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Old 03-26-2015, 07:18 PM   #1
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Rerouting PVC pipes through floor joists


Hi all,

I want to reroute what I believe is my main water supply lines from their existing position under the joists to through the floor joists. Is this something a novice like me should do? I have worked with PVC piping before, so I'm comfortable with that. Is there anything I should pay attention to? Like width of the hole through the joists? Special hangers or fittings? I hope the pictures explain what I'm trying to do. The existing position really annoys me because the ceiling is not flat in the other room, and I'm planning on finishing the rest of it. Thanks!
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:25 PM   #2
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Appears to be cpvc not standard pvc so be sure to get the right cleaner and yellow cpvc glue. One of the structural guys around here will comment on drilling through the joists, I believe if you keep holes near center they will be fine
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:38 PM   #3
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If you leave 2" of wood when you drill you'll be fine.
When I drill for 1/2" - 1" lines I drill 1-3/8" holes. Pound in anchors are universal to that hole size.
http://www.plumbingandfire.com/pipe-...insulator.html
Support at every hole
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:00 PM   #4
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measure the room you have after you come up the reqiured 2" from bottom of joist..looks like the heat run my give you some trouble and yes it should be something you can do
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Old 03-27-2015, 09:25 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olcrazy1 View Post
Appears to be cpvc not standard pvc so be sure to get the right cleaner and yellow cpvc glue. One of the structural guys around here will comment on drilling through the joists, I believe if you keep holes near center they will be fine
Do I need CPVC for cold supply? Or can I use regular ole PVC?

Can one buy CPVC and the cleaner and glue in the big box stores (lowes, HD)?
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Old 03-27-2015, 09:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
If you leave 2" of wood when you drill you'll be fine.
When I drill for 1/2" - 1" lines I drill 1-3/8" holes. Pound in anchors are universal to that hole size.
http://www.plumbingandfire.com/pipe-...insulator.html
Support at every hole
By 2", do you mean from the bottom of the joist?
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:03 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by gtothek View Post
By 2", do you mean from the bottom of the joist?
Yes, that's the minimum. But the closer you stay to the dead center the better, especially as you get closer to the middle of the span.
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Old 03-27-2015, 11:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtothek View Post
Do I need CPVC for cold supply? Or can I use regular ole PVC?

Can one buy CPVC and the cleaner and glue in the big box stores (lowes, HD)?
yes you need cpvc...and yes big box have them
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:51 PM   #9
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No PVC should be used inside a house except for drain lines.
It would be a whole lot faster, less fittings and easier to run Pex.
It also would allow you to get rid of those plastic ball valves.
After a few years there near impossible to turn after a few years.
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Old 03-27-2015, 08:06 PM   #10
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You can also buy one step CPVC glue its yellow and needs no primer.
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Old 03-27-2015, 08:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
No PVC should be used inside a house except for drain lines.
It would be a whole lot faster, less fittings and easier to run Pex.
It also would allow you to get rid of those plastic ball valves.
After a few years there near impossible to turn after a few years.
Is PEX more expensive and are special tools/skills needed to work with it? Is PEX available in big box stores now?

Thank you all for the advice and help!
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Old 03-27-2015, 09:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtothek View Post
Is PEX more expensive and are special tools/skills needed to work with it? Is PEX available in big box stores now?

Thank you all for the advice and help!
DiYer here who chose not to go with PEX, but it was a close call. Cost is generally comparable. You need a crimp tool for the brand you choose. I sided against it because I figure CPVC will always be available and I won't have to hunt for a particular brand during a later repair, when maybe a big box store or local plumbing supply has changed brands. PEX also makes your pipes bright colors, which may or may not affect your decision.

That being said, PEX does have one major advantage for a project going through lots of joists: it's flexible.
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:12 PM   #13
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Personally I would install a drop ceiling so access to the mechanics doesn't require tearing out a ceiling.
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:22 PM   #14
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Pex has been around in the US for at least 10 years, even longer over seas.
It can be connected with a Shark Bite fitting, no tool needed.
It expands instead of bursting when frozen.
Does not matter if they change brands the sizes remain the same.
Not sure how color would even be a factor. Sure makes it easier to ID which line is the hot water when making long runs if you use the red and clear for the cold.
Use a Shark Bite ball valve and once again no tools required.
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Old 03-27-2015, 11:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtothek View Post
Do I need CPVC for cold supply? Or can I use regular ole PVC?

Can one buy CPVC and the cleaner and glue in the big box stores (lowes, HD)?

you CAN use CPVC for cold water, however you cannot use PVC for hot water, needs to be CPVC. For cold water you can use either but hot must be CPVC, most however will use pvc for cold so that others can easily distinguish between hot & cold water.

You might want to check & be 100% certain that the water flowing through the pipe is indeed cold water, easiest way to do that would be turn on the hot water faucets in your house(preferably the one your current pipe is feeding into, let em run for 5 mins then feel the pipe & see if it is warm or hot to the touch.

but yes, pvc & CPVC along with all fittings & glue should be available at your local big box store. PEX, I am unsure. I have yet to see any PEX pipe at my local big box stores, only if I go to special plumbing supply warehouses.
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