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Old 12-30-2015, 07:22 PM   #1
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What is "subflush" (regarding Delta R10000 shower valve)?


I have cinderblock walls covered with browncoat and plaster. The plumber installed this Delta R10000 shower valve:

http://i.imgur.com/HJFVicg.jpg

However I am now concerned because the wall needs to be patched with concrete to make it plum which is going to reach at least the edge of the plasterguard. The board in the above picture shows where the concrete should come out to. But with thinset and tile the finished wall is going to well exceed the plaster guard. Does anyone see this as a problem?

The instructions actually say:

"Consider the type and thickness of
your finished wall before placing your
stringer back plate. Install the body (1)
so the surface of the finished wall is
flush with the front of the plasterguard
(2) 1/4". Note: For with stops
models, plasterguard must be flush
or subflush 1/4" to finished wall."

My particular valve has "stops".

So what does "subflush" mean in this case? Does this mean that the edge of the plasterguard should be recessed 1/4" from the surface of the tile? I hope so!
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Old 12-30-2015, 09:05 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squarewav View Post
I have cinderblock walls covered with browncoat and plaster. The plumber installed this Delta R10000 shower valve:

http://i.imgur.com/HJFVicg.jpg

However I am now concerned because the wall needs to be patched with concrete to make it plum which is going to reach at least the edge of the plasterguard. The board in the above picture shows where the concrete should come out to. But with thinset and tile the finished wall is going to well exceed the plaster guard. Does anyone see this as a problem?

The instructions actually say:

"Consider the type and thickness of
your finished wall before placing your
stringer back plate. Install the body (1)
so the surface of the finished wall is
flush with the front of the plasterguard
(2) 1/4". Note: For with stops
models, plasterguard must be flush
or subflush 1/4" to finished wall."

My particular valve has "stops".

So what does "subflush" mean in this case? Does this mean that the edge of the plasterguard should be recessed 1/4" from the surface of the tile? I hope so!
The finish surface needs to be flush with the front surface of the black plastic plaster guard. So you need to hold the valve out flush with the tile. Key word finish surface. Any way you should post this in the plumbing section. maybe a mod can move it.
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Old 12-30-2015, 09:20 PM   #3
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By sub flush they mean slightly below the surface, you are correct in that assumption. However you also can note that they've only 1/4" below the surface so that's not much. Any more than that and you will run into problems.
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Old 12-30-2015, 09:34 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Msradell View Post
By sub flush they mean slightly below the surface, you are correct in that assumption. However you also can note that they've only 1/4" below the surface so that's not much. Any more than that and you will run into problems.
Hi Msradell I think he is saying the board is to where his wall will be before he tiles it. so it could be 3/4 in. or more inset. I have not done plumbing for a while but i do know some brands make extensions.
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Old 12-30-2015, 10:25 PM   #5
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Extensions are available for that Delta valve so you should be okay. But purchase it now to be sure that you have no surprises down the road.
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:21 PM   #6
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Wow. That's too bad.

My best estimate at this point is that the plasterguard will be flush with the rough masonry wall. That means I still need room for thinset and tile on top of that.

What is the thickness of thinset + tile usually? More than 1/4"? I have not purchased tile so maybe if I use subway tile that will minimize this thickness?

In practice what actually happens if the diverter is too deep? I have a standard Series 17 trim kit. Would it not function correctly or would it just be a matter of not being able to get your knuckles around the handle? This thing just turns right? Or does it move in and out? If it just turns, then in practice I would think people probably grab the handle with their thumb and the side of their index finger in which case maybe it's something I can live with (this is my place).

Otherwise, it's basically a disaster to redo the diverter. The last contractor put cement right over the foam insulated pipes so I can't just pull it out a little. It's cemented in.

The extension kit (RP75136) adds a whopping 1-3/4". I suppose it could double as a towel bar.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:03 PM   #7
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I moved your thread to plumbing- perhaps some of the experts here can give you more info on the extension kit or how deep the valve can actually be set in relation to the mud guard. I do know there is some fudge factor...
Perhaps you should email Delta and see if they could help.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:10 PM   #8
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if the diverter has built in stops yes you keep it 1/4 or 3/8 back from finish wall ..or the trim cover my hit the stems of the stops... if it does not..its ok as well..you have what we call travel on the diverter for movement set back...

Last edited by ben's plumbing; 12-31-2015 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 01-01-2016, 12:14 PM   #9
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How does he have it secured in the wall? Is there any way to loosen it and shim it out?
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Old 01-01-2016, 04:56 PM   #10
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You usually have a bit of slop either way up to 1/2 " max.
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