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Old 08-05-2015, 07:31 AM   #316
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I'm not familiar with that one--but I believe it is a medium bed thinset---

use a 1/2x1/2 trowel---add more to the back of the tiles needing elevation---then press and wiggle until flush with the adjoining tiles---I would consider using leveling clips to help keep the tiles on the same plane---
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:36 AM   #317
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Advice on Bathroom Remodel


The floor tiles don't seem to have any spacing between them; it looks like they were installed with the deck med way back when just completely up against eachother. With that being said, I'll just use a rubber mallot and a level.

Last edited by Solidify; 08-05-2015 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:25 AM   #318
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The medium bed mortar isn't a viable option either: most medium bed mortars have a maximum recommended height of 3/4"... I'm missing an inch and at other places even more.

What a nightmare this job is turning into. Makes me feel like gutting the entire toilet and doing it right.

Last edited by Solidify; 08-05-2015 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:41 AM   #319
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Jaz,

I just found out some information that you may not have been aware of.

Earlier in this thread, you replied the following to a post I had made stating I'd be following this tilesman's waterproofing procedure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
Before you continue too far, I recommend that you read the directions and also watch the Laticrete videos for the product you're gonna use. Laticrete is a good company and a liquid membrane is fine for the walls, I prefer the Kerdi method if doing a full shower. Laticrete also makes a similar system to Kerdi.

When I use a liquid membrane I prefer Laticrete Hydroban over this cheaper cousin. Hydro Barrier is more like Redgard in price.

I know this tile guy means well, but he did several things wrong in his video.

He used Hydro Barrier and the tape to tape the joints of the concrete backer. This is wrong.

He only applied the membrane on parts of the walls and only applied one coat. He accomplished almost nothing.

We don't know what he did behind the concrete backer if anything. Did he install a vapor barrier? I'll bet he did nothing, which tells us if he knew how to do this according to industry norms he could have simply applied two coats of the membrane and he'd have a good surface applied waterproofed wall.

Plus, why the heck does he use a 3" putty knife?

Be careful reading and watching stuff of the internet unless it comes from the manufacturer or it can be verified by going to the manufacturer's website or an association like the TCNA. Tile Council of North America.

Noticed you posted again, we can deal with that later.

Jaz
In order of appearance...

Quote:
He used Hydro Barrier and the tape to tape the joints of the concrete backer. This is wrong.
I recently cited a forum that confirms this can be done:

Quote:
Thinset and mesh tape the panel seams, but be very conscious of knocking the thinset down so that you don't end up with a speed bump at each seam. You want your walls to be flat and in plane.

The thinset will fill the seams.

The mesh will provide a bit of reinforcement.

The RedGard will then cover everything. If you didn't use thinset and mesh tape before using RedGard and you had panel gaps at the cement board seams and corners, then you'd want to use 6" wide fiberglass fabric embedded in the RedGard to bridge joints/gaps.

You'll probably find it easier to detail the corners and seams with thinset and alkali-resistant mesh tape before using RedGard than it is to apply the fabric while using RedGard. By taking care of the seams ahead of time, all you have to do is "RedGard". No 6" fabric will be required with the RedGard.
Source: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...efore-or-after

Albeit more costly, it still seems to be a viable alternative.

------

Next...

Quote:
He only applied the membrane on parts of the walls and only applied one coat. He accomplished almost nothing.
Take a closer look at the tile backer he's using. It's called DensShield®. I invite you to read up on it if you aren't familiar with it.

Quote:
DensShield® Tile Backer is the first backer board with a built-in moisture barrier
Source: http://www.buildgp.com/densshield-tilebacker-board#

Quote:
Unlike cementitious backer boards, DensShield does not require an additional moisture barrier.
Source: http://www.alanhamiltonceramics.com/...DensShield.pdf

That is why he "only applied the membrane on parts of the walls."

---

Quote:
We don't know what he did behind the concrete backer if anything. Did he install a vapor barrier?
The previous answer takes care of this as well. In his previous serie videos, you can see that he simply installed the tile backer right up against the studs, with no vapour barrier between them.

----

Quote:
why the heck does he use a 3" putty knife?
That's the only part I'm uncertain of. My guess is that he didn't use a roller because he wasn't planning to apply the membrane to the enterity of the boards, and the putty knife makes it easier to cover the screw holes and get into those inside corners with the fiberglass tape her was using.

Last edited by Solidify; 08-05-2015 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:51 PM   #320
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This thread has gone off the deep end several times. We've dealt with multiple situations and things kept changing. Add a few failures and threats to give up, and it's gotten a bit confusing. Add your lack of ability to attribute quotes that makes it difficult for some of us to recall what's going on. Remember, you're doing one project, we're answering many, plus some of us are also one other forums.

I'll try to answer, feel free to ask other Q's.

* I'm very familiar with DenShield, you should not apply a liquid membrane over it with the possible exception of the thinseted joints and punctures caused by over driven fasteners. I don't recall what type of board that guy was using and if it was DenShield, it's another reason you should not have referred to it cuz you are not using DenShield. I think you're using Permabase right? How you treat the surface is completely different.

* It's a big waste to use liquid membrane to fill cracks and then use 6" wide mesh tape, esp. over DenShield. 2" tape and thinset is the norm.

* I suggested 3" knife was silly with the 6" tape he was using.

* If I recall, that guy used Denshield on most of the wall, but some was the old drywall. Again, referring to that just makes it confusing since that's not what you're doing.

Have you figured out what went wrong with the areas below the window?

I still can't figure out how the mud came out so low and so unflat.

Jaz
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:35 PM   #321
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Quote:
Add your lack of ability to attribute quotes that makes it difficult for some of us to recall what's going on.
How do you mean this?

Quote:
if it was DenShield, it's another reason you should not have referred to it cuz you are not using DenShield.
Yes, good point, although I was simply pointing out that what you consider as "several things [being done] wrong in his video" were perhaps correct for the circumstances of his remodel (i.e.: because he's using DensShield).

Quote:
I think you're using Permabase right?
Yes, that'c correct.

Quote:
It's a big waste to use liquid membrane to fill cracks and then use 6" wide mesh tape, esp. over DenShield. 2" tape and thinset is the norm.
I don't think that makes it "wrong" though.

Quote:
Have you figured out what went wrong with the areas below the window?
Well, what went wrong was simply that the CBU isn't equidistant from the the window frame around the contour of the window. The top half of the CBU on the exterior wall is sunk lower behind the window's frame and as you follow the CBU down below the window, it becomes more and more pronounced outward until it's over the lip of the window frame. So tiling is near impossible, as far as I'm concerned...

Quote:
I still can't figure out how the mud came out so low and so unflat.
Because I had no idea what I was doing. First time doing deck mud.

What's the easiest way to finish this remodel? Keep in mind I don't want to start anything over again. At this point, I just wanna finish it with as minimal of costs as possible and hopefully down the line I'll redo it completely. It just needs to be made functional at this point.

Put yourself in my shoes, what would you do:
  • window/CBU issue
  • Thinset too pronoucned on the CBU for even tiling (possibly thinner tiles I suggested earlier?)..
  • deck mud issue
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:44 PM   #322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaz
It's a big waste to use liquid membrane to fill cracks and then use 6" wide mesh tape, esp. over DenShield. 2" tape and thinset is the norm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify
I don't think that makes it "wrong" though.
All cbu manufacturers tell you to use the special 2" mesh tape. The liquid membrane along with the 6" tape goes with the liquid membrane manufacturer's methods. There is no need to use this method unless you're waterproofing a shower wall and floor and directions call for it. Your case is simple, unlike the link you provided.

The situation with the window area is something that should have been addressed before, harder to fix now.

As to your 3 issues you'd like to fix, man, it's hard to tell you exactly from here. If the new deck mud was low but consistent, it wouldn't be so difficult. You said it has waves however. I haven't ever painted myself in that corner before. A patching cement or self leveling may be the way to go, but I'd have to be there to evaluate it. That is what YOU have to do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaz
Add your lack of ability to attribute quotes that makes it difficult for some of us to recall what's going on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify
How do you mean this?
What I mean is like what I did above so people know who said what.

To attribute a quote do this;

Highlight what you wanna quote, copy & paste in to your reply.
Highlight the quote, then click the "quote" tab in the dialog header above. It's the one left of the "#". You will see this;

[QUOTE] then the actual quote, followed by [QUOTE]

Now add an "=" after the E in the first Quote and the person you are quoting.

So, if you're quoting me this first part would look like this. [QUOTE=Jaz] then the quote....

Give it a try, it took me a few years on here before I tried and figured it out.

Jaz
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:19 PM   #323
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For the window: harder sure, but how?

For the patching cement or SLC, how can I help you evaluate it? Would photos help? Would you need me to take measurements? If so, of what?

I just wanna finish this once and for all.

And I know how to attribute quotes, look at the big initial blurb I quoted you in. It has your name. The following smaller quotes are just pulled from that big blurb so I didn't cite them just so it went a bit faster to reply.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:41 AM   #324
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Advice on Bathroom Remodel


Edit nvm

Last edited by Solidify; 08-06-2015 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:15 AM   #325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify
For the patching cement or SLC, how can I help you evaluate it? Would photos help? Would you need me to take measurements? If so, of what?
How about you place a long straight edge on the old floor extending it over to the new deck mud to see what needs to be done? A pic from the side will help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify
And I know how to attribute quotes, look at the big initial blurb I quoted you in. It has your name.
No. Your quote does not look like my quote.

Quote:
Add your lack of ability to attribute quotes that makes it difficult for some of us to recall what's going on.

Originally Posted by Jaz
Add your lack of ability to attribute quotes that makes it difficult for some of us to recall what's going on.

Jaz
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Old 08-06-2015, 03:32 PM   #326
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Advice on Bathroom Remodel


I made sure the 2x4 was straight.

Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1438893107.651522.jpg
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Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1438893136.047924.jpg
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Old 08-06-2015, 03:54 PM   #327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify View Post
Now, drop a tile under the 2x4 and see how much space is left and snap a pic.
Doesn't look like there will be a huge gap.
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:06 PM   #328
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I had already put the 2x4 back in the garage. This should do.

Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1438895144.016723.jpg
Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1438895168.011188.jpg

Last edited by Solidify; 08-06-2015 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 08-06-2015, 05:47 PM   #329
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Doesn't look too bad. As mentioned, use a 1/2" notched trowel.
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Old 08-06-2015, 05:59 PM   #330
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So you're saying I'd be OK to just glue the tiles directly to the deck mud with thinset?
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