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Old 05-24-2015, 04:14 PM   #1
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New hot water tank no pressure hot side


hello, we are remodeling a house with a well and just got the well up and running now we removed/replaced the electric hot water tank. I filled the tank and ran the hot side for a while to make sure it was full, no power is connected yet. I have awesome pressure on the cold side but if i open a valve further down on the hot it comes out full blast for 2 sec then no pressure what so ever We didint soilder directly on top of the heater but we did at the shut off valves and up but that was 10" or better. is there something im missing?

thanks,
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Old 05-24-2015, 04:29 PM   #2
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does the cold water at that same faucet have a constant (higher) pressure?


does the hot water act like this at all faucets?

if the cold water acts the same, it sounds like your pressure tank is water logged.

if it acts differently at different faucets, then either there is a restriction to the first faucet or if there is no divergence in the lines, there is an obstruction in the common supply line.
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Old 05-24-2015, 05:35 PM   #3
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yes it has a constant high pressure. i have two places and one is a valve the other is a stationary tub and they both act the same, if i close the valve/knob wait about a minute or two then turn it on it comes out with pressure for a sec then barely.
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Old 05-24-2015, 05:48 PM   #4
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are you certain you have good flow INTO the heater? Is there a valve prior to the heater?

are you certain that is not your restriction?

how did you verify you have good flow into the water heater?
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:21 PM   #5
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Old globe or gate valves to shut off the incoming cold water to the heater?
Very common for them to not shut totaly off, gate to get stuck and the shaft unscrew or snap off.
Replace with a ball valve and no more issues.
May or may not be the issue but plumbing 101 calls for removing all the aerators on the faucets when doing major replumbing, opening the any outside faucets first and flushing out any trash, then opening up the faucets.
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:25 PM   #6
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Ok I made a picture of my lines and valves in paint. At the end there are two valves they are where the water tank was we moved it down the line but in the the same pipes we never changed anything just moved it about 6' and havent taken out the pipework yet to the old one yet thats why we can drain so close after the tank as for the stationary tubs there not that far down the line either but well over 6'.
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:29 PM   #7
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A water heater only needs one shut on the incoming cold water line, not even code to have one on the hot side.
Still have not ansewered any of my questions.
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:54 PM   #8
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We are not certain that I have good flow into the heater it comes out of the water tank with lots of pressure there are two shut off valves prior to the heater I am Not sure if that is my restriction however the valve is opened I do not know what kind of water flow we have into the water heater but it sounds fast. by looking at our picture and are set up what do you suggest we do to test this?
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:59 PM   #9
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You are discribing a partial restriction/blockage. If you have good constant cold pressure then I'm thinking all is well with the well system.
The next place I would check is the HW outlet at the tank. Hook a hose to the tank drain and verify good constant flow.
If you do have good flow there, then move to the hot nipple- verify it is not partially restricted with sediment. Some heater nipples have ball checks or flappers internally. Remove the piping to verify the nipple is clear.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
A water heater only needs one shut on the incoming cold water line, not even code to have one on the hot side.
Still have not ansewered any of my questions.
Joe,

It is not against code to have valves on both hot and cold to a WH.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:32 PM   #11
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It sure is here, I got nailed on it for C/O.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:46 PM   #12
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Ok, we will try this tomorrow and post back results. One thing though, when we drain the bottom do you want us to have the well pump on or off?

I also wanted to say the reason for two shut off valves is I run unions below them which make it easy to replace the tank for a new one. Plus there were two there already.

Last edited by oxicottin; 05-24-2015 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 05-25-2015, 11:10 AM   #13
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[QUOTE=TheEplumber;2088249]You are discribing a partial restriction/blockage. If you have good constant cold pressure then I'm thinking all is well with the well system.
The next place I would check is the HW outlet at the tank. Hook a hose to the tank drain and verify good constant flow.
If you do have good flow there, then move to the hot nipple- verify it is not partially restricted with sediment.

Some heater nipples have ball checks or flappers internally. Remove the piping to verify the nipple is clear,
This is most likely your problem, but you also need to install a thermal expansion tank on the cold side after the shut off,
normally on a well tank you might not need one, But since you have shutoffs on both sides it would be a good ideal to install one as you can turn off both valves at same time making it a closed system then when the water heater comes on their is no place for excess pressure to go !

GOOGLE THERMAL EXPANSION IN A CLOSED SYSTEM TO SEE WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT
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Old 05-25-2015, 02:16 PM   #14
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Ok i wont be out to this house untill friday now so friday im draining this thing and taking it back to lowes! Im woried about taking out the nipple, i never did.
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Old 05-25-2015, 04:04 PM   #15
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Reread your initial post, it's a brand new electric water heater you're dealing with, so taking it back for another one sounds like a good idea if you're not comfortable removing the nipples.

If you're still having the same problem with another tank, please post a couple of actual pictures of your existing set-up the next time you go out there. Thanks.

Like eplumber and jerrymac said, most nipples today come pre-installed with plastic or rubber ball checks, flappers or some kind of heat trap. They're suppose to save money by keeping more of the heat in the tank but can collect debris, sediment, and clog easily depending on your type of water. Some plumbers remove them before installation. I don't know if this voids the warantee or not. Just a thought.
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