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Old 02-11-2015, 08:07 PM   #1
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Water heater corrosion


3 year old State gas heater shows extensive corrosion on output side only.
House uses copper only. Anyone ever seen this?
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:52 PM   #2
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I had that happen when my anode rod was gone. Looking at the green stains, there might be a slow leak or condensation is forming on the hot pipe.
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:14 PM   #3
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I've seen it, usually on older hwh's though. Recommend replacing the nipple/union on the corrosive side in the near future. Hot side looks good. Just a suggestion.

I believe it's the cold water inlet which contains the dip tube as well. As mentioned, the anode rod could be bad. Good time to replace all three and be done with it. About 40-50 dollars in parts.

Just curious, are you on well or city? Hard water, water softener?

Others will be along with more suggestions.

Last edited by jmon; 02-11-2015 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 02-12-2015, 05:35 AM   #4
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That green staining is the flux left behind after the joint was soldered. Clearly the joints were not properly wiped after they were done. The hot water side required more flux because of the T just above the union. I would hazard to guess excess flux dribbled down onto the (dielectric) union effectively shorting it, which is why you're seeing excess corrosion.

Replace it and wipe the pipe down.
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Old 02-12-2015, 05:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmon View Post
I've seen it, usually on older hwh's though. Recommend replacing the nipple/union on the corrosive side in the near future. Hot side looks good. Just a suggestion.

I believe it's the cold water inlet which contains the dip tube as well. As mentioned, the anode rod could be bad. Good time to replace all three and be done with it. About 40-50 dollars in parts.

Just curious, are you on well or city? Hard water, water softener?

Others will be along with more suggestions.
City water, little calcium buildup on fixtures suggest not hard water, no softner. Corrosion is on hot side.
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Old 02-12-2015, 05:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
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That green staining is the flux left behind after the joint was soldered. Clearly the joints were not properly wiped after they were done. The hot water side required more flux because of the T just above the union. I would hazard to guess excess flux dribbled down onto the (dielectric) union effectively shorting it, which is why you're seeing excess corrosion.

Replace it and wipe the pipe down.
Will replace union and clean pipes. Thanks.
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Old 02-12-2015, 05:35 PM   #7
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Perhaps try a dielectric nipple they seem to last longer.
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Old 02-12-2015, 06:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Perhaps try a dielectric nipple they seem to last longer.
Need a dielectric union also.
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Old 02-12-2015, 06:59 PM   #9
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Need a dielectric union also.
No you don't

He only needs a dielectric nipple and a copper fip adaptor.

The electrolysis is caused by the water the nipple is lined and stainless steel. That type of steel does not have a problem with copper.
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Old 02-12-2015, 07:12 PM   #10
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Will replace union and clean pipes. Thanks.
Dielectric unions are garbage and only work 50% of the time (as clearly noted in your pic). I prefer using flex lines. There is a larger gap between the unlike metal surfaces and "shoring" is less likely to occur. Of course that would mean some pipe work adjustment to get flex lines in, in your case so it's probably not feasible. But next time you change the tank.....
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