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Old 07-22-2017, 02:18 AM   #1
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Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


I have a main water line shut off valve inside that doesn't completely work, it doesn't stop the water. It's probably decades old. It looks unlike all my other shutoffs, it's bigger. A picture of it is attached.

I think I can go outside and turn the street shut off to shut off the water. If I can do that is there any way that I can repair this valve without cutting it out of the line and putting a new one in? Does anyone recognize it and know what pieces I would need? Thanks
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Old 07-22-2017, 06:11 AM   #2
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


Ideally changing it to a ball valve would be of the best benefit, but you can rebuild the insides of this valve fairly easily. Most likely changing the cone/flat washer on the bottom of the stem will do what you want.

Turn the water off at the street, Open the valve fully, then undo the body nut to allow you to continue unscrewing the handle and remove the stem. If the washer isn't intact, pieces may be left in the bowl. Opening the water for a couple of seconds at the street should flush them out. Then replace the cone/flat washer on the stem end and reassemble.
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Old 07-22-2017, 06:39 AM   #3
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


Whether the valve is a Globe valve or Gate valve, attempting to repair them is often not very successful. Replacing should be fairly easy but remember this is plumbing. The galvanized nipple, pictured to the left of the valve may need to be replaced also, depending if it crumbles when removing the valve. From experience I would leave the nipple screwed into the valve and replace it as well as the valve.
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Old 07-22-2017, 07:24 AM   #4
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


I agree, it could be a gate valve, and repair won't be successful. I looked at the nipple on the left, but couldn't determine if it was galvanized or not. Replacing the entire thing with a ball valve will save a bunch of problems later on. Luckily you have a union right there, so disassembly will be easy.
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Old 07-22-2017, 09:26 AM   #5
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


Maybe I'm all wet but I think that is copper pipe with a threaded ell, then a short nipple, the valve ( a globe valve) a threaded adapter and then a copper flair fitting.

You can probably remove the valve stem and replace the washer but the seat is probably shot and the washer won't last long. I would give it a try, you don't open and close that valve every day.

If repairing the valve doesn't work for you, cut the pipe along the wall before the ell and put in a Sharkbite valve. Just leave old valve open.
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Old 07-22-2017, 09:42 AM   #6
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


This might work for you.
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Old 07-23-2017, 12:58 AM   #7
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


Thanks guys. I removed some putty/crud on the valve and there's an etching Hammond 606 which I looked up and is a brass gate valve. The pipe on the left has crumbly scale on the outside and scratched silver so it's probably galvanized pipe. The pipe on the right is copper.

Kinda off topic or kinda related... but do dielectric nipples work? I don't know what The nipples are but those two metals connected by the brass valve have held up for years, shouldn't the steel have rotted away due to galvanic corrosion?
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Old 07-23-2017, 07:42 AM   #8
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


Take a wire brush to every thing from 2" before the ell show us a picture.

Can't tell sizes from photos but looks like you have 1" soft copper coming from the street (the right), a flare fitting into the valve, a 1" brass valve, a 3/4 to 1 bushing, a 3/4" close nipple, 3/4" sweat to threaded copper ell and then 3/4 hard copper.

I don't see any threads on the pipe side of the ell.

Shine up that ell and post pic.

I don't like gate valves. You close them, then when you go back to open them the gate comes off the stem and you are stuck with no water.
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Old 07-23-2017, 10:17 AM   #9
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


Quote:
Originally Posted by hkstroud View Post

I don't like gate valves. You close them, then when you go back to open them the gate comes off the stem and you are stuck with no water.
I would estimate about 99.9 percent of that problem is from the lack of knowledge.

People just don't realize the taper construction causes the gate to stick as if it were a Morse taper, crank down on the knob because of a couple of drips after closing and there the gate, by design, tends to stay.
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Old 07-24-2017, 10:50 PM   #10
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


Quote:
Originally Posted by hkstroud View Post
Shine up that ell and post pic.
I used a wire brush on the nipple and the 90 turn but I can't tell what it is. I thought it was copper at first but it's a little too bright for copper. Pics are attached.
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Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?-ell1.jpg   Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?-ell2.jpg  
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Old 07-25-2017, 05:09 AM   #11
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


You may be in better shape than we originally thought. You have brass fittings which won't cause any electrolysis problems. If you remove the incoming flare fitting, that will release the valve to be unscrewed from the brass nipple. I would leave that and attach a new ball valve to it. Then reconfigure the supply end to accommodate the flare fitting. You may possibly need to use the old connections, or make new ones.
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:28 AM   #12
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


Well, you shined up the wrong pipe. However, I'm confidant that the other joint is a copper sweat fitting.

So, get yourself a 1" ball valve, female pipe threads each end. Get some pipe dope. Turn off water at the street. Loosen the flare nut. Remove the flare adapter from old valve. Remove the old valve by holding the reducing bushing on the house side and turning the valve.

Clean up threads of bushing with wire brush if necessary. Coat with generous coating of pipe dope. Clean up threads of flare adapter and coat with pipe dope.

Install new valve by holding reducing bushing and turning new valve. Install the flare adapter in new valve.
Reconnect the flare nut. Put a little pipe dope on the threads of the adapter and on the mating surface of the adapter. Pipe dope is not a sealer, it is a lubricant. A little on the threads will make the nut tighten easier. A little on the mating surface between the adapter and the flare of the copper pipe will help it seat better.

You will need the valve, pipe dope and two pipe wrenches. You may or may not need a street key to turn the water off and on.

Are you done yet?

Footnote #1.
Before starting, compare the new valve to the old . The new valve may be more compact then the old valve. Depending on flexibility of the soft copper you may need to replace the brass nipple with a slightly longer one.

Footnote #2.
Remember you are working with brass and copper. They are soft. While things need to be tight, don't over do it.
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Old 07-27-2017, 02:01 AM   #13
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


Thanks guys. I've read all ball valves aren't the same quality, do you have any suggestions as to brand?
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Old 07-27-2017, 05:16 AM   #14
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Re: Is there any way to repair this valve that doesn't shut off fully?


Any brand that doesn't say Made in China will do fine. Watts, Everbilt (Italy) and others.
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