It's NOT Supposed To Be "can Of Worms" - Kitchen & Bath Remodeling - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
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Old 03-06-2018, 11:06 PM   #1
CNT
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It's NOT supposed to be "can of worms"




As I am installing new cabinets (both base and wall), I tear out the soffit. I was puzzled why the Electrician didn't do the job right in the first time!? The wires that were hidden in the soffit are short and not through the studs. Now I have to buy some new wires and make some longer wire so I can put drywall up flat. Even the 220V wire (for the electric stove) aren't through the top plate, so I would have to crave a grove to push the thick wire back.

Not only that, the plastic sheet weren't done right. It was cut up and some patched with cardboard sections. Thus, the insulation has signs of black breathing air.

I was planning to tear down the drywall from the wall, but with this wrong doing, it's the reason I have to do more work. So, since I don't want to take out the base cabinets yet, I am going to cut the drywall down to the top of base cabinets, and do work with electrical (longer wires, straighten receptacles all across, add/remove outlets, etc).

While at this topic...

When install new base and wall cabinets, do the wall cabinets goes on first? Like 54" from the floor to bottom of wall cabinets? Or the base goes in first, then 19-1/2" (since no countertop yet) to the wall cabinets?

The new wall cabinets are 12" deep. The original was 15" deep and the microwave fits right in perfectly (with the top vent opening). I wonder how it's going to look now with 12" (making the microwave stick out 3")? I did mention that to the retailer designer, she said that many new microwaves are now 12". True? I never paid attention to microwave depth at other people's house, so I wouldn't know? Comments?

Once again, the outlets/switches are to be 4' from floor to top of junction box. Right?

Depends, I might use green drywall for the sink area. Anyways, should I use Gardz for the primer? Gardz just for the sink area and the rest regular Kilz2? At this time, wife wants just paint for backsplash. No tiles. So, Gardz?

OT... I have been using Kilz2 for years and honestly, I don't like this primer. What should I use for primer? Price is factor too.

When I look at Home Depot (and Lowe's too), they have Zinsser brand primer, but don't have Gardz? Zinsser makes Gardz. Only Menards carry Gardz. Doesn't matter to me what store, but just wonder why HD not have that? Again, when I ask the employee there, he lead me right to Kilz Klear primer in place of Gardz, again, Kilz brand which I am trying to avoid.

The biggest challenge for me here is to mud between the existing ceiling (with sand) and the new ceiling. Sir MixAlot... comon over to my house and do that ceiling! Call it... "From Florida With Love"

Chuck
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Old 03-06-2018, 11:20 PM   #2
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Re: It's NOT supposed to be "can of worms"


You have not found anything out of normal for older houses. When they first started using poly they never used tape. The electrician always uses drops like that, the thinking was no one would ever take them down.
It is easier to hang the uppers first so you can get under them when lifting them into place.
One trick for the microwave it to add the finished sides to that box and pull it forward a few inches. But there are pit falls to watch out for when you do that too.
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Old 03-06-2018, 11:48 PM   #3
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Re: It's NOT supposed to be "can of worms"


I've never used moisture resistant drywall around a kitchen sink, or any special primer. I have used Gardz before to improve adhesion to surfaces like panelling, but it isn't necessary for new drywall. I'd just use the drywall primer of your choice. I just use PVA primer.

Looks like typical remodelling to me.
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Old 03-07-2018, 08:16 AM   #4
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Re: It's NOT supposed to be "can of worms"


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You have not found anything out of normal for older houses.
I guess so... this house was build in 1970s, so I kinda expect a little code-kicking in there by that time?

Quote:
Looks like typical remodeling to me.
Indeed.
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Old 03-07-2018, 08:23 AM   #5
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Re: It's NOT supposed to be "can of worms"


[QUOTE=CNT;5251433]I guess so... this house was build in 1970s, so I kinda expect a little code-kicking in there by that time?
It's not illegal to run wires inside a soffit like that. Just human nature to cut a corner and not have to drill another hole. I've installed a lot of kitchens and I always discuss in detail with customers before tearing soffits out on what they can expect to find inside.
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Old 03-07-2018, 04:16 PM   #6
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Re: It's NOT supposed to be "can of worms"


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Originally Posted by CNT View Post
The new wall cabinets are 12" deep. The original was 15" deep and the microwave fits right in perfectly (with the top vent opening). I wonder how it's going to look now with 12" (making the microwave stick out 3")? I did mention that to the retailer designer, she said that many new microwaves are now 12". True? I never paid attention to microwave depth at other people's house, so I wouldn't know?
My Panosonic is designed to fit under 12" cabinets, so it looks fine under 12" cabinets. The microwave is about 15" deep, but made to look proper when protruding a little.
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Old 03-09-2018, 10:15 AM   #7
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Re: It's NOT supposed to be "can of worms"








Previously, the light was just under the soffit and the wall cabinets were 15" deep (and 30" tall). Now, the soffit is gone and the new wall cabinets will be 12" deep. The wall cabinets will be 36" tall so upon installing 'em, it would leave 6" opening to the ceiling (without crown mold... which would then add maybe another 1-1/2" or 2" more, making it 4" opening.. hope that wouldn't look funny?).

Right now, I am in needing to decide how I would want the new sink light to be installed. As in first photo, the ceiling beam is right in the middle of the window/sink. Looks like the only option I have is to use the beam box (photo 2/3).

Question: how far from the wall should the new light be? Middle (6")? Or more further away from the wall, like 8" or 10"? What is common trends for the sink light position (with those openings between wall cabinets and ceiling)? I don't even know what kind of light to put there since it's a different junction box I am used to working with. I don't think I would be able to use a (LED) Recessed light with that kind of junction box.

As you can see the photo 3, not much room to cram in all those wires.

Is there anything else I can use for that spot? Suggestions?

Thank you.
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Old 03-11-2018, 03:19 PM   #8
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Re: It's NOT supposed to be "can of worms"


Quote:
Question: how far from the wall should the new light be?
.....
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Old 03-12-2018, 12:07 AM   #9
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Re: It's NOT supposed to be "can of worms"


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.....
Don't know if there is a rule, I would be 12 to 16" from the wall.
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Old 03-12-2018, 12:27 AM   #10
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Re: It's NOT supposed to be "can of worms"


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Don't know if there is a rule, I would be 12 to 16" from the wall.
I will go with 12" then. Thanks.
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