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Old 09-07-2015, 10:14 PM   #1
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How to repair tiled shower drain leak


About a week ago I noticed the shower drain was leaking from the walk-in shower above as seen in the first picture. I removed the old drain and noticed a few issues. First, it looks like pea gravel wasn't used because the weep holes were full of grout... not mortar but white sanded grout. I scraped out old grout and caulk out from the inside. I'm not sure why or how that happened. Second, because of how the water is building up, it appears the shower pan liner may not have been installed correctly.

Here's my dilemma, is there a "quick" fix for this? My plan was to remodel this bathroom sometime early next year so I'd like to avoid demoing the floor if possible.

Could I simply pour in a little mortar (or thin set?) and use the new screw in upper drain replacement (seen in last picture) and caulk around where it meets the tiles after letting everything dry out or should I cut out the tiles and replace them with something similar until I do the remodel next year?
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:40 PM   #2
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Sorry, but I don't see a fix for this at all. The PVC/ABS pipe issue aside.
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:49 AM   #3
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How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

I agree with Ron, the liner is leaking----the tile is not waterproof ---the liner is--
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:23 AM   #4
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Thanks guys, there's more to it. Not only is the PVC to ABS transition probably not correct, the bottom of the P-trap looks like someone accidently burned it with a torch. I was planning to redo everything with PVC when I do the full remodel next year. Also, notice the nice the placement of the electrical wire running across right under the drain...

OK, so can I demo down to the liner, replace it and then pour a new mud bed, let try then tile with thin set or do I need to go all the way down to the subfloor and rebuild everything per the link provided?
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:45 AM   #5
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Before deciding on a pipe choice, I'd see what the code is for your. region. The code dictates one or the other, usually not both pipe materials.
I'd look into the Schlutter system for the shower base. Much more user friendly for the uninitiated.
With the base redo, the base products run up the wall, not just the floor.
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Old 09-08-2015, 02:57 PM   #6
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Whatever you choose---the pan must start at the subfloor---the Schluter pans use a surface membrane on top of the styrofoam tray---

The traditional pan in my link needs a sloped mortar bed under the liner--then sloped dack mud for the tile.
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Old 09-08-2015, 03:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Whatever you choose---the pan must start at the subfloor---the Schluter pans use a surface membrane on top of the styrofoam tray--
The tray sits on the subfloor.
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:05 PM   #8
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This thread should be renamed to "how not to build a shower pan". Here's some pictures after doing the demo. Where to begin... it starts with a 1/2" sheet of CBU with gaps around the base and nailed down with non-galvanized nails (or if they were they are rusted out pretty bad) to the subfloor. The shower liner went over this and there were 2 tears right where you can see the water damage on the subfloor from underneath causing the leaks. They look liked clean razor blade cuts. None of the corners were taped or filled and the cement board at the base was soaking wet even after a week of the shower not being used. The best part about the whole thing is the tile spacers that were left in EVERY INTERSECTION of tile. Yes, I pulled out about 30 of these things during the demo. My favorite is in the picture below which was behind the entire tile.
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How to repair tiled shower drain leak-1.jpg   How to repair tiled shower drain leak-2.jpg   How to repair tiled shower drain leak-3.jpg   How to repair tiled shower drain leak-5.jpg   How to repair tiled shower drain leak-8.jpg  

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Old 09-10-2015, 06:55 PM   #9
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Yuck---That is about as bad as they come----I'll bet it smells like a bad gym shoe.
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:59 PM   #10
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The ABS to PVC isn't necessarily incorrect. As long as they used transition glue the joint should be fine.

I would replace with a Kerdi Shower pan and curb. Since you are replacing the drain line any way you have several options.
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