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Old 12-13-2013, 10:56 AM   #1
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Shower pan: Is there anything wrong or missing ?


Hi, Im going to tile for shower. After researching, I plan to do as shown in picture.

Please let me know is this OK? any advise / tip welcome.
Thanks
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:55 PM   #2
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What you are showing as "metal wire" should be 2" x 2" x 0.0163" (26 gauge) galvanized welded wire fabric. The fabric is placed in the middle of the mud bed, not on the bottom.

Only a small amount of pea gravel is needed around the drain base (as high as the weep holes and as close to the drain base as possible). Too much gravel will create a poor support for the tile.

Hey! Your ceramic tile is missing (wink).
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:27 PM   #3
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Thank for reply: "Metal wire" is metal lath I bought from HomeDepot near kerdi / shower stuff so I guessed it is the right one.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/27-in-x-8...ATH/202093395#

- Using 2x2" 26 gauge as you mentioned looks stronger. Where Can i find these wires?
- It seems you saying about the classic method with middle liner between 2 cement mud bed. I am not using liner in the middle, just Redgard on top of only 1 layer of slopy cement mud bed. (this method I followed http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/...-shower-cheap/ ) Just try to break it down in detail. Can you confirm this method OK with no leak?
- Thanks for telling me about the small pea gravels. Can I just have them about same size of the thinset motar thickness underneath the tiles?

-pic updated
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nnoobb View Post
Thank for reply: "Metal wire" is metal lath I bought from HomeDepot near kerdi / shower stuff so I guessed it is the right one.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/27-in-x-8...ATH/202093395#

- Using 2x2" 26 gauge as you mentioned looks stronger. Where Can i find these wires?
- It seems you saying about the classic method with middle liner between 2 cement mud bed. I am not using liner in the middle, just Redgard on top of only 1 layer of slopy cement mud bed. (this method I followed http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/...-shower-cheap/ ) Just try to break it down in detail. Can you confirm this method OK with no leak?
- Thanks for telling me about the small pea gravels. Can I just have them about same size of the thinset motar thickness underneath the tiles?

-pic updated

After you put all that together I strongly suggest you block off the drain and fill the shower with water. Let it sit over night any leaks tear it out...

I would also follow redgard install instructions first...

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Old 12-13-2013, 06:43 PM   #5
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There is a thing or two about that job you have wrong---

You have the wrong drain for a surface membrane shower---you need a Schluter or Latacrete drain with a membrane attached---water will not be getting under the top slope--so the weep holes become a leak under your membrane---

There is a method to use a membrane drain---to see the 'divot ' method,go to Latacretes site and look up 'Hydroban shower'---

Wire mesh in the deck mud is not usually done---you will be fine without it.

If you need more detailed info from me,it will have to wait till I eat---

How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

This site will give you the mix for deck mud---
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:55 PM   #6
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Want a good shower stall pan cheap. Use floor lino. I built one of these about 20 years ago in the upstairs bathroom and has never leaked. I was so impressed I built another one in the basement just recently when it was time to renew that bathroom.

The lino is all one piece and is not cut at all in the corners. Instead it is folded like you would folding a corner on a Christmas present, and it rides about 6 inches up the wall (4 inches past the reveal under the cedar). The base under the lino is two 3/4 inch pieces of ply glued and screwed and it has been sloped to one corner where the drain is located. An area around the drain has been routered down about an1/8 inch so that when the drain is tightened down the flange of the drain sucks the lino down into the routered area creating as seal and also flushing itself to the surface of the tray so there is no water ring left around the drain after a shower.



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Old 12-17-2013, 08:13 AM   #7
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Thanks everyone for replying.
@Bob : Where I can find "floor lino" in Toronto?
@Ghostmaker: The Youtube clip shows the whole Redgard kit with the pre-built base. Question is: Can I avoid the pre-built base? Just Liquid Redgrad on top only one cement bed mud?
@Mike: Hydroban shower looks great like schuler / kerdi system. I dont see it around here. I just have Home Depot, Rona, Lowes and Canadiantire around here. Your site shows the classical method with liner between 2 bed muds. Why do you need metal wire on top liner? just for forming the curb of what else? I feel it can make pinhole on line.

Anyone used to Redgard or liquid membrane , please give me a confirm of the picture?
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:11 PM   #8
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Hi, my name is Bob from Myrtle Beach. I am in the process of doing a shower pan and wondering how you made out with your original plan. I am planning on doing the same thing with liquid Redgard. What did you end up doing around the drain, and did you use a standard Oatey drain or a special type?
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Old 01-22-2016, 04:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbannan1 View Post
Hi, my name is Bob from Myrtle Beach. I am in the process of doing a shower pan and wondering how you made out with your original plan. I am planning on doing the same thing with liquid Redgard. What did you end up doing around the drain, and did you use a standard Oatey drain or a special type?

For some good videos on shower pan making --go to the Latacrete website
-Look for 'Hydroban showers"
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Old 01-22-2016, 06:11 PM   #10
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Bob you want to do a shower pan right the first time. I would look at the videos above that are suggested. If you get it wrong the damage to your house usually cost a ton more money.
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:41 PM   #11
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Ghostmaker is right----learn the proper way---I build a lot of pans---

I use a liner over framing and the Hydroban only over a concrete slab----

The hydroban is approved over framing----but I just don't feel safe doing it.
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:51 PM   #12
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Just finished my shower, took the easy way out with a fiberglass plan and like how it looks plus no worries of it leaking. I know pro's will take jabs at me for not tiling the floor but for a diy'er I like how it came out.
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:14 AM   #13
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A fiberglass or onyx pan is a fine option--the tiled bases have been popular for many years, but are more maintenance--more likely to fail--and a very different look than a cast pan---

I rather like the look of a cast pan--clean and simple.
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:56 AM   #14
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Cast pan


Thank you for your help.I have already started in another direction.
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Old 01-23-2016, 01:20 PM   #15
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I think it's the best way. For a while we had to inspect shower base installs in residential applications. We found 40% were leaking or not following the manufactures install instructions.

For example Not wrapping the threshold of the shower with water proof material to the front. Not sealing corners. Not pitching or leaving dips so water would pond in the base. Just leaking like a sieve. My favorite was adding a seat on the side that the spray hits with no water seal at all... Makes a secret aquarium.

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