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Old 12-26-2014, 06:16 PM   #16
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Compression joints fail because they can. If you did not get them tight enough. If they failed because of corrosion it just Chinese brass.
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:30 PM   #17
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The only other cause is a restriction of some type down to your tub spout.
To the original poster,

Maybe fill a 5 gallon bucket using the tub's spout for 30 seconds, multiply the volume of water by 2 and see what the flow rate in gallons per minute is. I've read that tub spout flow rate should be 4-7 gallons per minute.

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Old 12-26-2014, 07:48 PM   #18
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Could someone explain the "water saver washers" in new valves?
I was refering to the shower head itself and connector, not in the valve when talking about water saver washers. I don't know of any directly located in the valves themselves. Sorry for any confusion.

Sometimes there is a water restrictor/saver under the washer of the shower head connector or shower head itself, sometimes at both locations. Some people remove them to increase water flow at the output.

For example; The water saver restrictor is the blue color plastic piece which goes under the regular washer. That's what I was refering to.

Last edited by jmon; 12-26-2014 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 12-26-2014, 08:21 PM   #19
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Thanks so much to everyone who has responded. It's greatly appreciated.

First of all, I got a pressure gauge. I have two outside faucets. One is in the rear of the house closest to where the water goes into our house from the meter. The other is on the opposite end in the front. Both read 67(ish?) PSI. So now what? I'm still left wondering about the shower head....? I wish I had the old one to test out just to compare with the new one. And in case you missed it, the tub spout currently has 3/4" from the wall (about 5"-6").

The other thing, I bought 15ft of 1/2" copper piping and double of all the fittings I think I'd need. I think I'll have about 6ft to practice with plus several fittings. And I have an entire day tomorrow with nothing planned (anymore). So if all goes well and with the help of my father, I might be able to go back to copper tomorrow. I also watched several soldering videos.

Any tips, links, and/or resources to try to help me out with soldering would be appreciated.

Also, anymore ideas about the shower head would be great too. It's the Moen shower head that was provided.
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Last edited by oneonesix; 12-26-2014 at 08:25 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:01 PM   #20
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Pressure is fine. No need for pressure reducing valve.

Reread post 14 by eplumber. Hope you get it working the way you want with the copper piping and fittings.

Get a quality copper pipe cutter, and make clean straight cuts and deburr the pipe before prepping.

Last edited by jmon; 12-26-2014 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:45 PM   #21
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Then what you need to do is rebuild the drop to the tub spout. Your water pressure is fine. Did you by chance use teflon tape on your first connection on the spout to the valve?

Soldering is easy. Clean outside of pipe with sand cloth and inside of fitting. Apply flux to both. Put them together. Apply heat to bottom solder to top once you see a drip off bottom remove the heat your done.

All water needs to be gone prior to soldering.

Last edited by Ghostmaker; 12-26-2014 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 12-27-2014, 04:27 AM   #22
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You can solder the pipes right to the mixer valve---far simpler than using a threaded fitting---remove the cartridge before soldering---

If you choose to use a threaded fitting--use dope and tape---solder the pipe to the fitting before installing---cool then install---you must keep the fitting cool with a wet rag when soldering near by---if not--the heating can disturb the connection and cause a leak.---better to solder that connection.
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Old 12-27-2014, 08:17 PM   #23
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Thanks to everyone for your time and help. It's finally finished and fixed. No leaks.....let's hope it stays that way this time. I didn't install valves just because the ones I had served no purpose (other than regulating pressure) since the leak always happened before the valve. Oh, I also left the cpvc that goes up to the shower head so we'll see how long that stays in there. With that said, I only used 5ft of copper.

Interesting part is with full pressure, there is no shower head issue! So that's great. I guess the cpvc was too constricting like some of you said? I tested it all out for about 30 minutes of various pressures and temps and everything was fine.

The soldering part wasn't bad. Like I said, I bought a bunch of extras to practice with. I practiced with about 10 joints before going on to the real job. I have experience welding and using waxes (lost wax casting) so once I got familiar with the way the material moved, it wasn't too bad. Mine still isn't as pretty as some of the videos I watched but I hope it just serves its purpose.

Thanks again everyone and have a great new year!
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:36 AM   #24
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Nice neat work---some folks have a tough time with soldering---your other experience with metals cut your learning curve, just my guess---Mike---
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:54 AM   #25
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dat looka nice
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Old 12-28-2014, 11:52 AM   #26
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Quote:
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Interesting part is with full pressure, there is no shower head issue! So that's great. I guess the cpvc was too constricting like some of you said? I tested it all out for about 30 minutes of various pressures and temps and everything was fine.
Just wondering. Do you now notice that the flow of water from the tub spout is faster/stronger than before?

Thanks,
HRG
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