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Old 12-02-2015, 08:09 AM   #1
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Replacing Some Galvanized Pipe


While I was making glorious plans on how to move my washer to another room, it overflowed through the sink at its current location. Here is what the setup was (as we bought the house and probably as it had been for 20-30 years; sorry, my camera failed me this morning so I have no picture): a sanitary tee on a vertical two inch cast iron stack (only kitchen sink with disposal is above on this stack) followed by another sanitary tee on its back (the pipe up is the vent). These both are hub and bell tees. Next on the horizontal is a 1 1/2 galvanized pipe of about 2 ft length. This joins the cast iron with lead and oakum. Next on the horizontal is a pressure tee laying on its side. The side inlet was connected to a small sink through a P-trap. The straight had a reduction to 1 inch, then a reduction to 3/4 then a nipple followed by a piece allowing the connection of a garden hose. The hose from the washer was connected to that without any trap or air gap (the hose went up and down and up again so it effectively provided some form of a trap).

A support for the sink above was so close to the point of hose attachment that I could not get any access to try to clean out the pipes when my mother-in-law washed something that disintegrated in the washer and clogged the pipes forcing water back into the sink and overflowing after it was full. The sink and its supporting structure was removed. A small snake was pushed through the garden hose thing to clear the horizontal piping before being capped. I have temporarily connected a P-trap stand pipe to the side of the pressure tee where the sink used to be connected. The pipe/trap are 1 1/2 as the galvanized. The washer seems to drain fine now in spite of the smaller pipe diameter and the 90 degree bend due to the tee.

I need to put back a sink in that location. I realize that the proper way to do this is to remove the galvanized pipe completely and use 2" everywhere (maybe 1 1/2 for the sink trap). I am not comfortable removing the lead and oakum joint myself though. I am also suspicions how good of a seal one of the neoprene gaskets will give me when transitioning to plastic if the bell is not cleaned well. My current plan is to cut the galvanized pipe, so that I can remove the pressure tee, then use a fernco, then a wye on its side. The straight of the wye will be capped as a cleanout with the other inlet used for the sink. Due to the size of the galvanized, all this will be 1 1/2 size. Is this reasonable? Am I solving the problem or am I just leaving it in place?

I do not have a power tool to cut the galvanized pipe, so I am planning to use a hack-saw. Am I likely to dislodge the oakum/lead joint while trying to cut? That would be no fun and make this more complicated than I want.

The current plan calls for the hose from the washer to go into the sink. Should I consider putting a stand pipe with a trap on the straight of the wye for the washer and have it drain there instead of the sink? Will doing this cause water to back up into the sink when the washer discharges?
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:22 AM   #2
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You will get more accurate answers with a picture---

Is the two inch drain galvanizes steel or cast iron?

Cast iron can be cracked and broken with two hammers--hitting both sides at the same time----if you can remove the pipe from the hub--leaving the hub intact--

Then a rubber doughnut will seal your new PVC to the old hub----a shielded frenco fitting can be used where the pipe is without a hub--

A plumber will be along soon----one thought---if the old drain runs slowly---using a wash basin to catch the washing machine water might give you a reservoir to allow more gradual draining of the water.
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Old 12-02-2015, 10:04 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
You will get more accurate answers with a picture---
Is the two inch drain galvanizes steel or cast iron?
I will get a picture tonight.

The two sanitary tees are cast iron and both the stack and vent above are inside a wall, so I really do not want to mess with them now (there are probably other issues with the pipes above not making them up to code, but they work now so I prefer to leave them alone). I want to cut the galvanized pipe, so as to remove the pressure tee on it and the reducing couplings. The pipe itself seems in a great shape for 30 years old galvanized pipe (I looked inside with a flashlight).
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:05 PM   #4
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Cutting with a hack saw will work----a Sawsall is faster---but I've cut plenty with a hand operated one---

By the way--3o years is young for galvanized pipe---some will be rusty and crusty--but most will go on for many years to come.
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Last edited by oh'mike; 12-02-2015 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 12-02-2015, 10:06 PM   #5
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Here are the pictures of what I currently have and what I am thinking of doing.
Once again, the questions are:
1. Am I going to be able to cut that galvanized pipe without dislodging it from the cast iron tee?
2. Am I overdoing this by putting a standpipe, instead of just putting the hose in the new sink (to be installed)?
3. Do I really need to get rid of the pressure tee to which that black fernco is attached and replace it with a wye?

Once again, what you see in the photo is a temporary patch, there used to be a sink in there and the washer hose was attached to that garden hose connection which I have now capped.
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Replacing Some Galvanized Pipe-sink_basement.jpg   Replacing Some Galvanized Pipe-plan_basement.jpg  
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:49 AM   #6
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If it were up to me to fix that, I'd cut the galvanized pipe to the left of the 2x4 and then wiggle that pipe out of the cast iron hub--

Using a rubber doughnut, I would change the pipe for 2" PVC---
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:53 AM   #7
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If you are worried about sawsall breaking the lead packing, you can use a grinder. I've cut through cast iron with diamond dry grinder blades.
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