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Old 07-30-2015, 04:44 PM   #286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify View Post
Over the tile eh? Can you show me how that would look with a reference photo?
Sorry, no pics.
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:56 PM   #287
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Pugsy, someone told me that window-in-the-washroom deal was to circumvent having to install an exhaust fan. Also, likd I mentionned, this was originally a deck mount tub, and the showerhead was a mere 3 feet off the ground. It was intended to be used solely as a tub, imo.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:08 PM   #288
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Old fashioned intentions were fine at the time.

When I came home and found my window In the bathtub, I filled the hole, sided the outside of the house and added a ceiling fan. No question of what to do, for me, that is.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:10 PM   #289
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Advice on Bathroom Remodel


The issue here isn't having the window there, it's finding a way to waterproof it.

Many wahsrooms have windows in their tubs.
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Old 07-31-2015, 04:06 AM   #290
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Quote:
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The issue here isn't having the window there, it's finding a way to waterproof it.
Yes, I agree, waterproofing is the key.
I've told you what I would do to achieve this. Of course it's easy for me to say because I just need to go to work and while I'm there, I could just bend up the required pieces.
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Old 07-31-2015, 04:07 AM   #291
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Quote:
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Many washrooms have windows in their tubs.
I also agree with this. But, I will tell you that I've made dozens of home improvement decisions and have kicked myself in the butt for them later.
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Old 08-01-2015, 05:24 PM   #292
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Let's put that window on hold while I ask something:

I've been looking at plenty of remodeling videos online as well as home improvement forums. I was looking to find out whether the thinset is absolutely necessary for the seams and joints of the CBU, before the Redgard, and here is what I found, which is somewhat different than what I've come to learn from this thread:

Quote:
Thinset and mesh tape the panel seams, but be very conscious of knocking the thinset down so that you don't end up with a speed bump at each seam. You want your walls to be flat and in plane.

The thinset will fill the seams.

The mesh will provide a bit of reinforcement.

The RedGard will then cover everything. If you didn't use thinset and mesh tape before using RedGard and you had panel gaps at the cement board seams and corners, then you'd want to use 6" wide fiberglass fabric embedded in the RedGard to bridge joints/gaps.

You'll probably find it easier to detail the corners and seams with thinset and alkali-resistant mesh tape before using RedGard than it is to apply the fabric while using RedGard. By taking care of the seams ahead of time, all you have to do is "RedGard". No 6" fabric will be required with the RedGard.
Source: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions...efore-or-after

Can someone confirm/clear this up? Because I looked at my boards and I have what I believe to be those "bumps":

Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1438467823.162330.jpg
Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1438467841.372387.jpg

I had a REAL difficult time troweling the inside corners after applying the thinset, so there are plenty of ridges.

Last edited by Solidify; 08-01-2015 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:01 PM   #293
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You may need to do some major buttering of the tiles to get them all level.

Unless one of the pros has a better idea.
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Old 08-01-2015, 08:13 PM   #294
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Speed bumps are caused by improper technique. Thin set too thick and using too small and too stiff broad knife adds to the cause. You have to use min. 6" wide flex knife.

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Old 08-02-2015, 12:10 AM   #295
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Jaz, is pugsy's major buttering the only way to save this tile job or do you have a better solution since it's your trade, if I'm not mistaken.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:35 AM   #296
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And btw, neither of you answered my first question regarding the quoted material.
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:57 AM   #297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify View Post
And btw, neither of you answered my first question regarding the quoted material.
Sorry, I didn't see two questions.
Are you asking about the thin set in the joints?
It's required or else you need to use something else in the joints as mentioned in the blurb you quoted.
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Old 08-02-2015, 06:41 AM   #298
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Those humps are to much---thin is what you want---just enough to cover the gap--

I would use an angle grinder with a diamond cup wheel and grind those down.

Redguard with mesh can be used to fill gaps---rather expensive filler--but it will work.
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Old 08-02-2015, 07:11 AM   #299
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Those humps are to much---thin is what you want---just enough to cover the gap--

I would use an angle grinder with a diamond cup wheel and grind those down.

Redguard with mesh can be used to fill gaps---rather expensive filler--but it will work.
DOH!....of course, the diamond wheel and grind down the humps.
I'm so used to only cutting with these wheels that I didn't think about using it to grind the thin set down.
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Old 08-02-2015, 07:42 AM   #300
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Those cup grinders can save the day----I don't use one very often--the dust is ridiculous--but when you do need one--they are great.

Angle grinders are inexpensive----the diamond cup wheel will cost about the same as the grinder.
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