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Old 12-15-2015, 05:28 PM   #16
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That Patina is just cosmetic. It comes from not wiping all remaining flux off of the lines. If it is not leaking, leave it alone.
That's kind of what I thought as well. What causes it to turn green like that? I do notice that I have very low water pressure could there be build up in the copper pipes? Is there a way to check if build up is in the pipes?

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Old 12-15-2015, 05:29 PM   #17
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Supply lines are in the wall and about 3" off the floor. Could drop ears be used for sink water lines as well?
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Old 12-15-2015, 05:32 PM   #18
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Supply lines are in the wall and about 3" off the floor. Could drop ears be used for sink water lines as well?
No reason you could not use drop ears in the wall and stub out with nipples to threaded stops. Do not us galvanized nipples.
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Old 12-15-2015, 05:34 PM   #19
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To stub out toilet, install PEX drop ear elbow in wall and come out of wall with a chrome nipple.
For got to ask when using a drop dear and chrome nipple do u use teflon tape when u connect the drop ear and the chrome nipple?
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:01 PM   #20
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That's kind of what I thought as well. What causes it to turn green like that? I do notice that I have very low water pressure could there be build up in the copper pipes? Is there a way to check if build up is in the pipes?

Thanks for the reply
It comes from the person who sweated the joints from not cleaning off all remaining flux.

Looks like they got a little overzealous on what they applied. The darker spots are just Flux.

Not leaking, leave it alone. No need to end up with half of a job done a week before Christmas.



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Old 12-15-2015, 08:04 PM   #21
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For got to ask when using a drop dear and chrome nipple do u use teflon tape when u connect the drop ear and the chrome nipple?
Teflon or pipe joint compound. Some will say both but I have never had a problem just using Teflon tape.
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Old 12-15-2015, 09:35 PM   #22
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It comes from the person who sweated the joints from not cleaning off all remaining flux.

Looks like they got a little overzealous on what they applied. The darker spots are just Flux.

Not leaking, leave it alone. No need to end up with half of a job done a week before Christmas.

I was planning on working on it after Christmas and new years. Just trying to do research and ask questions as i can. The water pressure something that is bothering me as well. I did notice that the hot water line is all 1/2" instead being 3/4", then branching 1/2" supply lines to sink & toilets. so back to my; 3. question using 90 degrees elbow on 1/2" pex pipe restrict the flow alot to affect the flow? Could one go with 3/4" with mine lines then 5/8" supply lines?
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:20 AM   #23
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You would only need 3/4" to and from the Water Heater, before it switches to 1/2". Outside faucets should be at least 3/4". 1/2" will drop the pressure really bad if someone is say taking a shower at the same time as running the laundry (Dealt with that way too much, I so much want to change my outside spigot to 3/4").

1/2" to all faucets & toilets. Tub/Shower I would say stick with 3/4".

We all know our homes and the shortcomings that we inherited when we moved in.

I would take a pressure reading at the curb stop & then one at the farthest faucet from where it enters the house and one closest to where the line comes in at the house. That should at least give you a baseline to know how to go on what size of pex and also the shutoff junction that all lines going to all faucets come from. Makes it easier to isolate those faucets you may need to work on, instead of having to deal with crawling into the back of a cabinet, laundry, or with tubs/showers, you end up shutting the whole house off.

The website a lot of people order their PEX stuff from is http://www.supplyhouse.com/?gclid=Cj...Ms1hoCq4jw_wcB



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Old 12-16-2015, 09:43 AM   #24
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You would only need 3/4" to and from the Water Heater, before it switches to 1/2". Outside faucets should be at least 3/4". 1/2" will drop the pressure really bad if someone is say taking a shower at the same time as running the laundry (Dealt with that way too much, I so much want to change my outside spigot to 3/4").

1/2" to all faucets & toilets. Tub/Shower I would say stick with 3/4".

We all know our homes and the shortcomings that we inherited when we moved in.

I would take a pressure reading at the curb stop & then one at the farthest faucet from where it enters the house and one closest to where the line comes in at the house. That should at least give you a baseline to know how to go on what size of pex and also the shutoff junction that all lines going to all faucets come from. Makes it easier to isolate those faucets you may need to work on, instead of having to deal with crawling into the back of a cabinet, laundry, or with tubs/showers, you end up shutting the whole house off.

The website a lot of people order their PEX stuff from is http://www.supplyhouse.com/?gclid=Cj...Ms1hoCq4jw_wcB

I am going to by pas shower an tub spigots for now. After i get everything pex'ed and working i will redo the shower and tub pigot, wife can't handle not taking a shower. I just hope the side shower valves are not solder. Supplyhouse.com is were i plan on buy.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:03 AM   #25
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Get the Manifold and just use a PEX to Copper fitting to connect to the line going to the tub/shower. When you are ready for that, you can cut off the Copper to PEX fitting and put in the fitting to finish the run to the faucet for the tub. That is what I would do if I was going section by section.



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Old 12-16-2015, 10:15 AM   #26
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Get the Manifold and just use a PEX to Copper fitting to connect to the line going to the tub/shower. When you are ready for that, you can cut off the Copper to PEX fitting and put in the fitting to finish the run to the faucet for the tub. That is what I would do if I was going section by section.

Get a manifold, not sure i follow you on this?
that's what i was thinking of doing, Like this link .

Then after i get everything up and running go back to the shower and re plumb like this link.
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