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Old 02-02-2016, 10:53 PM   #1
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Spout and showerhead


I have a two handle system in my shower, water come out spout and showerhead at the time unless I pull the diverter off the spout(then it just showerhead). Took off the spout, water still come out both. Any idea?
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Old 02-03-2016, 04:15 AM   #2
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Couple of questions, Are you plumbed in pex? Is your tub spout at least 9" below the valve body?
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Old 02-03-2016, 05:35 AM   #3
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It's copper...I will check but I don't think it's 9".
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Old 02-03-2016, 06:28 AM   #4
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put a new tub spout with diverter in, the diverter is worn and wont hold the suction unless you hold it up...
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Old 02-03-2016, 06:37 AM   #5
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if you pulled off the diverter spout and water still comes out of both ..seems there is a clog inside the faucet...somewhere. how old is the faucet...has it ever worked right..
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Old 02-03-2016, 07:02 AM   #6
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While the diverter spout is off, use a coat hanger wire to see if you can find and reach a clog in that vicinity.

Spout diverters work using gravity. The path to the shower is always open. When you pull the spout diverter you block the spout so the water has to go the other way, up to the shower.
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Old 02-03-2016, 07:34 AM   #7
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While the diverter spout is off, use a coat hanger wire to see if you can find and reach a clog in that vicinity.

Spout diverters work using gravity. The path to the shower is always open. When you pull the spout diverter you block the spout so the water has to go the other way, up to the shower.
I was thinking partially clog...will check that now. Thx guys





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if you pulled off the diverter spout and water still comes out of both ..seems there is a clog inside the faucet...somewhere. how old is the faucet...has it ever worked right..
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:12 AM   #8
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Doesn't seem clog
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Old 02-07-2016, 11:22 AM   #9
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It's copper...I will check but I don't think it's 9".
If you're finding that water comes out the spout when you're wanting to shower, it's because the diverter in your tub diverter spout is worn out and needs to be replaced. You can normally buy the parts to repair a diverter spout, but if you have a copper pipe coming out of the wall that the diverter spout mounts on, I'd recommend you replace your diverter spout with a Moen Model 3931 diverter spout, which you should be able to order from any plumbing company in your area.

A Moen 3931 is the best slip-on spout made in my opinion because:

1. It has something called a "cup washer" that presses up against the end of the copper pipe to make a dripless seal when the diverter is engaged. That improves shower performance because you're not leaking any water out the end of the spout. Cheap diverter spouts made in China simply have a hard plastic gate that leaks like crazy, and that results in about half the water leaking out the spout. That's a problem because then the shower head isn't SPRAYING water on you, it's just SPILLING water on you.

2. It has a yoke that clamps onto the OD of the copper pipe (rather than a set screw) so it grips the entire outside diameter of the copper pipe. That allows you to secure the spout onto the copper pipe securely without concern that you're damaging the pipe.

And, just like any other good quality diverter spout, you can buy a rebuild kit for the diverter. It's Moen Part number 10644.

Be sure to file down the end of your copper pipe before putting your diverter spout on. That's because the pipe cutter wheel used to cut the pipe will leave a ridge around the end of the pipe that will damage the O-ring inside the spout when you push it on. Filing that ridge off ensures that you don't damage that O-ring. Slather up the copper pipe with dish washing detergent, slide your diverter spout on, make sure it's oriented right and tighten the spout onto the copper pipe.

G'Luck.
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Old 02-07-2016, 11:24 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by plumberinlaw View Post
Couple of questions, Are you plumbed in pex? Is your tub spout at least 9" below the valve body?
Why does the tub spout have to be at least 9 inches below the valve body?
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Old 02-07-2016, 11:38 AM   #11
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The poster is saying water comes out of the shower when he runs water in the bath. Not the other way round (water out the spout when showering).

His problem is a restricted flow to the tub spout. Can be a clog in the valve or the diverter, or restricted piping between the valve and the diverter spout.

I would remove the diverter spout and see if it still occurs. Hold a bucket over the diverter pipe to prevent water from spraying every where.

See if it occurs when only running hot or cold alone.
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Old 02-07-2016, 02:19 PM   #12
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Sounds like it's worn. I'd replace with a Moen. Ever faucet I've replaced with a Moen I never touched again. My wife got a fancy brass fixture for the kitchen. Replaced once under warranty. Replaced that one with a Moen and never touched it since.
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Old 02-07-2016, 02:51 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by rjniles View Post
The poster is saying water comes out of the shower when he runs water in the bath. Not the other way round (water out the spout when showering).
Thanks for clarifying that, RJNiles. I was having trouble understanding his post.

I agree that there's got to be a blockage in the piping or faucet body somewhere. Maybe shut off the water to the faucet and remove the faucet hot and cold cartridges. Have a helper hold a 5 gallon pail over the faucet to catch the water and turn on each water shut off valve for a few seconds. Hopefully that will flush the blockage out of the system.

The blockage might be a bibb screw head. Years ago plumbers used a trick for getting bibb screws to "tighten up" at the right place. They'd insert the screw through the rubber washer and then use a pair of side cutters to muck up the threads of the screw on the back side of the rubber washer. Then when you put that screw into the spindle, the mucked up threads on the screw would cause that screw to tighten up at exactly the right place.

The problem with doing that is that the brass would corrode where the screw threads were mucked up and the bibb screw head would break off and cause a blockage in the water supply piping.
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Old 02-07-2016, 03:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nestor_Kelebay View Post
Thanks for clarifying that, RJNiles. I was having trouble understanding his post.

I agree that there's got to be a blockage in the piping or faucet body somewhere. Maybe shut off the water to the faucet and remove the faucet hot and cold cartridges. Have a helper hold a 5 gallon pail over the faucet to catch the water and turn on each water shut off valve for a few seconds. Hopefully that will flush the blockage out of the system.

The blockage might be a bibb screw head. Years ago plumbers used a trick for getting bibb screws to "tighten up" at the right place. They'd insert the screw through the rubber washer and then use a pair of side cutters to muck up the threads of the screw on the back side of the rubber washer. Then when you put that screw into the spindle, the mucked up threads on the screw would cause that screw to tighten up at exactly the right place.

The problem with doing that is that the brass would corrode where the screw threads were mucked up and the bibb screw head would break off and cause a blockage in the water supply piping.
Might be an older 2 handle valve with washers instead of cartridges. But I agree, pull the stems and flush out the valve.
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Old 02-11-2016, 12:57 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Nestor_Kelebay View Post
Why does the tub spout have to be at least 9 inches below the valve body?
the turbulence from the valve body quickly going into a 90 is frequently enough restriction to cause this problem. The 9 in. distance between the valve and the tub spout usually solves this problem. Pex causes this problem when it is used between the valve and tub spout because of it's smaller I.D. is so restrictive. In that case I usually put a valve between the shower arm and the shower head
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