but like I said in my first post, I want to do this the right way.
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Old 06-16-2013, 04:16 PM   #18
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You are doing your homework,that's important---

Sweating copper is not all that difficult for most handy people---and there are alternate materials---PEX---CPVC---come to mind---and Shark Bite fittings--

I'm not allowed to use any of those because of our old fashioned codes---but you might be able to---

On thing the span charts do not cover well is the older--larger dimension wood used in the older homes---measure the joists---modern wood 2x8s are 1 1/2 x7 1/4-----see if yours are larger---if so add some to the deflection chart---
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
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