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Old 04-01-2015, 09:15 PM   #1
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Corner Shower Remodel


I'm halfway through installing a corner shower kit (purchased at Home Depot) in my new bathroom. The base is installed, set in mortar and screwed into the studs. We moved onto installing the walls which are designed to be glued to the drywall. However, we just realized the walls are not plumb or square so the walls do not line up at all.

To salvage this project we considered tiling the walls instead so we don't have to rip out the base or green board and start over. BUT everything I've read says green board is the worst thing to use in a shower surround. Is there any way I can fix this without having to back track?

Waterproof the green board before installing cement board over it? Kerdi membrane? I attached pictures.

Any advice is appreciated!
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Corner Shower Remodel-shower-1.jpg   Corner Shower Remodel-shower-2.jpg   Corner Shower Remodel-shower-3.jpg  
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:07 AM   #2
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100% sure that pan was not suposted to be attached to the studs not in front of the backer like that?
I've always used galvinized roofing nails, not screws, the screw heads can stick out to far and cause humps.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:11 AM   #3
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Wondering if it would work to attach tile backer (cement board ) over the drywall to the top edge of the flange. Tile the wall. Run moulding up the sides and across the top to conceal the tile backer.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:11 AM   #4
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Mind you if your walls are not level this may mess up your doors also.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:41 AM   #5
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Joecaption - Yes this is exactly how the base is intended to be installed. We followed the directions to the T. It is supposed to be in front of the backer board because the walls are designed to be glued to the drywall. The kit came with flat screws for installing the base so there would be not humps.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:44 AM   #6
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mae-ling - This kit does not come with doors. It came with a curved shower curtain rod.

If I install cement board over top of the green board, should I put a vapor barrier in between the two first? Or do something to waterproof the green board? My fear is that water will get into or behind the cement board somewhere and ruin the green board.
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:10 PM   #7
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Doing some further reading and it is not recommended to put cement baord over green board.

You may have to cut out the drywall, move the base and reinstall.
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:35 PM   #8
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put kerdi on there. your only problem is the non flat walls. if you use small tiles, they will "go with the flow" no problems. if you use larger tiles, you have to bee pretty carefull when putting them on = some areas will take very little mortar, other areas will need a lot. to make the wall flat.

oh, you other problem, is the lip on the pan. you will have to figure a way to get the tiles to go over that and keep a flat wall. so you may need to build up the mortar a lil to bring the tiles out.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:25 PM   #9
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Fixin-it: The walls have to be built out. There's no way I can just use Kerdi on the green board because the tiles will never clear the flange. Should I kerdi the green board then put cement board over top? I would then tile the cement board.

There no way I can remove the green board because the base is installed over it. I can't remove the base because it was set in wet mortar. It would ruin the base to take it up and that's not an option. I realize this is less than ideal, but there has to be a way to salvage this!
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:36 AM   #10
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What is the panels like are they 1/4" are they plastic like the base with groove to lock the panels together
Can you fur the shower panels out? Cause the only part that touches the wall is the top part of the panels than you can overlay the drywall you have put up and it will cover the lip of the panel. that's the way it should be done anyway
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:58 AM   #11
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We just tore out our corner shower from H.D. ....junk, only lasted a few years and the door and glass panels started to corrode and leak. Wife hated it because it was too hard to clean.
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Old 04-07-2015, 05:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beward View Post
There no way I can remove the green board because the base is installed over it.
Why can't you cut the green board right at or slightly above the top of the base flange and remove it all except what's behind the base? Then replace with same-thickness cement board? Still not "ideal" but if you properly overlap the flange with your tile and caulk at the bottom, leakage or wicking shouldn't be a problem.

Personally, I think you've already put too much effort into such a cheap piece of junk shower you'll be tearing out in a few years. But that's just me.

Last edited by md2lgyk; 04-07-2015 at 05:20 AM.
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Old 04-10-2015, 03:51 PM   #13
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I hate to say it but the best fix for your problem is to tear out those nicely taped drywall sections and shim out the wall studs so that wall board will be plumb and square to the base. If you are using the wall panels that came with it, you can use dry wall. You can also use cement board or some other tile backer. If you decide to go with tile than it must be a tile backer board.

It sounds like your corner base is already set in mortar so that will have to be what you align the new walls to. It works best to sister 2 x 4's onto your existing wall studs to shim the original studs out.
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beward View Post
Fixin-it: The walls have to be built out. There's no way I can just use Kerdi on the green board because the tiles will never clear the flange.

Should I kerdi the green board then put cement board over top? I would then tile the cement board.
just how far out is that flange ? doesn't look like much from the pics.

installed kerdi takes up space. as does the thinset that holds the tiles on.

take a tile and set it on the flange and wall = take pic and post it.

Last edited by Fix'n it; 04-11-2015 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim F View Post
If you decide to go with tile than it must be a tile backer board.

.
wrong = kerdi
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