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Old 08-02-2015, 09:02 AM   #301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Those cup grinders can save the day----I don't use one very often--the dust is ridiculous--but when you do need one--they are great.

Angle grinders are inexpensive----the diamond cup wheel will cost about the same as the grinder.
I missed the cup part.
I never used one of those, let alone seen one. Couldn't he just dig it out with the regular disc?
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:57 AM   #302
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It's very hard to work with a hump over 1/16".

Back buttering is more for good bonds, if you need to flaten, I call it "cream cheesing". You need to be careful and selective otherwise you'll create more humps and voids.

If you have humps that make a tile rock when tested without thinset, remove as Mike suggested.

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Old 08-02-2015, 12:34 PM   #303
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Quote:
If you have humps that make a tile rock when tested without thinset, remove as Mike suggested.
That's me. Damn. I'll see what I can do.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:37 PM   #304
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I missed the cup part.
I never used one of those, let alone seen one. Couldn't he just dig it out with the regular disc?
I'm sure he could---I usually have a grinder set up with 60 grit paper disks--(two,back to back for stiffness)--that is more than enough to knock down thinset---the thinset is soft and easily sanded or ground down---
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:39 PM   #305
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I'm sure he could---I usually have a grinder set up with 60 grit paper disks--(two,back to back for stiffness)--that is more than enough to knock down thinset---the thinset is soft and easily sanded or ground down---
Regular sanding discs, huh? Who woulda thunk?
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:44 PM   #306
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They are designed to fit a grinder----I use them when coping wood---aggressive copes ,like fitting a wood trim against a stone wall---you tube --coping with an angle grinder
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:12 AM   #307
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Rather than give myself a headache, I might just buy tiles for the shower area that are less then half an inch so then I can back-butter them up to the existing tile's level without worrying about them being too pronounced, because that's what happened yesterday when I tried putting back a few on the lower wall:

Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1438693907.265292.jpg
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:16 AM   #308
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I'd like to get started on tiling the remaining floor on top of the deck mud. I was told that I need to add thinset on top of the deck mud first and then once that thinset dries, then I tiled over that.

What else do I need to know? This will be my first time doing this?

How do I make sure the thinset will be straight for laying the floor tiles afterward?
How do I remove the cement from the old salvaged tiles that I will be using?

I don't have a recent photo on hand but this will have to do for now. The deck mud area hasn't changed. That's the area that has to be tiled over.

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Old 08-04-2015, 12:06 PM   #309
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I was told that I need to add thinset on top of the deck mud first and then once that thinset dries, then I tiled over that.
Uh-oh, I must have done something wrong. I just tiled right over the dry pack.
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Old 08-04-2015, 12:16 PM   #310
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No, you did fine. I'm trying to build up the height before tiling thats why. Cuz the deck mud is uneven
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Old 08-04-2015, 03:10 PM   #311
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I did a bit of research and suddenly I'm not too sure if it's such an good idea to fill the low spots on the deck mud with mortar; from what I read mortar isn't a suitable substrate so packing in more than 1/4" isn't a good idea... And I'm sure I have atleast 1/2" (if not more) to raise the mud at some spots to level it with the existing floor tile.

Everything it tellings me to redo this deck mud but it's too late for that now with the tub and boards in place (not to mention I really don't want to have to go through that again -_-)
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Old 08-04-2015, 07:01 PM   #312
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I had the same problem, so I gooped em with thin set and finished the job.
They held up for a year or two fine before my house demo. When I smashed them with a sledge hammer, it took a lot of force to break the bond.
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Old 08-05-2015, 12:02 AM   #313
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Are you implying that I should go with the thinset filler to raise the tiles? It's a rather expensive filler compared to deck mud (at approx. 25$/bag), which is the only drawback.

This explains why you shouldn't have done what you did and why I most likely won't follow in your footsteps:

Quote:
The object of that final mud bed, aside from providing a flat surface for your tile, is to allow water to penetrate freely to the sloped pan liner and to the drain. It also allows moisture vapor to pass freely up through the tile installation to help it dry out between uses.

While your added thinset mortar might actually prevent as much moisture from penetrating the mud bed, it will also serve to inhibit the desired evaporation.

As for an actual tile failure? Thinset mortar is not designed for use in building up the substrate and is prone to shrinkage and cracking problems when used in thicknesses beyond that recommended by the manufacturer, which is usually a maximum of 1/4-inch. Total.

Yes, people have been using thinset mortar for such build-up for years and swear by the process. Manufacturer says it ain't a good eye-dee.

The medium-bed mortars allow for much greater build-up, but it'll still not be easy to make that floor as flat as you want it while keeping the appropriate slope. That's why we use deck mud.
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...p/t-96240.html

Everything goes here, minus the slope since I'm dealing with a floor here and not a shower pan liner.
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:05 AM   #314
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Get a medium bed mortar and you should be fine---the package will say it is for large tiles----
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:56 AM   #315
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Will this do?

Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1438775735.835161.jpg

Do I mix it just like the thinset? Do I just add a bunch to the deck mud then lay the tile down and press down until it oozes out until my desired height?
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