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Old 12-20-2015, 08:34 PM   #16
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ok thanks. It seems like the installation made it more complicated than it needs to be.

If I need to re-route the exhaust from the water heater...is that just standard HVAC piping?

Of course, I'm sure there are codes in the number of twists and bends...but is it just a standard HVAC....not any internal insulation or anything?


Thanks
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:04 PM   #17
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Yes there are codes to be followed. That looks like standard pipe not b vent. Check local codes in your area first on what type of pipe should be used.
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:45 AM   #18
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There can be a few feet of pipe between the expansion tank and where it is hooked into the water line, if this helps with positioning and clearance. The expansion tank can be in any position, air valve up is the best.

Regardless of where and how the expansion tank is positioned, it is a good idea to have a tether or other support for it so that if it should fill with water, it won't sag and break off and then the open pipe floods the place.
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:47 PM   #19
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A tether is a great idea...but most likely too "hard" for the builder's plumbers to have done. In other words....the bare minimum...no tether and I just figured out the tank they installed 8 years ago is too small, and undersized for a 75 gal tank!

Friggin idiots. So I will def. need to change the exhaust....

500 K gets you sheet! these days!
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:52 PM   #20
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Ok the proper tank (4.5gal) is huge compared to the builder's. My pressure into the house is....70 psi....I mis-read the gauge previously in this thread.

I have the valve above the water heater closed (no cold water going into tank) I have the hot water heater off...of course and the gas supply shutoff.

I have a faucet open to let the pressure off...someone suggested to be careful with the faucet on the tank since sometimes they get stuck open.....true/not true?

Anyway....it has now been 20 minutes and water still coming out of the faucet on full hot (water temp is cold). How long should it take?

I opened an upstairs faucet and it was disturbing since there was a very loud shriek (at first I thought a fire alarm) from the pipes in the basement...the noise stopped with only a first floor faucet open.

Thoughts or hints?

Thanks
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Old 12-28-2015, 04:28 PM   #21
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Sounds like Something is not shut off completly. Should only need to drain a couple gallons to swap out tank.

Only really need a small one gallon tank. Up to you.

Post pics of shut off. Thanks.
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Old 12-28-2015, 04:51 PM   #22
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Thanks for the reply. I called a local plumbing company and they were nice enough to answer a few questions. He said that sometimes a faucet can be faulty allowing cold water to migrate back into the hot water lines.

I never knew this....but it sounds plausible.

So either I have a bad faucet (s) or a bad valve going into the hot water heater. I shut off the main house supply and the faucets stopped in 30 seconds.

Of course I had the hot water exhaust apart to make room for the correctly sized expansion tank. 75 gal hot water tank at 70 psi....totally need a 4.5gal expansion tank. I had the Village inspector and I paid my own home inspector...both missed it.

I tried to unscrew the existing (small) expansion tank and it wouldn't budge...so I give up. I don't mind paying a plumber...I just wish my crystal ball told me all the trouble it was going to be.
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:01 PM   #23
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Sorry you are having a difficult time.

If you dont feel comfortable doing it you did the right thing by calling a pro. Sometimes you need two wrenches on those exp tanks. They may have put it on cross threaded.

Let us know how everything works out for you. Thanks. Have a happy new year.
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:10 PM   #24
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How many gallon hot water tank do you have? That size determines the expansion tank size.
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:16 PM   #25
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I always appreciate the true tradesmen and professionals on here...always a great help.

I need the larger expansion tank...75 gal. hot water heater with a 70psi water pressure.

After doing some reading...I wish I had known that a better installation of this thing is vertical...mine is off a T at a right angle to the cold water pipe to the hot water tank. The loads on the pipe connection (without strapping) seems like a problem waiting to happen.

Thanks again....now I have to clean up the basement to have a plumber over...so my wife will be happy that it gets cleaned up a bit!
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:24 PM   #26
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Please change out the leaking PRV for your safety. I've seen those so full of mineral deposits there would be no way they would have an opportunity to work correctly. Well water often worse than municipal water but there is no guarantee there.

Yours may just leak but they are the least expensive insurance you'll ever purchase.
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:43 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kree View Post
Of course I had the hot water exhaust apart to make room for the correctly sized expansion tank. 75 gal hot water tank at 70 psi....totally need a 4.5gal expansion tank. I had the Village inspector and I paid my own home inspector...both missed it.
You are correct, the 5 gallon exp. tank is the one you need. My bad, missed the 75 gallon part. Thought it was a 40 gallon.

As mentioned, don't forget to replace that leaking tpr valve as well.
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:54 PM   #28
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the RV doesn't "leak" as in drip....it really does what it is supposed to do. It burbs out 2 cups of water after every shower.

The failed expansion tank is creating a situation where the RV must release. So how many times can this occur and damage the RV...once? 5x? 10x?


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Old 12-29-2015, 08:24 AM   #29
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The RV may not seal properly after a while, that's why we don't relive the pressure using them. I have seen them not seal back up properly after people use them to drain off water to do work on the system.
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:12 PM   #30
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Ok...I went to the big box store and reading their brand....my 75 gal tank and 52 psi water pressure is right on the chart in between the small size and the large size.

The chart goes from 60 GAL TO 80 GAL as the changeover point....so could I get away with the smaller tank and avoiding the re-routing of the exhaust?

Also when this thing fails again, 2 gal of water vs 4 gal of water is a big weight difference.

Thoughts?
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