Direct To Stud Bath And Tub Green Board Finishing Tips And Tricks? - Kitchen & Bath Remodeling - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:35 PM   #1
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Direct to stud bath and tub green board finishing tips and tricks?


After spending the majority of my 10 hr shift at work scouring my new favorite web site for an aswer I decided to ask. Currently replacing tub with new tub and showerwalls with with a direct to stud tub and showerwalls kit. My plan if acceptable was to use green board for the two foot section of wall above the plastic walls. My concern after reading on here was whether the greens board ran just to the nailing flange or over the flange to the lip of the wall? How do I finish this area? Im not a total newbie @dry wall finishing as I've done several room to my satisfaction but please do treat me as one so I miss no steps. This project has thrown several curve balls at me but have taken most in stride. Thank you in advance for your replies!!!!
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:54 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forums!

More info would help.... Manufacturer of the kit? Usually the board is run over the lip, either recess the board back-side or furr to level plain the rest of the studs connected to the lip. Above/below grade bathroom?

Did you "search" our site here--- in the white box above each page, this has been covered many times previously...

Gary
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:16 PM   #3
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I add lattis to the studs so the board does not bow out where the lip is.
Set the drywall about 1/4 from the top of the unit and use caulking to fill the gap/ I use Alex 230. It's good caulking and is paintable.
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:32 PM   #4
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Yes sir searched the forums! I spent the better part of my 10hr shift fri cruzing my new favorite site!!! The tub and showerI is peerless "selva" I have plenty of paneling that I tore out n after hours of contemplation thought I may try to use that to fur up with. I'll let u know if it works. But my wife n I are fighting the battle of un unsgare walls out if plum studs and an unlevel floor. We are working from the ground up going slow and solving one problem at a time. Ung not much fun buts its coming together ........hopefully by the the end of tomorrow i'll have tub and walls in. Oh yeah gotta rework the plumbing too. Have 3/8 soft copper line running there and replacing with 1/2" cpvc. PRAY FOR ME PLEASE!!!


Thank-you very much
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:02 AM   #5
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I'll second the recommendation about using some sort of shim on the face of the studs where you want to install drywall over the flange. If you install directly over the flange without shimming, you'll get a noticeable bow in the rock and ugly inside corners. Cutting out a little of the rock where it overlaps the flange is also an option, but I wouldn't recommend it because it weakens the material.
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