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Old 05-18-2020, 09:38 PM   #1
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Cabinet Makeover


without buying new doors, i'd like to repurpose these cabinets because they are free and its for a rental..... would like them to look modern with these pulls.. Any ideas on how to do this with white paint and pulls? I can add accent trim, etc. Love Shakers but i'd think it would require a new door.. Thanks
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Old 05-19-2020, 05:39 AM   #2
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Re: Cabinet Makeover


pics ???
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:29 AM   #3
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Thank you
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Old 05-19-2020, 10:34 AM   #4
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Re: Cabinet Makeover


Those look easily paintable, and if you're good you could even fill the holes before painting and drill for 2-screw handles if you want.
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Old 05-19-2020, 11:04 AM   #5
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Repainting white

I’d like to retrain the front to like contemporary modern
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Old 05-19-2020, 11:10 AM   #6
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Supposed to say repaint to look modern without replacing the door
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Old 05-19-2020, 01:24 PM   #7
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Re: Cabinet Makeover


To paint them I'd; sand lightly and apply a solvent based primer and then apply 2 coats of your choice of enamel [latex, oil base or waterborne] sanding between coats and wiping off the sanding dust.
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Old 05-20-2020, 07:22 PM   #8
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Re: Cabinet Makeover


To paint with Enamel Latex paint. (Same with oil based, but with oil you have more options for sanding between coat.)


If you decide on Water Base Enamel:
* Wash with TSP or equivalent. Make sure their is no grease remaining.
* Sand with 100 grit then finish with 120 grit. On flat surface, a 1/4 sheet or an orbital sander help a lot.
* If it is still shiny and it look like the sand paper can't go true (like in some detail area)... Use a "Deglosser": Protect yourself, this thing is a real chemical.
* Use something like DAP plastic wood to fill any hole.

* Because this seems to be oak, I will go with a shellac base primer to block the tannin -- this is important if you want to paint white (else it may turn more orange over time). Zinsser B-I-N primer will do it (SW have a version too). This is alcohol based, so you need to purchase some alcohol to clean your tools.
* If you don't want to use a Shellac base primer: Think only about oil based primer (no water base primer stick so well to polyurethane). EX: Zinsser will do.
* Sand as smooth as you want now™ (at the primer phase). If it is not smooth enough for your licking, put another coat of primer and sand again.
* Not smooth enough: Some primer are better then other to fill the pore of the wood. You may try SW Easy Sand Primer or SW Sandable Urethane Primer.

(IMPORTANT: In Latex, Sherwin Williams Wall and Wood is an excellent sandable primer. But, you need a least a coat of Shellac or Oil base primer before using it).



* When the wood finish is to your licking, you may apply your favorite latex enamel. I have use many brand and they generally work good. Latex Enamel Acrylic paint with or without some polyurethane give a very durable finish.



NOTE1: YOU SHOULD NOT SAND, NEITHER TRY to SAND most Acrylic based paint. It just does not work.



NOTE2: Some Acrylic paint are notoriously difficult to apply in very hot places. If you want to paint outside in a sunny place, especially with an AIR Sprayer... it might not be a very good idea. (make a test)



Final NOTE: Most Latex Enamel take about 20 days to fully cure. You may use the cabinet after a few days but be gentle with all surface for several more days.



Of course, with a spray gun, you can get very professional result. Even with an Airless sprayer with a fine tip (like Graco FFLP 310 or 312), you can get professional grade.
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Old 05-21-2020, 05:45 AM   #9
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Re: Cabinet Makeover


Quote:
YOU SHOULD NOT SAND, NEITHER TRY to SAND most Acrylic based paint. It just does not work

While deep/hard sanding won't work, a light scuff sand between coats is almost always a good idea.
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Old 05-21-2020, 03:10 PM   #10
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Re: Cabinet Makeover


Quote:
Originally Posted by mark sr View Post
While deep/hard sanding won't work, a light scuff sand between coats is almost always a good idea.

We are talking about WaterBorn paint and Acrylic more specifically.



A very light scuff -- more like removing a little bit of dust insert. Generally, anymore then that and your sand paper will be clogged in minutes. If I found a visible defect, I will certainly try to sand it away -- but their is limit to what can be done.



You can't easily remove brush or roller mark or any others defect. If you notice a defect when the paint is wet and you can't correct it with a Roller/Brush... it is time to use a rag and remove the paint before it dry.



Dripping Paint is more of a concern with an HVLP Sprayer (with diluted paint). When I spray cabinet with Latex Paint, I generally look with a flashlight every 5 minutes for 15 to 45 minutes (depending on temperature) to make sure there is no dripping paint. If I found any, I try to correct them with a roller. If they are on a highly visible flat panel and I discover them fast enough, I often use a rag an remove all the paint and spray back the panel.



This is true of most acrylic Latex paint like SW All Surface Enamel or Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Interior Waterbased Acrylic-Alkyd or Emerald Interior Acrylic Latex Paint.



This is also true with some exterior acrylic latex paint such as SW SuperPaint or WeatherClad. [I just finish cleaning a door protected by WeatherClad in 2009 (11 years ago) and even the angle grinder with a steel brush was taking for ever to dull and remove it. I finish with chemical paint remover, the only workable options I have found.]



I never used SW Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel, so I can't comment.


I have use a few others brand of Acrylic paint and they can't be sanded either. So, if the paint to be use is Acrylic based, I will certainly do a test before committing to sand a large, flat and visible surface (like a door panel).



I am not necessary a fan boy of SW. However, I talk about these specifics paint because I use them in the last 6 months. Therefore, their formulation is likely the same now then when I last use them.


Finally, with many of the acrylic paints, a very small defect™ might disappear after a few weeks of curing. I am not too sure how it work and the effect is more noticeable with some paint then others. Once, after spraying several cabinet with SW ProClassic, I was finding the finish "rough" (not as bad as Brush or Roller mark, but not 100% smooth either). A month later, the finish was perfectly smooth.
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