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Old 08-06-2015, 09:37 PM   #331
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If you use an " trowel you will raise the tiles no more than ⅛" +-.

You need to do some patching and or self leveling before you set the tiles.

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Old 08-06-2015, 10:54 PM   #332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
You need to do some patching and or self leveling before you set the tiles.

I've never done that before. Can you explain it further?
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Old 08-07-2015, 11:07 AM   #333
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No, not really. What's there to explain? I'm sure you understand the theory, raise the deck mud and make it flat. Read the directions, note your plan of attack, then do it. You may have to do it in several pours cuz it's not a consistent difference in height.

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Old 08-07-2015, 12:04 PM   #334
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Will the self-leveling cement adhere to the deck med even though I didn't finish it properly?
How many bags of the SLC do you think I'll need to raise that floor to where I need it (approx. 8ft x 3ft area)?
When pouring the concrete, how will I know if it's high enough... I don't want to add too little or too much and get the target height wrong, again.
Which product do you recommend?
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Old 08-07-2015, 02:33 PM   #335
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Figure out if SLC is what you wanna use. If the old tile floor is level, I'd say yes.

Block any holes and cracks that'l let the SLC flow to unwanted areas. With level and straight edge determine how much material you will need. A #50 bag will do about 25 sq. ft. @ ".

To mark desired elevation you might want to do this; Set several roofing nails in the deck mud to the level you want and of course all at the same level. Pour SLC to just below that level cuz it'll continue to flow. Be sure to work fast and have enough number of bags on hand with water measured and ready to go.

Normally you have to apply the appropriated sealer to the floor, you may be able to skip this step in your case. Call the manufacturer to be sure or just go ahead and spend the money. If you need a second application, no need to apply more sealer unless you wait more than 24 hours.

You'll need several 5 gal buckets, (4-5) a heavy duty variable speed wired drill with mixing paddle.

Hopefully you'll figure it out.

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Old 08-09-2015, 07:14 PM   #336
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Yes, the old floor seems level. I placed a straight edge on it and all the tiles were touching it.

I'm assuming I won't be able to use a gage rake because my deck med isn't even close to even. Do I simply poor it and let it take care of itself or I need to help it with a trowel or something? Does it need to be finished with a tool or I just let is sit there after it's poured?
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:29 PM   #337
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OK, we'll assume it's level, but what you described tells you the floor is flat which is good.

After the prep I mentioned you'll pour the slc and it will flow to the low spots. Yes, you may need to help it a bit and know if you need to pour more or not. That's one reason I suggested the roofing nails or similar method to guide you. Be sure to have more than enough material on hand and be ready with buckets filled with measure water etc.

Do not over pour, if anything just get it close, then pour another batch after it dries.

Do not try to smooth it out after 10 minutes, maybe less.

Check on the primer requirement as I noted before.

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Old 08-10-2015, 09:41 AM   #338
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Are the roofing nails to be removed before the cement begins to harden or will that be near impossible? I'm just curious to know if they'll leave dimples in the cement.
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Old 08-10-2015, 01:05 PM   #339
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I would think you'd remove them since yours is a small area. It wouldn't hurt to leave them though. You may want to use screws instead. It's just a top-of the-head idea that I thought would be easy for you to do. Get it close, then may have to tweak it a bit.

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Old 08-11-2015, 04:03 PM   #340
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Sorry, I should have been clearer. what I meant is if I leave them in the cement and remove them afterwards, will the dimples comprise the durability of the cement as a substrate? Especially since it's going to be a very thin layer...
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:32 PM   #341
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With a small area like yours you may be able to remove your guides, but you don't have to. After all they'll be flush or below the new surface. I certainly wouldn't want to disturb them after the cement sets.

What is the range of how thick the cement will be?

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Old 08-12-2015, 11:27 AM   #342
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Advice on Bathroom Remodel


It's about 1/8"-1/4" thickness of cement I need to add. I bought one bag (says 50sq. Ft @ 1/8" coverage approx..... I have 22sq. Ft to cover at the range specified so i'll be ok) of SLC today and a paddle bit for my drill. I forgot to get the primer though. How will I even prime the surface? It's all sandy and uneven, looks like a beach or a sand dune.. Impossible to pass a roller on that, especially now with the screws I set over the deck mud, all leveled and ready for the pour. The bag says I need the primer:
Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1439396774.526922.jpg

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Old 08-12-2015, 11:37 AM   #343
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Just spread it around with a paint brush.
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:44 AM   #344
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Just spread it around with a paint brush.

Good idea.

Any tips on making this pour go smoothly? Jaz already mentionned to pour it a bit thicker since it will set a bit while curing. Tbh, the thing I'm most worried about is pouring it after not having acheived the right consistency from mixing. Also, I'm really worried that this SLC will dry way faster than I can work.
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:10 PM   #345
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Mix it exactly the way it tells you on the bag.

You should mix the entire bag, but according to your figures you will not use it all. I'll take your word for it, but from the last pic in #326 I woulda guessed you'd need more than ⅛" - ". The tiles are only gonna account for less than ⅜" of that gap. Hard to tell from here.

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