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Old 12-03-2015, 06:19 PM   #16
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Popeye used to be a plumber!!!!
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rav View Post
OP here. I was able to remove the valve stem, but had no luck finding replacement parts (I went to a plumbing supply store). So I'm still trying to remove the entire valve. I cleaned the connection up and sprayed on Kroil penetrating oil, and tapped on it a few times. After an hour, it still won't budge. I've attached two more pictures. It looks to me like it may not be a nipple between the elbow and the valve, but that the valve has male threads built into it. In other words, it's the valve that is screwed into the elbow. Does it look that way to people here? I'm going to try letting it sit overnight marinating in the Kroil.
I also agree with you rav.

Kroil penetrating oil is good stuff, that should work. Try tapping around the fitting a little. I also have luck with pb blaster and some taps around the fitting. Try tightening first then loosening. Use two big wrenches for better leverage.

Let us know how it worked out for you. Thanks.
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Old 12-04-2015, 05:50 AM   #18
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Give the PO time to work, spray again and wait some more.
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Old 12-04-2015, 06:30 AM   #19
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If the muscle and Kroil doesn't work, I resort to the stuff you get in a can that "freezes" the male end of the connection. Some time spraying the male end connection with that stuff is enough to break it free.
Looks like you did a great job on your clean up and you can assume there is a lot of crud that you cant see. Hopefully the overnight wait will do it.
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Old 12-04-2015, 07:26 AM   #20
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Success!!! I let the penetrating oil sit overnight, and with one big pull the old valve came out easily. (Yes, I used a backup wrench.) I wiped down the inside of the elbow and flushed the line and now it's ready for the new valve. I'm really pleased. Now it's on to the other (hot) valve. Thanks to everyone here for your help and support! / Rav
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Old 12-04-2015, 07:58 AM   #21
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Glad it all worked out for you rav. Thanks for the update.
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Old 12-04-2015, 12:42 PM   #22
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Is the new valve threaded into the elbow far enough?


OP here. I've installed the new valve onto the cold line elbow. I turned it by hand, then wrenched until it got difficult and felt like it wouldn't go any more without going too far, or that it wouldn't go around completely one more time so that the outlet was pointed down. There are no leaks, and the flow is fantastic compared to the old valve. I was concerned, though, when I saw how many more threads there were that were still outside the elbow. In the picture I'm holding up the second new valve so that you can see how far into the elbow the threads went. Is the valve in far enough? Thanks.
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Old 12-04-2015, 01:32 PM   #23
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Did great rav. Excellent, Nice job. . No leaks, no drips, no errors, you win.

Thread depth looks fine to me. Wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 12-04-2015, 04:25 PM   #24
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We need to be careful using tape because of less friction fittings that aren't very malleable can be cracked from the swaging force. In general with tape, satisfactory results is common with much less torque than with some thread dopes.

Count the threads available in the ell fitting shown in your picture and compare to the number of threads that entered in your side by side photo. I suspect the valve was bottomed out in the ell or nearly so.
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Old 12-04-2015, 04:31 PM   #25
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Except for the Teflon instead of dope you done good. If it does not leak it does not matter how many threads show. That looks like about the right amount of threads showing to me.

IMO your old ones were excessively tightened and trying to duplicate that could crack the fitting.
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Old 12-04-2015, 04:44 PM   #26
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The number of threads showing is moot. Even when all our fittings were made in the USA the thread count wasn't a reliable method. Now with the world market I suggest that method be dropped for certain.
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Old 12-04-2015, 08:28 PM   #27
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The brass boiler drain valve will probably last longer than grandma, but...

It's actually better to use a BRONZE body valve in this application. Brass works well on heating systems because it doesn't dezincify the way it does in potable water applications.

For chlorinated water you really should use a valve with a BRONZE body. Brass is made of copper and zinc, and zinc reacts with the chlorine in potable water with the result that the brass "dezincifies", meaning the zinc reacts with the chlorine in the water and causes the brass to turn reddish brown and become weak and crumbly. If you've ever tried to remove a dezincified bibb screw you know what dezincified brass is like.

Bronze is made of copper and tin, and tin isn't nearly as reactive a metal as zinc. Bronze valves are preferred for use in domestic potable water systems. Brass is fine on hot water heating systems.

But, as I said before, even a brass valve will last longer than grandma.
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Last edited by Nestor_Kelebay; 12-04-2015 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 12-05-2015, 03:46 PM   #28
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OP here. Unthreading the old hot valve was more difficult than the cold, since it had been overtightened. Anyway, all done! Thanks again everyone. / Rav
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