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Old 05-20-2015, 08:37 PM   #1
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Toilet Flange Replacement


Evening all,
I have a toilet flange in a bathroom I am remodeling that needs to go (it's bent and corroded). I have access from within the basement and can see all the piping (mostly cast iron). The flange looks to be attached to a black pipe with some type of resin based wrapping on it and I have never seen this before.

Can anyone help me understand what I am looking at (the piece that connects to the cast iron elbow) and how you would go about removing/replacing such an animal to se the new flange and adapt to the cast iron? Thanks I. Advance for any help or insight you may provide!

Dave



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Old 05-20-2015, 09:44 PM   #2
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Is the pipe from the cast to the flange lead?
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:03 AM   #3
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I'm not sure what type of pipe this is. I was hoping someone could help me to identify it.
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:30 AM   #4
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I would remove the pipe down to the cast iron hub. Replace with PVC connected with a rubber donut.
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:31 AM   #5
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Scratch it with a screw driver if it is lead it will be shiny.
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Old 05-21-2015, 04:50 PM   #6
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So I scratched it with a screwdriver and it's definitely shiny. It feels soft though, not like metal. Is this a lead pipe? What's the best way to approach this problem? I'll add an additional pic that shows where the bend in the cast iron leads to.

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Old 05-21-2015, 06:03 PM   #7
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Best way since you have room- snap the 4" horizontal line between the tee and 90.
Use a cast iron x plastic Proflex coupling to transition to 4" plastic pipe. Finish with a new 90 and toilet flange.
Also, support the new pipe with some plumbers perforated strapping.
The tool to cut the cast iron(ratchet soil pipe cutter) is available at good rental yards
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:41 PM   #8
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they also make these fittings that fit into the hub of castiron and back to plastic.. with this you don't need to cut the cast ...just get the old lead fitting out then install this and new flange ...done deal..
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
Best way since you have room- snap the 4" horizontal line between the tee and 90.
Use a cast iron x plastic Proflex coupling to transition to 4" plastic pipe. Finish with a new 90 and toilet flange.
Also, support the new pipe with some plumbers perforated strapping.
The tool to cut the cast iron(ratchet soil pipe cutter) is available at good rental yards

only thing I would do differently is to use my sawzall and a carbide or diamond grit blade to cut the cast iron. I am always afraid the soil cutter will break the fitting.
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:05 PM   #10
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How good are you with tools? You have a brass Ferrel under that lead hump. I have saw sawed above the brass to remove the extra lead above. Then using a map gas torch burned it off the Ferrel. Once it cools use a proflex 4 inch band coupling to convert to plastic then run it to your new plastic flange.

It almost looks like you may be able to cut the brass below that lead hump if you have 1.5 " below it for a 4 inch proflex coupling.
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben's plumbing View Post
they also make these fittings that fit into the hub of castiron and back to plastic.. with this you don't need to cut the cast ...just get the old lead fitting out then install this and new flange ...done deal..


what holds the rubber into the hub? Other end fits over 4" male PVC then clamped?
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
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what holds the rubber into the hub? Other end fits over 4" male PVC then clamped?
that is not rubber ..its abs plastic its called a caulk ferrell..after removing old lead you insert fitting into hub and use soil cement or hydraulic cement to secure into hub... remember the old oakium and lead joints..its the same principle..
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:11 PM   #13
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Thanks all. I think I'm going to go the route of a clean cut with a sawzall and adapt to plastic. I'll update the thread on Saturday when I get to work on it.
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Old 05-23-2015, 09:40 AM   #14
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The lead may be just bent and shaped around/over the flange. You could straighten out the lead, install new cast iron flange and bend the lead around it. Just beat the lead gently to shape. I'm not sure if lead has to be removed per code, or if this type of repair is ad hoc and it is obviously not water tight.
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Old 05-23-2015, 12:01 PM   #15
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Cut it after the hub with my Sawzall (sliced right through in about 3min). Clamped down right on the coupling and replaced the elbow. Sounds about right?

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