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Old 09-23-2014, 09:41 AM   #76
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On the good side - there is a wall right under the first floor joist (where the cut out for the toilet drain is). It houses our fire place and I accessed the framing from the stairwell that goes down into the basement. I have already put some joist in the bathroom and also sistered the center joist (where most of the traffic will be) to give it additional support. I will update with images soon.
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:36 AM   #77
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Not particularly devout, but it's become a habit for a short prayer for small favors.
Bravo for the work!
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:24 AM   #78
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Hey guys. Haven't really had the chance to do much lately. Last weekend we had to attend a funeral (my wife's grandmother passed away unexpectedly) and the weekend before we were attending a wedding. So I was getting in some hours in the bathroom after the boys went to sleep.

I have put in some floor joists to support the floor structurally but also to level out the subfloor that will be put on top. As I mentioned before, right underneath the (now) 3 joist combo with toilet drain there is a wall structure that houses our fireplace - so the ends of the studs rest on part of the wall below. On the outside wall the studs rest on the structural beam. I had to sister the joist on its left side but since the exterior wall stud is taking up the place I had to run another stud in order to make it sit on top of the wall (if that makes sense?). I also ran a few 2x4s in between the joist and the wall to give the 3/4" playwood subfloor more support to rest on.

I began running the plumbing, and YES - I have to switch cold and hot for the sink. They are coming up from the basement conveniently as is (cold left, hot right) - so I will have to switch those.

No plumbing is glued up at this time. The toilet is extended to its final position. The only issue I run in here is, in order to have the appropriate slope for the drain pipe, the toilet flange will sit roughly 1" above to 3/4" subfloor. I am using a Sioux Falls flange on a 90 street elbow (I believe its a street). On top of the 3/4 plywood I will have a layer of thinset, 1/4" hardibacker and then porcelain tile (not quite 1/2"). My best guess is that I will add roughly 3/4" to the height (on top of the 3/4 plywood). I ran into a 45degree toilet flange with another 45 street and it seems to run a little lower than the straight flange/90 street combo. If I am using the wrong terms, I apologize - bear with me

As you can see the tub connects to the 3" drain pipe with a wye connection (Again, I hope thats the correct name). Code here (Ohio) states, that if I use a 1 1/2" drain pipe the fixture needs to be within 3-6 feet to the vent. The tub is exactly 5.5 feet away from the vent - So I should be good, correct?

The sink drain connects to the 3" drain in a 90 elbow and as far as a local retired plumber told me, thats Ok to do. Again, the PVC pipes are not glued up. Once they are, the drain pipe will have a steady slope towards the main drain.

Next thing will be to run the water supply lines to the tub, get everything glued up and test for leaks.

There used to be a register right in the center of the room on the floor. In a wet area I would like to have no register actually located on the floor. Plus, it's where we are going to stand in front of the sink. My plan is to extend the vent and have a wall register on the exterior wall. I understand, I will sacrifice insulation factors due to the register taking up space. I asked a local contractor who told me that in north east Ohio "one is not allowed to run a vent system through an exterior wall" but "a register in the wall is accepted". What is your opinions on this? I really don't want the register on the floor and I would prefer not to have an "angle" register (one that sits on the floor and against the wall)
Attached Thumbnails
Bathroom Remodel 2nd floor-photo-1.jpg   Bathroom Remodel 2nd floor-photo-2.jpg   Bathroom Remodel 2nd floor-photo-3.jpg   Bathroom Remodel 2nd floor-photo-4.jpg  
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Old 10-01-2014, 11:26 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckrohn83 View Post

No plumbing is glued up at this time. The toilet is extended to its final position. The only issue I run in here is, in order to have the appropriate slope for the drain pipe, the toilet flange will sit roughly 1" above to 3/4" subfloor. I am using a Sioux Falls flange on a 90 street elbow (I believe its a street). On top of the 3/4 plywood I will have a layer of thinset, 1/4" hardibacker and then porcelain tile (not quite 1/2"). My best guess is that I will add roughly 3/4" to the height (on top of the 3/4 plywood). I ran into a 45degree toilet flange with another 45 street and it seems to run a little lower than the straight flange/90 street combo. If I am using the wrong terms, I apologize - bear with me
No "Street" elbows used just regular 90 elbows. Its not Sioux "Falls" its Sioux Chief! Sorry for the wrong information.
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