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Old 05-28-2015, 11:50 AM   #16
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Go get the flange before you cut the top of the pipe. Once you have it, you will see where you need to cut. If I recall, I didn't cut mine util I had the tile down. Then, I cut flush with the tile.
So cutting flush with the tile didn't leave the pipe (and therefore the flange) too high? I was just thinking it probably wasn't possible to cut the pipe low enough after tiling around it...

Also, it looks like you screwed down the flange through the tile? I'm a bit nervous about that part. How did you go about it?
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:15 PM   #17
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So cutting flush with the tile didn't leave the pipe (and therefore the flange) too high? I was just thinking it probably wasn't possible to cut the pipe low enough after tiling around it...

Also, it looks like you screwed down the flange through the tile? I'm a bit nervous about that part. How did you go about it?
Drill holes in the tile. You are not screwing into the tile...but through it. You need a good subfloor to screw into. In my case, my subfloor is 1 1/8" plywood. I also have blocking underneath for more support.
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:23 PM   #18
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Yep, my subfloor is 1-1/8" too. Curious if yours is a single piece, or 1/2" with 5/8" on top? I need to replace a section of mine that had to be ripped out due to rot from a hidden toilet leak. 1-1/8" thick sheets supposedly exist (Plytanium and Advantech OSB), but I can't find them anywhere locally.
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:45 PM   #19
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Mine is single piece.

If it was me, and your having trouble finding the 1 1/8" sheets....

Cut back 2 different size areas. I would cut a big square on the 1/2" part so that your lined up on your floor joists. I would then cut a bigger hole on the 5/8" that is on top. Say at least one floor joist wider? That way you don't have a common seam for both layers. I think that will give you the most strength with the layers you have.

If you can't get centered on a joist, then sister a board next to it to give you something to nail to.

What I'm not sure of is if you want to glue the two layers together. With enough screws I doubt you would need glue...but my OCD would make me want to use glue unless there was a reason not to....the only reason against might be the added thickness of the glue could prevent the floor from being flat.
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:51 PM   #20
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ddawg16, the glue may not add strength to the maximum carrying capacity of the floor, but it will add stiffness -- i.e., less "give".

I would not use construction adhesive for very flat plywood-to-plywood contact, I'd just use regular old yellow wood glue, or something like Gorilla Glue. (The construction adhesive is better when you have two irregular surfaces such as bowed or twisted dimensional lumber.)
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:53 PM   #21
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The current two layers do appear to have been glued (they were difficult to separate, and it wasn't because of the nails). If I can't find any 1-1/8" sheets, I'll glue and screw 1/2" and 5/8" sheets.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 05-28-2015, 04:19 PM   #22
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Make sure you use primer and glue on all joints. Pipe must remain PVC.
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