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Old 11-24-2015, 10:38 AM   #1
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Replacing one arm of a copper tee


I am looking to pull the 90 that's on the reduced (left in the picture) side of this tee and replace it with a tee



Can I wrap the other sides of the tee with a wet cloth and just clean, reflux, and resweat the one branch? I would prefer not to pull the whole thing if I don't have to.
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Old 11-24-2015, 10:43 AM   #2
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should be able to if you clean it good.
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Old 11-24-2015, 11:07 AM   #3
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Ayuh,.... Is the elbow a street fittin',..??

You'll probably need a short tubin' stub to sweat in for the T yer puttin' there,....
never seen a street T,...

Put the heat to the elbow, 'n ya may not even need the wet rags, though they won't hurt as a back up,...
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Old 11-24-2015, 11:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bondo View Post
Ayuh,.... Is the elbow a street fittin',..??

You'll probably need a short tubin' stub to sweat in for the T yer puttin' there,....
never seen a street T,...

Put the heat to the elbow, 'n ya may not even need the wet rags, though they won't hurt as a back up,...
Not a street fitting and there is a short stub in there, if I can get the 90 off the stub without disturbing that connection I'll reuse it but there is no gap there so i doubt it. I'll probably just replace the stub and clean everything up. I just don't want to pull that 1-1/4" pipe it will be a pain in the ass the redo that whole fitting
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Old 11-24-2015, 11:33 AM   #5
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Should be easy enough and straight forward. Only problem you may run into if you can't get all the water out of the line. Pita.

If that's the case, you can always cut the pipe by that elbow and replace with new fittings and piece of pipe. Wouldn't cost that much more and may be easier. Just a suggestion.

Looks like a boiler line.

Let us know how it works out for you. Thanks.

Last edited by jmon; 11-24-2015 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 11-29-2015, 07:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmon View Post
Should be easy enough and straight forward. Only problem you may run into if you can't get all the water out of the line. Pita.

If that's the case, you can always cut the pipe by that elbow and replace with new fittings and piece of pipe. Wouldn't cost that much more and may be easier. Just a suggestion.

Looks like a boiler line.

Let us know how it works out for you. Thanks.
So just an update; it did not go well at all, but everything is resolved now. It took a full day of vacuuming the entire system before I got enough water out to just remove the old fitting. The 90 came out in pieces after multiple attempts to reheat, hits with the hammer and cranks with the wrench. Once I got it out and everything cleaned up, it took some perfectly timed vacuuming and multiple map torches to get the new pipe hot enough to pull solder. Then after all was done, the system recharged, a gate valve that was at least 5 inches away started leaking. Drained the whole system again, carefully pulled it and just replaced with a shark bite ball valve.

I still have some questions about zone valve wiring but I'll make a new thread for that.

Thanks
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Old 11-29-2015, 07:56 PM   #7
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BTW, I didn't wrap the other sides of the tee before heating. With the water in there it was totally not neccesary.
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Old 11-29-2015, 07:58 PM   #8
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Sorry to hear about that Justin. Glad you got it all straightened out now.

When you make that new thread about the zone valve wiring, post it in the hvac forum for better results.
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:04 PM   #9
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That's what I was concerned with, not getting all the water out to unsolder.

Had a similar situation and ended up cutting the pipe to get the water out so I could solder/unsolder then rebuilt with a some new pipe and fittings.
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