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Old 04-04-2011, 05:10 PM   #1
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Bathroom tile installation


I decided to install new tiles in my bathroom and while installing the backer board I notice one of the walls in the bathroom is slightly slanted. If I rectify this problem then the backer board will be sticking about 1 inch in the top of the shower. If I don't correct this problem I will have an awful gap in the corner of that wall. I would like to have my walls straight so the tile installation look nice but i don't know how to correct the problem in the top. Any ideas? Thanks
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:15 PM   #2
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sorry...need a pic or diagram for this one
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:35 PM   #3
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Hopefully these pictures will show the problem.
The first one show the wall and corner I am having problem. The panel that is slanted is the right side. When I say the panel is slanted is the actual stud that seem to be slanted.
The second picture shows the wall if the panel is straight and the third is with the panel flat against the studs. Hope this helps. Thanks.

Last edited by demolition; 04-04-2011 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:38 AM   #4
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How to install all types of tile- FROM GLASSTILEDECOR.COM

Installing Glass Tile

Tools Recommended by
  • Glass tile
  • Tile adhesive(thin set)
  • Trowel
  • grout
  • float (Gum Rubber Float or Green Epoxy Float)
  • Level
  • Oversized Hydraphiliated polyester sponge
  • Clean bucket
  • Glass Mosaic Tile Nippers/wheel or diamond wet saw
  • White mortar with latex
  • Do not use multi-purpose or regular thinset mortars or any type of mastic as this may result in failure.
You want to make sure that the surface to be tiled is dry, clean, treated for moisture and dimensionally stable. All contaminants must be removed with Grout and tile cleaner, or by chipping ,sanding, or scraping debris. A waterproof patching compound should be used to patch any imperfections in the floor. If Tiling a backsplash, make sure all switch plates and electrical covers are removed. If you are installing the tile in a wet location like a shower you must use a waterproof membrane.
To set guides for laying out the tile, snap chalk lines with a 90 degree intersection, preferably in the center of the room. For wall layout, use a level to draw a line at the desired height. Once the level line is determined for one wall, it is determined for the entire room. Remember to leave a ¼” space around all fixtures and edges to allow room for caulking. If your baseboards, counter top or tub is not level, set one tile at the lowest end of your wall and draw a line at the top, this will mark the line of your first row of tile. For wall tile, it is recommended that you nail a thin strip of wood under this line to provide as a benchmark for your row of tiles. You can ‘stack’ you first row of tiles here and prevent slippage.
*Glass tile is recommended for wall use only.
*PLEASE CONSULT THE MANUFACTURER OF GLASS TILE FOR PROPER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, EACH GLASS TILE IS DIFFERENT. gives a general how-to please consult manufacturer for specific instructions.
Arrange and layout your tile patterns exactly how you want it to appear on the wall, this will avoid mistakes and save time. Mix adhesive according to manufacturer’s instructions. If you are tiling an extremely wet areas such as a tub surround, whirlpool decks, ect. A water proof membrane is recommended. It is best to only mix what can be used in 20 -30 minutes to avoid adhesive from during up.
First, apply your adhesive using the flat side of a trowel, at a 45 degree angle, spread the mortar uniformly, DO NOT CREATE A RIDDGED PATTERN- IT WILL SHOW THROUGH THE BACK OF THE GLASS. Instead, create a smooth flat surface to adhere the tile onto. Use only enough adhesive to cover an area that can be tiled in 10 -15 minutes, otherwise, adhesive will dry resulting in removal and restarting of process.
Then, place tiles onto adhesive, using a slight, push of your hand, position tiles into place, avoid sliding the tile, as it will result in shifting the adhesive and creating excess in between the tiles. Often check for straight lines, it is recommended to use tile spacers to insure accurate spacing between each tile. Continue mounting tile in a straight even pattern, Apply subsequent sheets lining up the grout joints from one sheet to another. Any spaces that need to be tiled but are smaller than the square foot provided, cut carefully with glass tile nippers, glass tile wheel or diamond wet saw, CUT CAREFULLY – GLASS IS VERY PRONE TO BREAKABILITY. If your tile is covered in a protective paper covering, wet it a few times over and gently peel it off- After a 10-15 minute period. If your tile is covered in protective plastic, simply peel the plastic off.
24 Hours after setting tile use a nylon brush to scrub off excess adhesive from protective plastic or paper, then wipe with a damp sponge.
After you have applied all of your tile to the wall or floor, WAIT 24 HOURS before grouting.
Mix the grout according to the instructions. Grout should be formed into a tooth paste like consistency.
Remember to use NON Sanded grout for joints, because sanded will scratch the steel surface. After mixture is complete, Spread grout over the tile, using a grout float, ensure that grout evenly fills the crevices of the tile. Allow to set for around 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, remove excess grout from joints using a damp sponge. Wipe away excess grout residue from surface of tiles.
To seal the tiles, it is recommended that you use 100% silicone caulk (white or clear) to apply to the base and corners where the tile meets tile or other surfaces. Caulk around all fixtures, edges and corners to prohibit water into joints.
After the grout has sealed and dried for 72 hours, seal all grout lines with grout sealer to prevent water from corroding the grout over time, and to preserve grout color from any damage or stains.
For maintenance, weekly cleaning of your tile with either a glass tile cleaner or warm soap and water is recommended. Over time, it is recommended that you clean your grout with a grout brush.
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:48 PM   #5
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How to fix slanted wall

Almost every bathroom remodeling job has a similar problem. With age, the structure settles and walls move. One way to fix this problem is to shim the wall back to plumb. This is a lot of work and the drywall panel above the cement board has to be removed and replaced.
Another way is to lay the side of the cement board flush with the side wall and against the studs. When you do this, the bottom of the cement board will not be flat against the tub lip. Scribe the cement board and cut it so that it is now flush with the wall and the tub. Try to cut the cement board so that the top is as close to level as you can get it. Otherwise, you will have to scribe the drywall panel too. You can leave a small gap between the tub lip and cement board. It will be covered with tile and caulk later.
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