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Old 07-27-2015, 06:17 PM   #271
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Referring to where to apply a membrane to make the area waterproof:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify
What areas would qualify as vulnerable and how would I waterproof them?
As mentioned, the window for sure, but not just a membrane. I can't see the detail of how the side and bottom of the window interface with the wall. I'd like you to use a fabric membrane, but Redgard or a similar product will work too if done right. And as Mike said the areas below the window and I'l add the wet wall too. For the window, the first line of defense and the only thing you'l see, will be a good bead of chalk. Of course any wide crack will need to be chalked in addition to the Redgard.

Just remember; to make it waterproof before any tiles are installed.

I recommend you buy just one gallon and after filling all the cracks, go ahead and apply min. 2 coats around the window areas and then do what you can. Don't even bother with the end wall apposite the wet wall.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
I was surprised at what you must pay for the Red Guard---
When it's adjusted for the currency value, CA $ vs. US $, it's like paying $65 in the USA. Hydroban is more than that, if I recall.

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Old 07-27-2015, 06:25 PM   #272
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Jaz, there are a lot of new products on the market--I have a bad habit of sticking with what I know---Hydroban is what I use most often--and Dang, it has gotten expensive--

I just don't know the new ones like, Aqua Defense--
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Old 07-27-2015, 06:45 PM   #273
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Had some fun just now. I didn't see any water damage anywhere.

Tiles on cement board. I found a nice bead of silicone between the cement board and tub rim. I did seal the grout when I finished the tile install.

First pics are from the bedroom behind the shower. The plywood sheet is my "furring strips". Easy way to do it.

The black circle seen is not mold or anything, just the middle of the flashlight beam.

I had never heard of Redguard until reading the forums. My job seems fine nine years later.

The choice is yours on how to proceed.
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:44 PM   #274
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Quote:
There are a number of good paint on waterproofing membranes--have you called around to see if your local stores offer something at a more reasonable price?
HD Canada only has one alternative for a waterproofing and crack prevention membrane but the rep said it requires three coats, and it's not much cheaper anyways.

Another Quebec-based home improvement store has these options:

http://www.renodepot.com/en/membrane...mbrane-2108184

http://www.renodepot.com/en/379-l-li...brane-21085470

I'm not sure if they're any good, but they're all around the same price either way.

Quote:
I can't see the detail of how the side and bottom of the window interface with the wall.
I can take more pictures if you need:






I just realized the CBU is raised out past the window jamb on the bottom of the window and as it goes higher up the window it falls behind the jamb. This is what I meant by a make-shift job. I stink.

Thanks for the pics pugsy. I'll give it some thought.
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Old 07-27-2015, 08:51 PM   #275
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The window area is the weak link if that shower---and needs to be waterproofed--

I can't tell from the pictures,but the wood jambs could cause you trouble in the future--can they be removed and replaced with backer board?

A tile guy I have respect for uses Aqua Defense---so it must be good--Mapei makes some good stuff---but that is also expensive----it is your insurance--so ???
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Old 07-27-2015, 09:07 PM   #276
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"I can't tell from the pictures,but the wood jambs could cause you trouble in the future--can they be removed and replaced with backer board?"

I wouldnt even wanna attempt to do that myself. I think I'm out of my element again. Another roadblock.
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Old 07-27-2015, 09:25 PM   #277
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I don't know why that window is so low, sitting right on the framing, looks like. You need to install concrete backer on the sill and jamb. Can't tile right on lumber. Make sure you put a slight slope on the sill.

The plane of the wall under the window looked odd in an earlier pic. I made a comment about making things flush. Look at 4th pic in post #240, then my comment in #252.

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Old 07-28-2015, 07:34 AM   #278
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Yea I might just have someone finish it for real this time.

In the meantime, how do I make that open bag of thinset stay good for another while?

Last edited by Solidify; 07-28-2015 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 07-28-2015, 08:52 AM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidify
In the meantime, how do I make that open bag of thinset stay good for another while?
Wrap the opening closed and tape it. Store it in conditioned space off the floor (if it's a slab).

I would say it's too late for the window. The backer is simple, not sure what's up with the area under the sill. More pics?

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Old 07-28-2015, 09:41 AM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
I would say it's too late for the window. The backer is simple, not sure what's up with the area under the sill. More pics?

Jaz

What do you mean when you say it's too late for the window?

What would you like me to take a photo of, because I'm uncertain at this point?

Last edited by Solidify; 07-28-2015 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 07-28-2015, 03:06 PM   #281
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Normally the window would be spaced up off the 2x4 to allow for insulation and to gain enough height for " board plus tiles. As it is now looks like by the time you add the backer and tiles it's gonna be kinda high relative to the window. Maybe not though since I have nothing to relate to.

Always good to add more pics, some closeups and some from a little further back to reference. The sill and jambs areas, the ones we're discussing now will do.

Have you placed a straight edge on the wall esp. in those areas lately?

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Old 07-30-2015, 03:42 PM   #282
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Old 07-30-2015, 03:50 PM   #283
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The CBU is relatively straight, it's just that where it meets the bottom of the window, its much further out than on top of the window (which is lower than the wood). And the right side if the window (vertically speaking) isn't plum:

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Old 07-30-2015, 04:15 PM   #284
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It's not too late to lose that window. I just for the life of me cannot get my head around the window in a shower.

The bottom sill where it meets the glass cannot have any thickness added to the height of it or you will have no where to run a bead of silicone. That's why I mentioned a stainless steel skin/flashing from where it would touch the window at the bottom, come out and then bend a small rim down overlapping the new tiles. This could be done all the way around.

Otherwise, it looks as though some wood needs to come out to get cement board and tiles in there without it being too high and leaving a real slime collecting zone which would inevitably leak.
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Old 07-30-2015, 04:18 PM   #285
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Quote:
stainless steel skin/flashing from where it would touch the window at the bottom, come out and then bend a small rim down overlapping the new tiles
Over the tile eh? Can you show me how that would look with a reference photo?

Removing the window is not an option, btw.
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