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Old 02-16-2017, 04:57 PM   #1
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Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


Hi all,

I have a 2" galvanized dwv pipe that runs from my lav on the main floor through the ceiling of my basement and then into the drain stack. Due to being galvanized and having little slope over one 6' section of its run, and lots of turns, it has gotten clogged several times over the past years, enough so that sometimes the augers have a lot of trouble getting through.

I am replacing that pipe while doing some other work that necessitated opening up the basement ceiling. I would also like to add a cleanout if possible, as this branch doesn't have one.

I have it all under control besides this 90deg elbow that connects to the vertical riser to the lav. I was hoping to cut the elbow off and put a cleanout tee there, but the joist space around the pipe itself is only 6" which prevents me from cutting the elbow off with any tool I have. My reciprocating saw won't fit. The only hacksaw that will fit is the super tiny kind, and as the pipe I've already cut off is about 3/16" thick it would take a reaaaally long time to cut this elbow off.

See pic.

Should I just be happy with replacing most of the crappy galvanized pipe with abs and shielded couplings and not worry about the elbow? I realized I could add a cleanout a little further along this run where I'd have access in the future, so having a cleanout right at that elbow isn't so important any more.

What do y'all think? Short of buying a Ridgid multitool with that slim reciprocating attachment is there some method I'm not seeing? Should I just leave the elbow?

Thanks!

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Old 02-16-2017, 06:13 PM   #2
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


What does the space between the joists measure?
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:20 PM   #3
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


I think you can get one of these in there. Check with a local rental center.



https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-69982-...in+pipe+cutter
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:00 PM   #4
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


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Originally Posted by Yodaman View Post
What does the space between the joists measure?
It's 6". About 3" on one side of the pipe, 2" of pipe, then another inch of clearance.

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Old 02-16-2017, 07:01 PM   #5
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Yodaman View Post
I think you can get one of these in there. Check with a local rental center.



https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-69982-...in+pipe+cutter
Don't snap cutters only work on cast iron?

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Old 02-16-2017, 08:22 PM   #6
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


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Don't snap cutters only work on cast iron?

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Yea forget that, just re-read and see you have galv., not going to work.


But with a 6" opening recheck the sawzall. Long blade 12", turning it around backwards in the chuck might help.

If no, a saw with rotating handle should help with some clearance
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Old 02-16-2017, 09:05 PM   #7
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


I have had some success using a 4" grinder and a thin cut off wheel. Work it from both sides and it will get most of it.
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:53 AM   #8
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


I do have a grinder and cutoff discs. I love throwing some sparks.

I checked out every reciprocating saw at the orange store and could not find one with rotation ability, but this upside down chuck idea might work, especially with a longer blade and, ya know, angles and stuff.

The question is, is it worth the PITA for an additional 12-14 linear inches of drain pipe that isn't crappy galvanized?

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Old 02-17-2017, 06:25 AM   #9
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


When metal drains fail, its typically at the bottom of a horizontal run, so IMO, if at all possible to cut above the elbow it would be worth it.


You might get lucky, although not likely, but check the possibility of turning the pipe back out. It would be nice to have a threaded connection when it comes time to re-assemble.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:51 AM   #10
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


When in that situation I would use a saws all with a long hack saw blade and bend the blade up by the cut so it is a horizontal clean cut. No biggy.
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Old 02-17-2017, 01:59 PM   #11
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Yodaman View Post
When metal drains fail, its typically at the bottom of a horizontal run, so IMO, if at all possible to cut above the elbow it would be worth it.


You might get lucky, although not likely, but check the possibility of turning the pipe back out. It would be nice to have a threaded connection when it comes time to re-assemble.
Bottom of a horizontal run? This is near the bottom of a vertical run. Maybe I'm not understanding.

I think it is also possible I could unscrew the elbow, especially since I can brace the wrench holding the vertical pipe in the joist bay.

I am pretty sure the idea of a rotating-handle sawzall should do it.

But here's another snag. I don't want to assume this galvanized riser is supported somewhere in the wall or roof and I don't want it falling through the house, so I added some doubled-up clamps to some blocking right below the floor. The potential replacement ABS sweep elbow with cleanout is so tall when you include the flex coupling that it's going to necessitate removing the riser clamps if I want to have enough vertical clearance in the basement bathroom.

Ugh.

As a backup I have a rubber flex sweep elbow with cleanout which is shorter and would let me cut the vertical galvanized pipe lower down, but the idea of having rubber in that position kind of sketches me out.
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Old 02-17-2017, 02:24 PM   #12
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


You might as leave the galvanized in if your planning to run an all rubber fernco. Not legal and asking for a blockage. You have to adapt to galvanized with a proflex band and then use ABS or PVC for your drain. Pitch at 1/4 inch per foot.
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:34 PM   #13
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostmaker View Post
You might as leave the galvanized in if your planning to run an all rubber fernco. Not legal and asking for a blockage. You have to adapt to galvanized with a proflex band and then use ABS or PVC for your drain. Pitch at 1/4 inch per foot.
Sorry, maybe I was unclear:

Option 1: Leave elbow as is, use shielded coupling to ABS, replacing rest of downstream run with ABS.

Option 2: Cut off elbow high up, use shielded coupling to ABS elbow, replace rest of downstream run with ABS.

Option 3: Cut off elbow lower, use unshielded rubber elbow, replace rest of downstream run with ABS.

Sounds like option 3 is the very un-preferred solution.
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:40 PM   #14
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


Option 4: Cut off elbow lower, use shielded coupling, then a non-cleanout ABS elbow, which is shorter than a cleanout one, and put the cleanout 6 feet downstream in an accessible panel.
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:46 PM   #15
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Re: Replacing dwv pipe and joist space issue.


The pipe in your pic looks like cast not galvy.
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