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Old 06-22-2015, 06:15 AM   #16
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That looks like cast onyx----it will break into managable peices by smacking it with a hammer.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:44 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben's plumbing View Post
make sure you look at repairing that joist that is cut in half...

Good call. Thanks.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
That looks like cast onyx----it will break into managable peices by smacking it with a hammer.

I don't know, i'd thought about it but it seems like it's way too thick for that.
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:28 AM   #19
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New tenant's moving in today, gonna try to slip the movers a little something to take that tub out to the curb. Took out the bidet today. Tried unsoldering the adapter but it wasn't working so I got 2 x shakbite ball valves to minimize downtime and I'll just return them when the job is done hehe

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Old 06-22-2015, 12:23 PM   #20
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Scratch that:

Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1434993745.950520.jpg
Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1434993763.410039.jpg
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Old 06-22-2015, 02:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben's plumbing View Post
make sure you look at repairing that joist that is cut in half...

How does one repair this?:

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Old 06-22-2015, 06:47 PM   #22
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That will not be fun----you will need to sister a new 2x ? along side the butchered joist.

Ideaal is the full length to the support points---I doubt if ideal will be practicle--so add the longest length you can---glue and nail---

Offset drains are available for tubs--also known as 'solven weld ' tub drains--

They use common 1 1/2" PVC and any combination of 45s and such needed to move the piping and over flow to the side.--a shallow notch may be needed in the joist if the drain lands right on top of it.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:55 PM   #23
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Damn ok thanks
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:20 PM   #24
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Advice on Bathroom Remodel


Another question.

Advice on Bathroom Remodel-imageuploadedbydiy-chat1435018814.182283.jpg

That looks like regular 'ol drywall under those tiles. We've never used this shower because the showerhead was always way too low. If we're planning to raise the showerhead and begin using the shower (i.e.: have water running off that tiled wall), is it imperative that the tile be redone on some type of backerboard that can be waterproofed with a membrane? Does it depend on the state of the grout job on the existing tiles?
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:33 PM   #25
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That bath tub was a 'deck mount' and was not usable as a shower---so the walls,at that time, were not in a 'wet area'---drywall and mastic was fine--

However, If you start using that wall as a shower--it will fail in a few years.

Tile/grout are not waterproof--some moisture will get behind it---soon enough the paper will start to fail--mold---then the gypsum will go.--Sorry--
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:21 PM   #26
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Ok so i plan to remove the tile and drywall from those taped lines all the way back (so all 3 walls) then put backerboard and retile with different style tile exclusive to tub area:

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Old 06-22-2015, 08:35 PM   #27
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I'm just undecided how high i'll remove the tile in the tub area. I know that the backerboard doesnt necessarily have to go to the ceiling but then again, i'm planning to change the tile in that area until the ceiling so i might as well right?
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:58 PM   #28
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Progress:

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Old 06-23-2015, 01:32 PM   #29
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I hear a lot of people using the following terms interchangeably:
  • masonry board
  • cement board
  • tile backer board
Are they basically the same? They all seem to be what tile gets glued to but I don't understand what their differences are, when to use one over the other (e.g.: for tiling floor vs tiling shower) and what thicknesses are needed.
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:25 PM   #30
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Its official name is CBU, which stands for Concrete Backer Unit. But it's known by many names including the ones you mentioned. It came to the tile market in the early '70's in the name of Wonderboard. There's many brands today and it's made in several thicknesses and sizes. For residential uses you want " on walls, counter or floors or " for floors and counters. There is no benefit in using " for floors unless you need the extra height.

When used on floors and counters you must spread fresh thinset mortar under the panels, then fasten per directions. All seams get taped with fiberglass mesh and a coat of thinset.

Got specific questions?

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