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Old 04-27-2015, 08:58 PM   #1
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toilet install


how should I proceed to install a "rear discharge" toilet on this "waste stack" doing the least amount of demo possible?

tnx,
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Old 04-27-2015, 10:29 PM   #2
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Without a vent you don't.
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:30 AM   #3
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How high off of the floor is the bell(hub) on that iron drain?--You may need to open the floor to get the proper elevarion.

Also---what is above?
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:30 PM   #4
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Without a vent you don't

I haven't even mentioned venting yet. yes,I'm quite aware that a vent is needed.

anyway,that pipe going into the floor is 5 1/2nches off the floor. since I'd rather not break any concrete,I was thinking of maybe elevating the toilet with some sort of pedestal (maybe concrete?) of possibly 3 in. does that sound ok?

tnx,
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Old 04-29-2015, 05:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by analogmusicman View Post
anyway,that pipe going into the floor is 5 1/2nches off the floor. since I'd rather not break any concrete,I was thinking of maybe elevating the toilet with some sort of pedestal (maybe concrete?) of possibly 3 in. does that sound ok?
No way. That positively screams "amateur DIY hack job." If you're going to do it, then do it right. Busting concrete is actually kinda therapeutic.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:50 AM   #6
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Look into a carrier mount toilet. Looks like abs into the cast iron so relatively easy. Problem is the cost of those toilets.

http://www.geberitnorthamerica.com/e..._335_00_5.html

You will also need

vertical discharge elbow 3" DWV standard - Horizontal left: 366.914.16.1
- Horizontal right: 366.913.16.

Last edited by Ghostmaker; 04-29-2015 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 04-29-2015, 11:32 AM   #7
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yeah,the wall-hung unit looks good but it IS a bit more than I wanted to spend. I'll have to keep it in mind though...

tnx,
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Old 04-30-2015, 09:53 PM   #8
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I've gotten some pretty good advice from a pro plumber. the "bell" (hub) on that cast pipe going into the floor can be cut off (using my "handy-dandy" recip. saw) and a tee attached to the pipe. this may necessitate chipping some concrete around the pipe but a "hammer drill" should take care of that. I WAS considering a wall mount toilet but now I'm leaning back to a regular "rear discharge" unit.
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:08 PM   #9
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Analog..... Sure would like to see how that T is going to work....

TIA
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by analogmusicman View Post
I've gotten some pretty good advice from a pro plumber. the "bell" (hub) on that cast pipe going into the floor can be cut off (using my "handy-dandy" recip. saw) and a tee attached to the pipe. this may necessitate chipping some concrete around the pipe but a "hammer drill" should take care of that. I WAS considering a wall mount toilet but now I'm leaning back to a regular "rear discharge" unit.
But you'll still need a vent
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Old 05-01-2015, 04:37 PM   #11
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You'll need a 3 3/4 in center off the floor to mount a floor mount rear flush toilet. I would suggest getting the abs tee to see if it is a possibility. Remember you need at least 1.5 inch piece of pipe off the bottom of the tee for the adapter coupling connection.

You also need to maintain the clean out. Use a pro flex band coupling cast to plastic band.

You will also need a vent on the line .

Make sure when you frame you follow manufacture instructions .

Last edited by Ghostmaker; 05-01-2015 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 05-01-2015, 04:46 PM   #12
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Without a vent you don't.
Ghost..... I'm just real weak on plumbing and learning.... could you remind me why the waste stack does not function as a vent???? (assuming it is not wet/drainage above).

Thanks in Advance

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Old 05-01-2015, 06:00 PM   #13
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For the simple reason that water from above is draining down the outside of the pipe and that causes pressure fluctuations of air. If those are not dealt with your new toilet may have the trap seal rocked out and allow sewer smell into the house. Depending on your local code you may be able to just use an air admittance valve on the line to your new toilet. But it will need to remain accessible. Your under UPC I'm not sure they allow the mechanical vents.
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Old 05-01-2015, 06:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC View Post
Ghost..... I'm just real weak on plumbing and learning.... could you remind me why the waste stack does not function as a vent???? (assuming it is not wet/drainage above).

Thanks in Advance

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostmaker View Post
For the simple reason that water from above is draining down the outside of the pipe and that causes pressure fluctuations of air. If those are not dealt with your new toilet may have the trap seal rocked out and allow sewer smell into the house. Depending on your local code you may be able to just use an air admittance valve on the line to your new toilet. But it will need to remain accessible. Your under UPC I'm not sure they allow the mechanical vents.
Ghost.... I got a little confused here....assuming there is no wet/drainage above the toilet install.... can not the main stack function as the vent...????

TIA

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Old 05-01-2015, 08:49 PM   #15
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there IS a vent that goes out the roof which handles the plumbing above my anticipated toilet but that is not sufficient for the plumbing in the new half bath,this will be handled by an "air admittance valve" under the sink. (aav meets code around here)

tnx,
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