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Old 01-06-2016, 08:23 AM   #1
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Joining particleboard Substrate before laminating How do I prepare joint?


I am replacing a kitchen counter top because water got to the particleboard under the sink and it has swelled and rotted. It has been in place since 1969! I understand the whole laminating process with the contact cement, the question i have is i need to have a 121 inch substrate. When you doing them together (butt Ends) do i need to fill the joint with something? If so what do i use?

Thanks!

So many projects so little time!

Dave
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Old 01-06-2016, 09:13 AM   #2
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If the joint is done properly there should be no gap to fill.I use biscuits and glue in the center of the board and 2 draw bolts on the bottom.
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Old 01-06-2016, 09:15 AM   #3
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Better to use plywood or at least OSB for the substrate, particleboard is too prone to swell and deterioration when it gets wet. I like 3/4 inch A-C plywood, biscuited at the joints.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:04 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman View Post
Better to use plywood or at least OSB for the substrate, particleboard is too prone to swell and deterioration when it gets wet. I like 3/4 inch A-C plywood, biscuited at the joints.
Daniel, Wouldnt OSB be to rough for the laminate to adhere to?

If i dont have a bisquit joiner is there another suggestion? I am not against buying one if i know i will use it again in the future...hey i just bought my first router after 50 years! :-)
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:48 AM   #5
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You can use Kreg screws, splines, dowels, or you can use a variety of router bits that make special joint shapes. The biscuit jointer happens to be fast and reliable, but certainly not the only way to join wood.
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Old 01-06-2016, 11:04 AM   #6
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.If you have a router I would use a slotting bit and spline.
I agree that osb would be a bad choice.I don't actually use particle board but a mdf board which is made for commercial cabinet shops in sheets 30" X120" but it's the same concept. Personally never liked laminate on plywood as is to unstable and will cup and bow.JMHO as many people do use it.
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Old 01-06-2016, 11:16 AM   #7
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There are thousands of posts on the net from people dissing the particle board family of products for laminate countertops.The fact is that it is flat and smooth.The exact properties you want for a laminate to adhere to.If your sink is installed properly there is no reason for the surrounding edge of the PB to ever see moisture.
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Old 01-06-2016, 11:18 AM   #8
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My choice would be to bore for pocket screws, size the joint but let it dry about 10-15 minutes ( depending on humidity ) rather than 2-3 hours. Then re-glue liberally and assemble with the final screw torque being by hand and just enough squeeze to see a little glue line squeeze out.

OSB for me.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/19712

Last edited by SeniorSitizen; 01-06-2016 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 01-06-2016, 11:26 AM   #9
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Sizing the joint is a very good idea when working with PB and something I forgot in my post.The edges of that stuff can really suck up the glue.I suggested a spline with your router as much for alignment as structural strength . Alignment may be tricky with pocket holes on a 25" wide substrate.
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Old 01-06-2016, 11:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mako1 View Post
There are thousands of posts on the net from people dissing the particle board family of products for laminate countertops.The fact is that it is flat and smooth.The exact properties you want for a laminate to adhere to.If your sink is installed properly there is no reason for the surrounding edge of the PB to ever see moisture.
His sink has been in for 46 years and even plumber's eventually fails.
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Old 01-06-2016, 11:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeniorSitizen View Post
His sink has been in for 46 years and even plumber's eventually fails.
+1 Cabinetmakers do to eventually.
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Old 01-08-2016, 05:31 AM   #12
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MAKO1 my wife is gonna be mad at you... i keep thinking i WANT a Plate Joiner now and Mernards has the Porter Cable on sale, plus the 15% off bag sale.... The temptation is so overwhelming LOL
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