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Old 01-25-2015, 07:54 PM   #16
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Take the same amount of effort to do it correctly the first time vs incorrectly its perfectly acceptable for a DIYer but not by someone claiming to know drainage and venting and may do it for a living. do it right the first time so you dont have to do it again.
yeah, but i guess you missed the part about me having a "brain cramp".
thankfully the result did not have me doing it over.
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:31 PM   #17
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yeah, but i guess you missed the part about me having a "brain cramp".
thankfully the result did not have me doing it over.
Sewer Rat may taste like pumpkin pie but id never eat it. thats kool dude if your content with doing things half ass good for you, however if you're giving advice free or charged you should only supply correct information. brain farts we've all had them hell i've taken apart a complete ground rough branch tossed them away and started over again could have left it in the ground no one would ever know but me, but i like to do things the right way, thats why in 30 plus years never had a problem with a customer/job/project. i guess we should be grateful for guys like you that give us things to fix and make money.
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:36 PM   #18
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What code are you under i see a solution to pipe it in correctly but you'll have to cut it all out and start again you have a sanitary on its side which should not be there even if its on a dry vent.
Well crap. I'm all ears though. Code is 2012 UPC
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:53 PM   #19
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Sewer Rat may taste like pumpkin pie but id never eat it. thats kool dude if your content with doing things half ass good for you, however if you're giving advice free or charged you should only supply correct information. brain farts we've all had them hell i've taken apart a complete ground rough branch tossed them away and started over again could have left it in the ground no one would ever know but me, but i like to do things the right way, thats why in 30 plus years never had a problem with a customer/job/project. i guess we should be grateful for guys like you that give us things to fix and make money.
yeah. my experience in dealing with most contractors = i do better work than they do. and, to add, my piping was approved by this forums pro's. to the point of them saying i did better work than some pro's. this was my first real plumbing job. so if it doesn't fit your criteria, i don't give a ****. it IS working just fine, and will do so until it is replaced in a year or 2. i must be a great diyer, i did it half assed and it still works fine
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:00 PM   #20
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Sewer Rat may taste like pumpkin pie but id never eat it. thats kool dude if your content with doing things half ass good for you, however if you're giving advice free or charged you should only supply correct information. brain farts we've all had them hell i've taken apart a complete ground rough branch tossed them away and started over again could have left it in the ground no one would ever know but me, but i like to do things the right way, thats why in 30 plus years never had a problem with a customer/job/project. i guess we should be grateful for guys like you that give us things to fix and make money.


I agree with the above sentiment 100%. Folks come here to hopefully do or fix something to the code that applies. There never is an excuse to give bad advice.
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:17 PM   #21
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ok. you guys want to beat me up some more. tell me what bad advice i gave ?
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:47 PM   #22
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Maybe I'm seeing it wrong but 1)remove the dry vent which is wrong anyway (can't use a T there). 2) run the vanity drain in 2" down to enter the 3" where the shower now enters the 3" and pick up the shower into this same 2" drain.

The vanity wet vent will vent all three fixtures.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:01 PM   #23
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Where does the 3" go downstream of the shower? why not put the shower wye further downstream and put its vent in the shower wall- if there is one.

If your lav is currently piped in 2" and vented in 2" then that is your toilet vent. So the 3x2 tee and vent is not needed.
UPC wants a 2" wc vent within 6'- the 2" lav does this.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:46 PM   #24
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not familiar with UPC but this may work for you if you have an area to raise the vent behind next to the wc?? don't know the floor plan above some one familiar can give you this distantances on trp vent runs,, under the ipc you'd be venting toilet and shower on a wet vent
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:52 AM   #25
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i did the same thing in my shower = brain cramp and made an S-trap. i have no issues with it at all. and i bet you will not either. as there isn't going to be enough water in that pipe to create a vacuum .
WOW! Makes me wonder what the rest of Fix'n it's house smells like if they can not smell sewer gas in the shower area!
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:08 AM   #26
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not familiar with UPC but this may work for you if you have an area to raise the vent behind next to the wc?? don't know the floor plan above some one familiar can give you this distantances on trp vent runs,, under the ipc you'd be venting toilet and shower on a wet vent
For the shower walls, one wall is in the joist bay to the right of the joist bay with the 3" piping in it. The other wall is above the end of the 3x2 shower wye.


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Maybe I'm seeing it wrong but 1)remove the dry vent which is wrong anyway (can't use a T there). 2) run the vanity drain in 2" down to enter the 3" where the shower now enters the 3" and pick up the shower into this same 2" drain.

The vanity wet vent will vent all three fixtures.
Just out of curiosity, why do codes disallow a tee on its back for a vent? This is for curiosity sake, I accept that I did it wrong and need to change it.

That is possible to do. How is the horizontal run to the vanity used as a wet vent for the shower any different then a horizontal dry vent ran to the shower drain arm? Likelyhood of getting blocked since there is no regular water coming down the dry vent?


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Where does the 3" go downstream of the shower? why not put the shower wye further downstream and put its vent in the shower wall- if there is one.

If your lav is currently piped in 2" and vented in 2" then that is your toilet vent. So the 3x2 tee and vent is not needed.
UPC wants a 2" wc vent within 6'- the 2" lav does this.
the 3x2 wye for the shower has a street 90 in the end which then dumps into the main stack. There is a brick chimney about 6" beyond the end of the shower 3x2 wye.

Lav is 2" drain and 1.5" vent which then ties back into the 2" dry vent up in the wall. I can still change it if necessary though.
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:22 AM   #27
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Just out of curiosity, why do codes disallow a tee on its back for a vent? This is for curiosity sake,
The "sweep" or curve on a sani-tee is a bit abbreviated (sharper) compared to a standard drain fitting. This sharper sani-tee turndown is okay when the flow of water goes from horizontal-to-vertical -- thanks to gravity's help -- but is likely to clog when used to redirect drainage from vertical-to-horizontal. When going from vertical-to-horizontal, a longer & gentler sweep is required to keep clogs from forming.

When used as a dry vent, I see no problems using a sani-tee on it's back, since a vent tee (very sharp corners / no curve at all) would also be allowed. However, remember that vent is not a dry vent until it's at least 6" above the flood rim of the fixture(s) it serves. Once you're within the flood rim zone, code wants you to use drainage (gentle-sweep curve) fittings. The idea is that should a pipe clog and back up, you want the backed up water to easily drain out once the clog is resolved.

To be honest, I don't see a problem using a sani-tee on it's back for a vent even below the flood rim. I think it will drain well enough in the rare event of a backup, and if I were an inspector, I would let it slide. But, that is my opinion only and is not supported by code. In this case, the code seems to be a little over-cautious IMHO.
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:13 PM   #28
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Just out of curiosity, why do codes disallow a tee on its back for a vent? This is for curiosity sake, I accept that I did it wrong and need to change it.
ent?



If you did not have the flat section my inspectors would probably except the tee though most good plumbers will opt for a Wye.
Also, we do some flat venting locally with wyes but it's based on structural conditions- it has to be the only alternative
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:18 PM   #29
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If your lav vent was 2" and within 6' of the toilet then it will serve as the toilet vent. Then we need to figure out how to flatten out the shower line.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:52 PM   #30
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WOW! Makes me wonder what the rest of Fix'n it's house smells like if they can not smell sewer gas in the shower area!

yet ANOTHER "know it all" .... pound sand buddy.

my house doesn't smell AT ALL. well, except for paint, as that is what i just finished.
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