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Old 06-02-2017, 11:32 AM   #1
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Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement




I need to change the Temperature/Pressure Relief Valve, it keeps making a hissing sound and water is constantly flowing through the dowward PVC pipe that is located to the right of the water heater, this PVC pipe needs outside). Problem is I need to remove the copper connector and the PVC pipe that is connected to the valve.

It looks like I just have to saw the PVC pipe at some point and then just reconnect it correct? If so, simple enough, get some small saw and carefully hack away. Then how do I reattach?
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:45 AM   #2
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


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It looks like I just have to saw the PVC pipe at some point and then just reconnect it correct? If so, simple enough, get some small saw and carefully hack away. Then how do I reattach?
Ayuh,.... Exactly,.... Ya glue it back together with a Coupler, Coupling fittin',...
Or a union if ya think ya might ever want to take it apart again,....

You'll also wanta dope up the threads before ya screw in the new valve,...
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:47 AM   #3
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


Consider the possibility that the valve is working correctly, and your pressure is too high. Pressure can be too high if the pressure relief tank is either missing or the bladder is ruptured. Best to verify pressure in the system somewhere else before you assume that the valve is defective.
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:50 AM   #4
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


FYI- That is CPVC pipe. It is rated for this application- PVC is not.
Cut it a couple inches below the adapter. Unscrew the adapter from the valve and save.
When reassembling, use a couple wraps of teflon tape on the adapter. Purchase a 3/4" CPVC coupling and a small can of Flow Guard glue (made for CPVC) Following the instructions on the glue can, glue on the coupling at your original cut point and you're done.

Have you verified that the valve has simply failed? Or could the leak simply be a sign of high pressure or temperature within the tank?
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:52 AM   #5
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


Wow- we're all over this one
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Old 06-02-2017, 02:19 PM   #6
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


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Have you verified that the valve has simply failed? Or could the leak simply be a sign of high pressure or temperature within the tank?
How do you tell the difference?
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:11 PM   #7
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


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How do you tell the difference?
Connect a pressure gauge to a silcock or the WH drain valve.
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:43 PM   #8
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


Does your hot water tank have a pressure expansion tank on the cold water to the tank?

Is your hot water temperature High?
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:00 PM   #9
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


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Does your hot water tank have a pressure expansion tank on the cold water to the tank?

Is your hot water temperature High?
Yes, a small expansion tank above the water heater itself. Connected to the cold water line.

Water temperate seems normal.

I had the gas and water to the water heater off for an hour and the hissing stopped. About to replace the valve, soon we shall see if I was right or wrong on my guess. Either way, the valve is over 5 years old, probably a good thing to replace anyways.
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:07 PM   #10
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


Before you do all that on that expansion tank you will find a cap and under it a snifter valve. Hit the snifter to see if you get water out. If you do replace the expansion tank and the relief valve.
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:09 PM   #11
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


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Before you do all that on that expansion tank you will find a cap and under it a snifter valve. Hit the snifter to see if you get water out. If you do replace the expansion tank and the relief valve.
+1. IMO, the exp tank will fail before the T&P will
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:46 PM   #12
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


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Before you do all that on that expansion tank you will find a cap and under it a snifter valve. Hit the snifter to see if you get water out. If you do replace the expansion tank and the relief valve.
Only air comes out when I push on the tiny knob on the expansion tank. So at least no water, but I will eventually get a gauge on it anyways.
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:48 PM   #13
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


Took out the old valve, the probe that goes into the tank, that I guess takes the pressure and temperature of the tank, was rusty and the coating on it almost gone. The new valve, exact same valve make and model, has a nice white coating. So I think it might be the issue.

Need to wait a few hours to let the CPVC cement dry up to test.
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Old 06-03-2017, 03:37 PM   #14
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


On the relief piping your good to go it's none pressure.
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:37 PM   #15
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Re: Water Heater Pressure Relief Pipe Replacement


In case anyone finds this thread in the future, I am surprised you cannot edit posts in this forum.

It was the temperature/pressure valve, it failed and just stayed open, I am guessing that was costing me lots of money in water and natural gas. But as some people mentioned, I probably should have check the expansion tank also, but the valve is a quick and easy enough task that should be done anyways.

Turn off water to the tank, mine was controlled from a pipe coming in from the top, connecting to the expansion tank as well.

Turn off gas, I suppose if you have an electric heater you turn that off and go to the breaker as well.

Drain the water from the faucet at the bottom of the tank. It is hard to really measure how much comes out, I ran it for about 10 minutes thinking it was enough, but then I ended up getting water on the floor when I removed the valve. So just let it drain for a really long time. I think some people even drain it all out once in awhile.

Cut the CPVC pipe that the valve is connected to. No special tool for me, too hard to get it working at that angle and close to the heater, I hand sawed it. Try to make a relatively straight and clean cut because you will still use those ends.

Remove valve with pipe wrench.

Put new valve on with plumbers tape.

Use a coupling to connected the cut CPVC pipe. Then something related for CPVC to hold it, I used something called CPVC cement, rated for high pressure and high temperature. Let it set for awhile.

Connected CPVC to the new valve.

Turn on water.

Turn on gas, this seems to vary by water heater model so search for this information BEFORE. My instructions were right on the heater.

Mine took about 1 hour to get hot.
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