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Old 10-28-2016, 03:07 PM   #1
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replacing galvanized pipe question


Hello to all,

Have a sm country place and I have replaced my last 1.25" ID galvanized main water-line pipe from well-house to house. This is the 7th time in 22 yrs. [2-3 times in the last 18 mo's]

I have 3-4 different faucets that have galvanized pipes. When I run my PVC to replace the faucet lines too, is there something else I can use other than galvanized pipe? I have had schedule 40 break during a hard freeze. If galvanized is my only option, is there something that you can line the inner ID so that it will not get corroded?

I'm open to all options. I guess there's copper, but I'm not into sweating the pipes..I appreciate all your feedback - thank you, tstex

Last edited by tstex; 10-28-2016 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:15 PM   #2
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


A lot of people, myself included, use PEX. Easy to work with, relatively low cost option. Galvanized pipe would be the last thing I would use for potable water.
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:17 PM   #3
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


Use PEX, PVC should never used for inside water supply's.
PEX will expand in most causes instead of bursting.
Something has to be really wrong with the way those pipe where run if in your area the pipes are bursting.
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:31 PM   #4
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


Dan and Joe - thanks

There is a PVC line coming out of the well house w "Drinking Water Pipe" on it, and 400psi. But, somewhere in the yard, he converts to galvanized. Some of the 1.25" ID's are reduced to a pencil, due to mineral deposits. The pipe has been buried since 1951, and he tied in these pipes to the new well in 1979.

I will run Pex from well-house to house water supply, then schedule 40 to feed the underground runs to the 3-4 faucets. Is the pex strong enough to stand on its own and hold the metal faucet head and too when the hose is attached and water run?

I changed out all the older runs of galvanized pipes to PVC and CPVC for bathroom runs. Is there a problem, just to ask, that the normal sch 40 or 80 has in them for potable water? Is this something inside the pipe that leaches out into the water, thus not for drinking?

Thanks again.
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:21 PM   #5
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


Some locations do not permit PEX for outdoor or buried use, check with your local plumbing inspector. Virtually all places allow high density polyethylene (HDPE) for outdoor use, with PEX for indoor use.
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:33 PM   #6
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


400 PSI this has to be a typo!
OK so what is "drinking water pipe"?
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:46 PM   #7
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


Wirsbo aquapex is rated for underground use. Your AHJ may have different requirements.


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Old 10-28-2016, 06:47 PM   #8
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


I'm a big fan of Uponor (wirsbo) Type-A PEX pipe. I'd run 1" Propex inside
a plastic conduit ( like that heavy grey PVC electrical stuff) for protection
and directly bury it the whole way from the pump house to the dwelling.
I'd rip out every piece of galvanized I could find and replace it with Uponor
PEX-A. Do it once right and forget about it.
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Old 10-28-2016, 07:01 PM   #9
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


I'm a big fan of Uponor (wirsbo) Type-A PEX pipe. I'd run 1" Propex inside
a plastic conduit ( like that heavy grey PVC electrical stuff) for protection
and directly bury it the whole way from the pump house to the dwelling.
I'd rip out every piece of galvanized I could find and replace it with Uponor
PEX-A. Do it once right and forget about it.
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Old 10-29-2016, 03:30 AM   #10
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


If Schedule 40 is breaking during a freeze, the pipe may not be buried deep enough for your climate.
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Old 10-29-2016, 01:11 PM   #11
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
400 PSI this has to be a typo!
OK so what is "drinking water pipe"?
Joe, the pipe was labeled with that text and spec. I believe it was installed around mid-late 70's, so for PVC, it had to state for drinking water. The PSI did saw 400. It was 1.25" pipe...it was the main line coming off the well. I will take a picture of it when I am out there next time. Prob mid next week. thanks
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Old 10-29-2016, 01:47 PM   #12
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Re: replacing galvanized pipe question


To follow-up on a few other comments:

the schedule 40 that broke was a rare temp of 13-14 degrees and not above 32 for 2-3 days...it was an above ground PVC pipe that fed an old sink in a 1951 shed. I had it insulated too, but this was inside the shed where there was no sun.

As far as any code, there are none here except for septic tanks. however, everything I install is done to spec or above code standards: metal roofing, electrical, plumbing, framing, etc.

I agree 100% on replacing all the galvanized. I am a weekend farmer and to do a complete comprehensive replacement, entails detailed planning, spec'ing all the correct products, sourcing, [hand] digging a lot of trenches, etc. I now have many mature trees and need to dig wisely, along w missing potential 3/4" galvanized lines.

So as far as what I use, it's up to my discretion, but it will be done to include both code+ and to maintain safe drinking standards. I am also prob going to sell the place in next 2-3 yrs after 25 yrs of owning and I want new owners to have top-notch, worry free plumbing. I need to make runs from well to house, "T" in to fed outside shower in garage and one shed as well. I replaced all of older galvanized pipe in orig garage shower w PVC/CPVC along w new heater and insulated all. No breaks w 13 degree weather in this area.

The piping is buried at 12" - 15". I plan on carefully digging out from well to where PVC main line coverts to galvanized. Once I determine all the runs, I am going to dig shorter runs and just leave the galvanized in the ground terminated. Any problems w that, let me know?

Finally, did not see anything specific about the material I should used from 12-16" in ground and then to come up a 20" above ground for faucets. I'm not going to use PVC for this. Galvanized I want to avoid as well if possible. Whatever will be well insulated and I used metal 8" circular metal guards I made to put around insulated faucet pipes so weed-eaters don't chew-up the insulation. I then wrap the rest of the pipe upward w a thinner flexible sheet metal that prevents the insulation from weathering...

PS - Upon doing research, the standards for PVC used for potable water stated they do not use the same chemicals that were originally used and deemed as potentially harmful, thus it's safe. All my piping would be below ground, then up underneath the bottom of the house and thru floor into house. All is insulated about 6-10" below ground when coming up and everything above ground underneath house is insulated. Even when it's hot, it stays fairly cool underneath house.

Again, thank you very much for all your help and advice..it is greatly appreciated-tstex
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