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Old 06-23-2015, 02:30 PM   #31
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Not for now but I'll be sure to ask when I do. Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2015, 03:55 PM   #32
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Can anyone explain me why the builders may have dome the plumbing like this, with a dead enc on both lines?

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Old 06-23-2015, 04:13 PM   #33
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Air gap so you don't get an "air hammer" bang when you shut the valve off.

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Old 06-23-2015, 04:19 PM   #34
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What's an air hammer bang?
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Old 06-23-2015, 06:39 PM   #35
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They are air chambers---they help cushion the water movement when the valve is shut off---something like a shock absorber---(we call them knockers)
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Old 06-23-2015, 08:28 PM   #36
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Air hammer bang happens when your system loses its air cushion over time or when some plumbing work is performed. I'm sure you've heard it at times. It usually happens when a toilet finishes filling and shuts off. You hear a loud noise in the pipes.

You re-establish the air gap/cushion by going through a procedure and it'll go away.

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Old 06-23-2015, 09:32 PM   #37
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How come I never see it on new shower valve jobs? Do I need to keep it when I install my new shower valve?
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:06 AM   #38
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How many new installations have you seen?
Just kidding---here the inspectors require it--so a pro install has them--

The average DIYer does not seem to use them, judging by the pictures we get here--

Most times they aren't missed--because the hammering tends to happen on high volume valves that shut off quickly--like a washing machine---

Should you eliminate them? NO--for the cost of the parts, I sure would not want to take the risk----fixing a bad shower mixer installation could cost thousands if the tile work need to be ripped out.

Pros think like that---what is the cost of doing a job the BEST way--compared to the risk of doing something the cheap way---and having to pay someone to do it over.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:57 AM   #39
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Well I've been watching this tilesman from YouTube called "Tile Master" from Atlanta and he does his own plumbing, none of which includes air cushions.
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:31 PM   #40
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I've seen a few of his videos and am not impressed at all, when it comes to tile installation and especially shower building. If you'd like to give us a link we'll be happy to take a look.

Meanwhile..... I'm not sure since I'm not a plumber, but I don't think every fixture has to have an air chamber/air gap. I think it's a "zone" thing and it's best when it's installed in the highest fixture in the zone.
https://www.google.com/search?q=plum...57qkFqLw%3DJaz

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Old 06-24-2015, 04:41 PM   #41
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Quote:
I've seen a few of his videos and am not impressed at all, when it comes to tile installation and especially shower building. If you'd like to give us a link we'll be happy to take a look.
What exactly would you like a link to? You said you've seen a few of his videos...

I've seen your image but I seriously doubt that shower fixture is installed the highest in the zone (or floor).

I did some more demo with my dad this afternoon. The exterior wall seems to house some sort of polystyrene insulation with a silver sheet over it (possibly what was considered a vapour barrier in 1972 when the home was built). We took that out since it surely isn't code/doesn't provide a great enough R-value and plan to replace it. The problem is that now we need to build framing to hold the new insulation.
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Old 06-24-2015, 05:47 PM   #42
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Quote:
What exactly would you like a link to? You said you've seen a few of his videos...
What do you mean? I thought the conversation was about Master's videos you saw on You Tube. If there's a specific video or a procedure you'd like us to comment on..............

What I was trying to say about the air chamber is that although the toilet is the fixture that causes the hammer, the air gap/chamber is installed on the shower/tub/vanity for obvious reasons.

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Old 06-24-2015, 06:41 PM   #43
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Quote:
What do you mean? I thought the conversation was about Master's videos you saw on You Tube. If there's a specific video or a procedure you'd like us to comment on..............
I was simply pointing to the fact that he does not use an air chamber in his plumbing jobs. Here's an examples:

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Old 06-24-2015, 08:07 PM   #44
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Thank you for posting that video---I'll wait for a licenced plumber to comment--but he made a few amature mistakes that I spotted---

That video is not made by a trained pro----and he left one item that will very likely be trouble after the tile is installed.

Let's see what a master has to say---
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:15 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
That old tile job is a mud bed---not well done---but a bed of 'deck mud' none the less--

You said that the budget is thin this week--so you will be doing a 'perfume the pig' job on the floor.

Build up layers of plywood topped with 1/4" cement board--what ever combination matches the height needed---then add your new tub---frame it with 2x4s and Durrock the walls.

Honestly, it will take some more time--but little more money, to demo the old floor --add plywood and backer and retile the entire floor---If you remove the bidet, you will have another patch in the old tile---

We won't be doing the entire floor. This is the area that needs to be raised and then partially retiled. The new 60" tub will be in the far right corner, and there will be a cabinet in the far left corner. The cabinet will be custom made to allow a back support for installing a shower door (since the bathroom is too wide). Having said that, do I need to have the cement board under the area that will not be tiled? Or can I lay the plywood down everywhere, then lay the tub and build cabinet, then cut the cement board to fit the remaining area?

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